I run 8's now. I ran TR6's before and my car seems to run a little better on the 8's for whatever reason. I do see idle issues once in a while but nothing major.

 

I'm curious to see what my tr6's look like. I got a year and a half out of them without issues, went through prob 15 bottles and 6k miles without issues

 

This is just stupid IMO. Plugs are $1.50, change them more. You're asking for problems.

 

so you use nitrous and you dont check your plugs???
you sir are lucky.
how do you know the tune up is good?

 

I pulled the plugs first few times and didnt see any problems. After that just kept an eye on af ratio. Havent sprayed in the past 1k miles and thats when the plan was to change then but got sent on a deployment. I'll be pulling them when i get back as planned. I'll show you how nice they look

 

did you guys ever factor in that moving away from a projected tip plug will be same to dropping 1 full heat range in any given plug.
so this would mean moving from a TR6 (-6) heat range to a BR7 (-7) is actually a (-8).

 

So does this mean if you run the 3177 non projected instead of 4177 would that be same as a heat range 7?

 

thats what im trying to clear up, if ngk actually considers this in their scale. im leaning toward no, so kierstyn you would be correct. i want to figure out if the projected and non-projected use their "own" scale.

according to what ive always known kierstyn the 3177 would be a step colder from the 4177

 

good question.
a tr6 and a br7ef is not a direct comparison.
a tr6 and a br6ef would be a better show.
not sure how the heat range differs between the two.
as noted, the projected tip gets hot as ****, so the non projected couold be "considered" cooler seeing its out of harms way.

 

i dont know people recommending anyone that is using the TR6, that hasnt yet experienced issues, to go straight to the br7ef.

i would think a h/c car with <100rw pill would be ideal with a br6ef

 

Don't mean to hijack, but on the advice of this thread, I picked up some BR6EF's to run with my measly 100 shot, and want to know what gap is best.

Mostly track running, with some street driving interspersed.

Are these halfway decent to run on the street as a DD plug?

 

That's because you're only spraying a 100 shot and probably rich too. You should still put a 7 in there for a piece of mind and you might even pick up with a colder plug. If you ever decide to spray 150+, go a step or two colder, along with pulling some timing. Your car will really fly with the nano then!

 

dont see why you couldnt DD a br6ef plug. the gap comes a lil tight on them at .028-.029. i talked to a tech at ngk and he said not to gap them more than .035 that it would pull the electrode off the center of the ground strap.
i usually do mine around .032
i dont have efi, idle can be more rough with the br series of plugs.

 

thats the plan when get back. bought a crap load of suspension stuff, 227/231 .614/.617 110+2 cam, doing heads, intake, new stall/tranny rebuild, rear and 150 shot. Should be a fun car then

 

I think a better way to put this, if I understand you correctly. The TR6 vs the BR6 in a sprayed car only, would equal going one step colder of the same reach electrode. So this is why they still rate the same heat range on the scale #6, for n/a applications. They are targeting different heads like FOMOCO vs GM, just as an example. But in the sprayed world, the same heat range plugs, one with a shorter tip would act like a colder plug due to the fact that it can expel the heat faster. Does this make sense? I know what I mean, but not sure I explained it so as to be understandable, LOL.
Robert

 

There is a dedicated gaping tool that will not tweak things out of whack. Depending on size shot, we can open them up a bit from the factory approx .028/.030 gap they come with. If we get it to wide, it may blow out due to the increased cylinder pressure. Your NGK technician should have explained that they gap tight from the factory due to having the correct tool? So it should be fine if they are gaping them, and not us? Try gaping the stock plugs to .028 and you will quickly see that the ground strap is not square to the electrode any longer. Why? Basic geometry tells us that one pivot point is messing the gap angle up. That is where the correct tool comes into play, and actually bends the ground strap in numerous spots all at the same time resulting in a squared off ground strap over the electrode. I am trying to find a picture of the gaping tool.

Some guys that run dedicated nitrous drag cars actually cut the ground strap back right to the edge of the electrode. They due this to have even faster heat transfer. Now will this cause other issues? I don't know, as I have never done it personally, but certainly think about it from time to time. I will see if I can find the picture of this.
Robert

 

Another area to check when trying to figure your tune is the location of the fuel ring. Just take a die-grinder and remove the threads by cutting carefully around the plug. You can also just use a hack saw as that works fine, it just takes a little longer.

Do you guys want to get into this part of the plugs? I have been working on an article for a few years and gathering data, and have a rough draft on the fuel ring. Well I have other areas covered too if moving to another area of reading the plug would be helpful after this area? its' mostly insight that allows anyone to tune via their own plugs...

Robert

 

i understand you robert.
while that plug looks great for a tune up to me, some others would disagree and say you could go a jet leaner.

there is tons of good(and bad) info over on yellow bullet in the nitrous section on plugs and plug readings.

 

At a 150 shot would the br6s be better than the 7s or go straight to the 7s?

 

lets say we have a car that would be fine with a br6 but there is a br7. what is the tradeoff here? 3-5hp 2mpg fouling plugs?