JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

I've been reading that I should use a relay to wire my bottle heater like in this picture here.

https://www.holley.com/data/Products.../199R10309.pdf

However, I can't see what difference it would make just wiring it like this (please excuse the pathetic artwork).

Chris@NitroDaves

Not all heaters are the same but most pull a good amount of amps.

Our Brand X heater Specs
13.8 Volts, 300 Watts, 21.74 Amps


Nitrous Outlet heater
225 Watts, 13 Volts, 17.31 Amps.


I would use a realy before you burn something up

Hope this helps

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

so what you're saying is that if my power source can support the current I should be ok with my diagram?

Thanks for the response.

jeepers_88

iTrader: (13)

you'll probably melt your switch, even if you use big enough wires, most switches for automotive use usually are not built to take that kind of current continuosly

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

I've heard that before but I've also heard that's not true. Either way I've been told the power drop in my car shouldn't be used for that much amperage, so I've use the relay method. I'm used to wiring solenoids and stuff that doesn't use much current at all.

When i had this kit in my vette I didn't use a heater.

blk99sleekbeak

iTrader: (2)

use a relay. the switch its self would never handle that kind of load. im sure you wouldnt want your car to burn to the ground

Gary Z

A relay is not needed if you use a switch rated for more than 20 amps. You can find such switches at most hardware stores or Radio Shack. A 20-amp switch might be larger than you want. If you want to use a minature toggle switch then you need a relay to handle the current. You also must use wire rated for more than 20 amps. The entire path from the battery to the heater and back to ground should be 14 guage minimum, preferably 12 guage.

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

Like just about everyone has said, I would run a relay unless you can find a switch rated to carry the load. Is there a reason why you're trying to avoid using one?

Nick

Chris@NitroDaves

As stated later in the thread if you can find a switch to hold the amps then you go with your diagram.

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

thanks guys. The problem is the power drop under the dash of my car can't handle the current of the heater. I was trying to avoid excessive wiring but it looks like the relay setup is the way to go.