projected vs non-projected plugs
#101
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My fukin head is spinning after all this. What plug should I use on my daily driven heads/cam, full bolt on and 150 dry shot ls1? Mods in the sig and I currently have the tr6's in there but have not sprayed it yet. I'm filling the bottle tomorrow and NEED TO KNOW!!!
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Ok so Im a little confused here. I will be spraying a 75shot dry to start with, but when I bought my hsw dry plate kit, hsw said the tr6 would be fine. I have not installed the tr6's yet, but Im thinkin I should of bought the bref7's? The car is 95% street driven and will not be sprayed alot, so Im assuming thats why hsw said the tr6's are ok? I don't want to blow S**T up so I am all ears! Oh and sorry op, not trying to hijack!
now dont get me wrong i certainly agree with Wayne, Robert, baked and everyone else, a non-projected tip plug is more ideal for nitrous use. I have always said that and have always backed that up with actual technical posts demonstrating why its ideal. BUT in YOUR circumstance a TR6 is perctly fine, it has been for 10 years now and that isnt going to change.
#105
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He said that he wanted to spray 75 "to start with".... No why not just put some br6's in it so that when he does decide to up the shot (we both know he will) he won't have to change plugs again?
I'm not trying to start an argument with you Mike, You guys are actually my favorite of the nitrous sponsors on here.
I'm not trying to start an argument with you Mike, You guys are actually my favorite of the nitrous sponsors on here.
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He said that he wanted to spray 75 "to start with".... No why not just put some br6's in it so that when he does decide to up the shot (we both know he will) he won't have to change plugs again?
I'm not trying to start an argument with you Mike, You guys are actually my favorite of the nitrous sponsors on here.
I'm not trying to start an argument with you Mike, You guys are actually my favorite of the nitrous sponsors on here.
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I was merely defending the advice he was given, which other people make out to be bad advice. He was basically questioning why we would tell him to use the TR6.
You do bring up a good point, but i dont know what he plans to move up too. A move up to a 150 and i would be recommending the BR7EF so he would be changing plugs again anyway. On a stock motor the TR6 has proved thousands of times to be the plug of choice on smaller shots. I dont recommend it but we both know guys go up to 175 -200 with no problems. I limit the TR6 to around 100-125 on a stock motor. Which is the same range i would give you for the BR6EF.
to me it was just a matter of a TR6 being perfectly fine for his current application and there would be no need to run out to by BR6's and sell the TR6's
#108
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well you're my least favorite member
lol jk
I was merely defending the advice he was given, which other people make out to be bad advice. He was basically questioning why we would tell him to use the TR6.
You do bring up a good point, but i dont know what he plans to move up too. A move up to a 150 and i would be recommending the BR7EF so he would be changing plugs again anyway. On a stock motor the TR6 has proved thousands of times to be the plug of choice on smaller shots. I dont recommend it but we both know guys go up to 175 -200 with no problems. I limit the TR6 to around 100-125 on a stock motor. Which is the same range i would give you for the BR6EF.
to me it was just a matter of a TR6 being perfectly fine for his current application and there would be no need to run out to by BR6's and sell the TR6's
![Engarde](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies3/engarde.gif)
I was merely defending the advice he was given, which other people make out to be bad advice. He was basically questioning why we would tell him to use the TR6.
You do bring up a good point, but i dont know what he plans to move up too. A move up to a 150 and i would be recommending the BR7EF so he would be changing plugs again anyway. On a stock motor the TR6 has proved thousands of times to be the plug of choice on smaller shots. I dont recommend it but we both know guys go up to 175 -200 with no problems. I limit the TR6 to around 100-125 on a stock motor. Which is the same range i would give you for the BR6EF.
to me it was just a matter of a TR6 being perfectly fine for his current application and there would be no need to run out to by BR6's and sell the TR6's
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I dont plan on spraying more than 100-125 shot in the near future. Thats until the funds become available for the fuel system upgrades and stall. So Im perfectly content with the 75-125 shot range for this season and possibly next. Again this is just a sleeper street car... My main concern is getting familiar with the setup, getting the tune right, and not blowing anything up! Thanks for the input guys. Mike, I have been reading the install manuals for the dry plate/interface/microedge like it's a bible. Been doing a little here and there as far as the install goes. I have been nothing but impressed with how well this setup is put together. Hurry up spring lol!
Thanks for the compliments and im just as impressed with you as well. Most guys rip the kit open and start throwing parts in the car, then proceed to make fifty posts asking what to do now. It's great to see someone take the time and get a strong understanding of how nitrous works, but how the system as a whole will interact with each other and essentially wire up together. Great job.
#110
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Thanks Mike! I will go ahead and use the tr6's for the 75 shot since I already have them. When I up the shot Ill switch to bref7's. been down that road when I was younger with buying parts and throwing them on with out having a clue. I found that out the hard way with my 96z when i bought a p1sc procharger kit back in 02'. I just started boltin **** up with out taking the time to read and understand what the hell im doin lol. 90% of the problem was the kit was junk tho, anyways I really don't want to make that mistake this time around lol. Live and learn ya know...
#111
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we just started with the plug stuff, but yea we have prolly 6-7 sets of 7's in the trailer with 1-2 passes on them and then 3 brand new sets of 8s in the trailer right now as well. Our local store has the 8's for 1.69 a piece and I can get 200 at a time or the next day, compared to the 7s which they charge 2.49. 8's for me all day. haha.
#113
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I tune quite a few of these LSx cars myself and I do like a non projected plug for nitrous apps but the TR6 is not at all a "bad" plug for these things. I know they arent as good as say a BR6 or 7 but they still arent going to blow a head/cam stock bottom LS1 on a 150 shot either if it's tuned right. The run in my sig is a 6.0L LQ4 with stock 5.3 heads with LS1 valves using TR6's on a NX shark nozzle wet 150 shot. The plugs looked awsome so I use them. I'm sure I could gain a little more safety with a colder plug or a non-projected plug but the tune was also taken into consideration with using the TR6 as well. I'm not running it any richer to be safe cause thats not the right way and sometimes richer can be worse than lean. I like to keep my afr leaner than alot of people like in the mid 12's, then control the heat with the timing. From my experiences these LSx motors don't like rich afr mixtures on spray. I did have quite a bit of timing pulled and worked my way up to where I'm at now. I'm running right at 22.5-23* timing on that setup. I started out right around 20. The car picked up some good mph by adding the timing to where it is now. Seems like alot compared to alot of setups but the 5.3 heads arent that efficient and thats why I think it likes a little more timing than a normal LS6 headed engine.
Not really arguing with you all cause there are alot of good tips in this thread but I'm just stating that the TR6's arent nearly as bad as what everyone in this thread are portraying them to be. But for someone that doesn't tune there own car and has a good knowledge of whats going on then by all means a non-projected plug in the correct heat range will add some safety factor to the setup. I'm going to try the BR7's in this car this spring to see how it reacts. I'm hoping I can get a little more aggressive with the tuneup and pull my trap speeds up and ET down some more on the same shot.
Not really arguing with you all cause there are alot of good tips in this thread but I'm just stating that the TR6's arent nearly as bad as what everyone in this thread are portraying them to be. But for someone that doesn't tune there own car and has a good knowledge of whats going on then by all means a non-projected plug in the correct heat range will add some safety factor to the setup. I'm going to try the BR7's in this car this spring to see how it reacts. I'm hoping I can get a little more aggressive with the tuneup and pull my trap speeds up and ET down some more on the same shot.
#116
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I tune quite a few of these LSx cars myself and I do like a non projected plug for nitrous apps but the TR6 is not at all a "bad" plug for these things. I know they arent as good as say a BR6 or 7 but they still arent going to blow a head/cam stock bottom LS1 on a 150 shot either if it's tuned right. The run in my sig is a 6.0L LQ4 with stock 5.3 heads with LS1 valves using TR6's on a NX shark nozzle wet 150 shot. The plugs looked awsome so I use them. I'm sure I could gain a little more safety with a colder plug or a non-projected plug but the tune was also taken into consideration with using the TR6 as well. I'm not running it any richer to be safe cause thats not the right way and sometimes richer can be worse than lean. I like to keep my afr leaner than alot of people like in the mid 12's, then control the heat with the timing. From my experiences these LSx motors don't like rich afr mixtures on spray. I did have quite a bit of timing pulled and worked my way up to where I'm at now. I'm running right at 22.5-23* timing on that setup. I started out right around 20. The car picked up some good mph by adding the timing to where it is now. Seems like alot compared to alot of setups but the 5.3 heads arent that efficient and thats why I think it likes a little more timing than a normal LS6 headed engine.
Not really arguing with you all cause there are alot of good tips in this thread but I'm just stating that the TR6's arent nearly as bad as what everyone in this thread are portraying them to be. But for someone that doesn't tune there own car and has a good knowledge of whats going on then by all means a non-projected plug in the correct heat range will add some safety factor to the setup. I'm going to try the BR7's in this car this spring to see how it reacts. I'm hoping I can get a little more aggressive with the tuneup and pull my trap speeds up and ET down some more on the same shot.
Not really arguing with you all cause there are alot of good tips in this thread but I'm just stating that the TR6's arent nearly as bad as what everyone in this thread are portraying them to be. But for someone that doesn't tune there own car and has a good knowledge of whats going on then by all means a non-projected plug in the correct heat range will add some safety factor to the setup. I'm going to try the BR7's in this car this spring to see how it reacts. I'm hoping I can get a little more aggressive with the tuneup and pull my trap speeds up and ET down some more on the same shot.
Like I said, I trust your tuning abilities and I know that you know what you are doing, I'd just hate to see you hurt your new setup. If you are just going off what your wideband is telling you then you are leaving ALOT on the table. Just my .02
#117
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I tune quite a few of these LSx cars myself and I do like a non projected plug for nitrous apps but the TR6 is not at all a "bad" plug for these things. I know they arent as good as say a BR6 or 7 but they still arent going to blow a head/cam stock bottom LS1 on a 150 shot either if it's tuned right. The run in my sig is a 6.0L LQ4 with stock 5.3 heads with LS1 valves using TR6's on a NX shark nozzle wet 150 shot. The plugs looked awsome so I use them. I'm sure I could gain a little more safety with a colder plug or a non-projected plug but the tune was also taken into consideration with using the TR6 as well. I'm not running it any richer to be safe cause thats not the right way and sometimes richer can be worse than lean. I like to keep my afr leaner than alot of people like in the mid 12's, then control the heat with the timing. From my experiences these LSx motors don't like rich afr mixtures on spray. I did have quite a bit of timing pulled and worked my way up to where I'm at now. I'm running right at 22.5-23* timing on that setup. I started out right around 20. The car picked up some good mph by adding the timing to where it is now. Seems like alot compared to alot of setups but the 5.3 heads arent that efficient and thats why I think it likes a little more timing than a normal LS6 headed engine.
Not really arguing with you all cause there are alot of good tips in this thread but I'm just stating that the TR6's arent nearly as bad as what everyone in this thread are portraying them to be. But for someone that doesn't tune there own car and has a good knowledge of whats going on then by all means a non-projected plug in the correct heat range will add some safety factor to the setup.
Not really arguing with you all cause there are alot of good tips in this thread but I'm just stating that the TR6's arent nearly as bad as what everyone in this thread are portraying them to be. But for someone that doesn't tune there own car and has a good knowledge of whats going on then by all means a non-projected plug in the correct heat range will add some safety factor to the setup.
I doubt all your plugs look good. Hell all of our plugs dont look good most times.
We pull every plug every pass so I have seen ALOT of plugs in the past 3 years.
I'd like to see pics of these TR6 plugs that "good" or "fine" or "OK"
If your using a TR6 on a 150 shot H/C car I bet you dont know what your looking at to even say that wether or not its "good"
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