Need some info on N2O PlZ!!!
Need some info on N2O PlZ!!! I have a 2000 SS with 155k on it. Was wondering what kit I should get, Wet, or Dry. Don't know the difference between the two and wich one works better. I want to run a 150 shot in it, and my car is pretty much my DD. Also where would the best place be to get a set up that is, not so much the cheapest, but not real expensive. Thanks.
I'll give the typical LS1Tech answer of "Do a search."
To answer your questions though...
1. The difference between Wet and Dry is that Wet injects extra fuel with the nitrous through the nitrous nozzle. Wet means that you don't have to mess with your fuel injectors and you really only have to pulling timing. With a Dry Kit you have to tune the fuel injectors to spray more fuel to compensate for the nitrous. Neither is "better" in producing power, but a lot of people say Wet is better for beginners.
2. Nitrous Outlet has really good prices (cheapest out there) and their products still retain good quality. Some people like Harris Speed Works too. Both are sponsors on here.
Hope that was helpful
To answer your questions though...
1. The difference between Wet and Dry is that Wet injects extra fuel with the nitrous through the nitrous nozzle. Wet means that you don't have to mess with your fuel injectors and you really only have to pulling timing. With a Dry Kit you have to tune the fuel injectors to spray more fuel to compensate for the nitrous. Neither is "better" in producing power, but a lot of people say Wet is better for beginners.
2. Nitrous Outlet has really good prices (cheapest out there) and their products still retain good quality. Some people like Harris Speed Works too. Both are sponsors on here.
Hope that was helpful
wet is the best imo, but you could argue with somebody about that all day.. Id wait til christmas to buy, it looks like some kits might be on sale and you should look at buying a wet plate kit. Look into safety things, I prefer using a wideband and hsw microedge controller. It will shut nitrous off if too lean or rich, it acts as a window switch, and wot switch. Do a search on it, its well worth the money.
you also want to pull a little timing out and use colder spark plugs. i run colder tr6 plugs with a 150 shot but that is advised against as most guys who know their stuff will suggest an even colder non-projected plug for that size shot.
when tuning for it, you also need to read the plugs which involves shutting the car down right at the end of a nitrous run and pulling the plugs out. if you don't do this, even if you have no audible pinging or knock registering through your knock sensors (while scanning the PCM) and a wideband tells you your overall air fuel ratio is perfect, you could still end up blowing your motor as you would be oblivious to what could be going on in each individual cylinder (such as one may be running too hot, too rich, or too lean). lots of guys don't do this and say they have no problems, but they are leaving it up to chance and you get the occaisional blown motor thread.
when tuning for it, you also need to read the plugs which involves shutting the car down right at the end of a nitrous run and pulling the plugs out. if you don't do this, even if you have no audible pinging or knock registering through your knock sensors (while scanning the PCM) and a wideband tells you your overall air fuel ratio is perfect, you could still end up blowing your motor as you would be oblivious to what could be going on in each individual cylinder (such as one may be running too hot, too rich, or too lean). lots of guys don't do this and say they have no problems, but they are leaving it up to chance and you get the occaisional blown motor thread.
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i dont exactly understand the argument for using a wet kit for our cars. My opinion is add air where air supposed to go and add fuel where fuel is supposed to go. Makes sense to me. But you do have to usually upgrade your fuel when you run a dry so it can cost more to set it up. My advise to you would be dont buy anything for a few months and do tons of reading then make a decision
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Verdad Gallardo Wow I guess there's is alot more to it then just going out and buying one. Lol go figure.
So I read a thread a while back about a GTO bowing it's motor on N2O, I'm sure just about everybody read that thread. But also someone said about tuning a duel noid set up so if one noid fails then the back up one shuts it off. Now is a noid set up with a wet kit, or a dry kit, or both?
Also what if I run a methenol kit to keep it from spark knocking?
Thanks again forthe info guys you are a big help.
So I read a thread a while back about a GTO bowing it's motor on N2O, I'm sure just about everybody read that thread. But also someone said about tuning a duel noid set up so if one noid fails then the back up one shuts it off. Now is a noid set up with a wet kit, or a dry kit, or both?
Also what if I run a methenol kit to keep it from spark knocking?
Thanks again forthe info guys you are a big help.
Wow I guess there's is alot more to it then just going out and buying one. Lol go figure.
So I read a thread a while back about a GTO bowing it's motor on N2O, I'm sure just about everybody read that thread. But also someone said about tuning a duel noid set up so if one noid fails then the back up one shuts it off. Now is a noid set up with a wet kit, or a dry kit, or both?
Also what if I run a methenol kit to keep it from spark knocking?
Thanks again forthe info guys you are a big help.
So I read a thread a while back about a GTO bowing it's motor on N2O, I'm sure just about everybody read that thread. But also someone said about tuning a duel noid set up so if one noid fails then the back up one shuts it off. Now is a noid set up with a wet kit, or a dry kit, or both?
Also what if I run a methenol kit to keep it from spark knocking?
Thanks again forthe info guys you are a big help.
Nick