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Nitrous Guru's come on in
I have a built LS3(forged Weisco pistons, Manley rods, Callies crank) with the following:
NO Plate
NO Dedicated Fuel(103 octane)
NO Progressive
BRFE7
We want to spray a 200 shot with the 7's(plugs) and switch to the 9's(plugs) for the 300 shot. Would that be OK.
Also, since we are using 103 in the dedicated can we get away with not pulling 2 degrees per 50 shot.
Would we have to run race gas in the tank also for the 300 shot?
What should the a/f be on the spray?
Thanks, for your input/advice.
NO Plate
NO Dedicated Fuel(103 octane)
NO Progressive
BRFE7
We want to spray a 200 shot with the 7's(plugs) and switch to the 9's(plugs) for the 300 shot. Would that be OK.
Also, since we are using 103 in the dedicated can we get away with not pulling 2 degrees per 50 shot.
Would we have to run race gas in the tank also for the 300 shot?
What should the a/f be on the spray?
Thanks, for your input/advice.
#3
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I'm on my phone so please bear with me. I'd run atleast an 8 on 200 maybe 9 and atleast a 9 on 300 probably a 10. For saftey ofcourse.
I'd pull more timing then needed and then creep it back in based on the plugs you will be able to run more timing with a higher octane before it detonates but who k owe how much, the plugs will tell you.
Yes I'd run the highest octane in both tanks on the 300. Remeber when you have 103 in one and 91 in the other they mix and become a lot lower then that 103 thus introducing detonation.
Also watch distribution sprayng that much through the front of the intake no matter who's plate you have on there.
I'd pull more timing then needed and then creep it back in based on the plugs you will be able to run more timing with a higher octane before it detonates but who k owe how much, the plugs will tell you.
Yes I'd run the highest octane in both tanks on the 300. Remeber when you have 103 in one and 91 in the other they mix and become a lot lower then that 103 thus introducing detonation.
Also watch distribution sprayng that much through the front of the intake no matter who's plate you have on there.
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I would put the 9's in and be done with it but I was told they are hard to tune for a DD so I thought I would use the 7's for 200 and lower and the 9's for 200-300.
So race gas in the cars tank is a must on the 300 shot or would 91 in the tank and 110/C12 in the dedicated be ok with less timing?
So race gas in the cars tank is a must on the 300 shot or would 91 in the tank and 110/C12 in the dedicated be ok with less timing?
#5
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I would put the 9's in and be done with it but I was told they are hard to tune for a DD so I thought I would use the 7's for 200 and lower and the 9's for 200-300.
So race gas in the cars tank is a must on the 300 shot or would 91 in the tank and 110/C12 in the dedicated be ok with less timing?
So race gas in the cars tank is a must on the 300 shot or would 91 in the tank and 110/C12 in the dedicated be ok with less timing?
You could do that and I have known people who do that, im just warning you that the absolute best way to go about it would be to run it in both so you arent guessing what/if your octane is enough. But that is your decision.
#6
FormerVendor
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Tricky making a suggestion on what plug with out all the information here. First the smart thing to concider is what spark plug you need naturaly asperated before you can determain what plug you need on the juice.
If your car is still around the stock compression range or just alittle over using a number 7 plug with a concervative tune on the juice would be ok up to 200. You would be hitting the point that going to a number 8 would not hurt. Reading the coloring on the strap of the spark plug and looking for blistering would tell you if the number 7 is to hot. From my experience of tunning many many many nitrous LSX based cars on a mildly modified application 200 is safe but the max with a number 7.
If your motor is a big power making combo with good compression a number 8 plug would be your only option to start with for a 200 shot and odds are you may bennifit with a 7 on motor.. Again reading the strap will tell you.
For a 300 shot a number 9 is a deffinate.
If the car is properly tuned N/A on what ever plug you plan on using drivability will be fine.
The 2 per 50 is a starting point but not written in stone. For one from what I have noticed the LS3 does not like alot of timing to start with. On a 200 shot I would start by pulling 10 degrees and on a 300 I would start by pulling 14 to 16. Reading the strap on the spark plug will also tell you where your timing mark is and weather you can roll timing back into it or if you need to stay or remove some. Do not tune according to knock retard.
Also as you move up in the power range Octain is important.
Dave
If your car is still around the stock compression range or just alittle over using a number 7 plug with a concervative tune on the juice would be ok up to 200. You would be hitting the point that going to a number 8 would not hurt. Reading the coloring on the strap of the spark plug and looking for blistering would tell you if the number 7 is to hot. From my experience of tunning many many many nitrous LSX based cars on a mildly modified application 200 is safe but the max with a number 7.
If your motor is a big power making combo with good compression a number 8 plug would be your only option to start with for a 200 shot and odds are you may bennifit with a 7 on motor.. Again reading the strap will tell you.
For a 300 shot a number 9 is a deffinate.
If the car is properly tuned N/A on what ever plug you plan on using drivability will be fine.
The 2 per 50 is a starting point but not written in stone. For one from what I have noticed the LS3 does not like alot of timing to start with. On a 200 shot I would start by pulling 10 degrees and on a 300 I would start by pulling 14 to 16. Reading the strap on the spark plug will also tell you where your timing mark is and weather you can roll timing back into it or if you need to stay or remove some. Do not tune according to knock retard.
Also as you move up in the power range Octain is important.
Dave
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The cr is 10.4 and it made 430-470 hp depending on what dyno I was on at the time, lol.
A/F was 12:8-13:0 N/A and 10's on the spray(200 shot) although it started in the 9's. We jetted it down from the 46 to a 41 and it still rich. We ran out of nitrous and air in the NANO. I will be back on the dyno tomorrow with the 38 in the fuel side and the same 78 in the nitrous side.
JFYI, I dynoed 460 hp on a DynoMite with an A/F of 12.8 but it only put down 428 hp on a DynoJet with an A/F of 12.1 on the same tune. We dialed in the tune a little more and went up to 440 hp on the same DynoJet.
Today it put down 432 hp on a DynaPak with a 12.8-13.0 with the same tune from the DynoJet. With the 200 shot it put down 600 hp but with a 10 A/F.
A/F was 12:8-13:0 N/A and 10's on the spray(200 shot) although it started in the 9's. We jetted it down from the 46 to a 41 and it still rich. We ran out of nitrous and air in the NANO. I will be back on the dyno tomorrow with the 38 in the fuel side and the same 78 in the nitrous side.
JFYI, I dynoed 460 hp on a DynoMite with an A/F of 12.8 but it only put down 428 hp on a DynoJet with an A/F of 12.1 on the same tune. We dialed in the tune a little more and went up to 440 hp on the same DynoJet.
Today it put down 432 hp on a DynaPak with a 12.8-13.0 with the same tune from the DynoJet. With the 200 shot it put down 600 hp but with a 10 A/F.
#9
FormerVendor
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The cr is 10.4 and it made 430-470 hp depending on what dyno I was on at the time, lol.
A/F was 12:8-13:0 N/A and 10's on the spray(200 shot) although it started in the 9's. We jetted it down from the 46 to a 41 and it still rich. We ran out of nitrous and air in the NANO. I will be back on the dyno tomorrow with the 38 in the fuel side and the same 78 in the nitrous side.
JFYI, I dynoed 460 hp on a DynoMite with an A/F of 12.8 but it only put down 428 hp on a DynoJet with an A/F of 12.1 on the same tune. We dialed in the tune a little more and went up to 440 hp on the same DynoJet.
Today it put down 432 hp on a DynaPak with a 12.8-13.0 with the same tune from the DynoJet. With the 200 shot it put down 600 hp but with a 10 A/F.
A/F was 12:8-13:0 N/A and 10's on the spray(200 shot) although it started in the 9's. We jetted it down from the 46 to a 41 and it still rich. We ran out of nitrous and air in the NANO. I will be back on the dyno tomorrow with the 38 in the fuel side and the same 78 in the nitrous side.
JFYI, I dynoed 460 hp on a DynoMite with an A/F of 12.8 but it only put down 428 hp on a DynoJet with an A/F of 12.1 on the same tune. We dialed in the tune a little more and went up to 440 hp on the same DynoJet.
Today it put down 432 hp on a DynaPak with a 12.8-13.0 with the same tune from the DynoJet. With the 200 shot it put down 600 hp but with a 10 A/F.
Deffintly need to keep going down on the fuel pill. Unless you plan on pulling plugs after passes and monituring the tune up all the time I would shoot for a 11.8 airfuel.
AT the compression you are at I would not be afraid of using a number 7 as long as you pull the plug and use a magnifier and look at the strap for blistering. If you want to avoid that just throw an 8 in there and roll with it.
Dave
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The cr is 10.4 and it made 430-470 hp depending on what dyno I was on at the time, lol.
A/F was 12:8-13:0 N/A and 10's on the spray(200 shot) although it started in the 9's. We jetted it down from the 46 to a 41 and it still rich. We ran out of nitrous and air in the NANO. I will be back on the dyno tomorrow with the 38 in the fuel side and the same 78 in the nitrous side.
JFYI, I dynoed 460 hp on a DynoMite with an A/F of 12.8 but it only put down 428 hp on a DynoJet with an A/F of 12.1 on the same tune. We dialed in the tune a little more and went up to 440 hp on the same DynoJet.
Today it put down 432 hp on a DynaPak with a 12.8-13.0 with the same tune from the DynoJet. With the 200 shot it put down 600 hp but with a 10 A/F.
A/F was 12:8-13:0 N/A and 10's on the spray(200 shot) although it started in the 9's. We jetted it down from the 46 to a 41 and it still rich. We ran out of nitrous and air in the NANO. I will be back on the dyno tomorrow with the 38 in the fuel side and the same 78 in the nitrous side.
JFYI, I dynoed 460 hp on a DynoMite with an A/F of 12.8 but it only put down 428 hp on a DynoJet with an A/F of 12.1 on the same tune. We dialed in the tune a little more and went up to 440 hp on the same DynoJet.
Today it put down 432 hp on a DynaPak with a 12.8-13.0 with the same tune from the DynoJet. With the 200 shot it put down 600 hp but with a 10 A/F.
#11
9 Second Club
iTrader: (21)
The cr is 10.4 and it made 430-470 hp depending on what dyno I was on at the time, lol.
A/F was 12:8-13:0 N/A and 10's on the spray(200 shot) although it started in the 9's. We jetted it down from the 46 to a 41 and it still rich. We ran out of nitrous and air in the NANO. I will be back on the dyno tomorrow with the 38 in the fuel side and the same 78 in the nitrous side.
JFYI, I dynoed 460 hp on a DynoMite with an A/F of 12.8 but it only put down 428 hp on a DynoJet with an A/F of 12.1 on the same tune. We dialed in the tune a little more and went up to 440 hp on the same DynoJet.
Today it put down 432 hp on a DynaPak with a 12.8-13.0 with the same tune from the DynoJet. With the 200 shot it put down 600 hp but with a 10 A/F.
A/F was 12:8-13:0 N/A and 10's on the spray(200 shot) although it started in the 9's. We jetted it down from the 46 to a 41 and it still rich. We ran out of nitrous and air in the NANO. I will be back on the dyno tomorrow with the 38 in the fuel side and the same 78 in the nitrous side.
JFYI, I dynoed 460 hp on a DynoMite with an A/F of 12.8 but it only put down 428 hp on a DynoJet with an A/F of 12.1 on the same tune. We dialed in the tune a little more and went up to 440 hp on the same DynoJet.
Today it put down 432 hp on a DynaPak with a 12.8-13.0 with the same tune from the DynoJet. With the 200 shot it put down 600 hp but with a 10 A/F.
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What nitrous pill do you currently have in it?
Deffintly need to keep going down on the fuel pill. Unless you plan on pulling plugs after passes and monituring the tune up all the time I would shoot for a 11.8 airfuel.
AT the compression you are at I would not be afraid of using a number 7 as long as you pull the plug and use a magnifier and look at the strap for blistering. If you want to avoid that just throw an 8 in there and roll with it.
Dave
Deffintly need to keep going down on the fuel pill. Unless you plan on pulling plugs after passes and monituring the tune up all the time I would shoot for a 11.8 airfuel.
AT the compression you are at I would not be afraid of using a number 7 as long as you pull the plug and use a magnifier and look at the strap for blistering. If you want to avoid that just throw an 8 in there and roll with it.
Dave
BTW, the plugs were gapped to .028 at least the #1(easiest to get to) was.