check out my plugs 250 shot...
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check out my plugs 250 shot...
3 of the plugs that look rich were in the driver side and 2 of the plugs that look leaner were in the passenger side. my wideband is in the driver side reading rich, 10.9-11.1 which from looking at the plugs from that bank seems about right. however the passenger side plugs looking lean i dont quite understand? its a direct port kit and is jetted at 28n 16f @ 45lbs of fuel. Also timing is backed off 13 degrees, but another thing i was too sure of is why there appears to be 2 timing lines on the plug, wats that about?
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#11
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Interesting question - here’s my theory: A timing mark is created on the ground strap at the point that is at the annealing temperature. Because the strap will always be hottest at the tip and cooler where it is anchored to the plug body, a timing mark can only appear at one point unless conditions change. The strap must have been heated to a point that created the mark nearer the body, cooled, and reheated to a (lower) point that created the mark nearer the tip.
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cam only ms3 cam stock bottom end, stand alone w/ c16 in it. 27* and have pulled 13 degrees, its running at 14*. which timing mark are u looking at? i see two and am unsure which to go by, there is a dark one about at the bend of the strap and another lighter mark that shows up on all driver side bank plugs that stops on the top of the strap on the passenger side it looks like the lighter mark would be running off the strap of the plug
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Interesting question - here’s my theory: A timing mark is created on the ground strap at the point that is at the annealing temperature. Because the strap will always be hottest at the tip and cooler where it is anchored to the plug body, a timing mark can only appear at one point unless conditions change. The strap must have been heated to a point that created the mark nearer the body, cooled, and reheated to a (lower) point that created the mark nearer the tip.
like possibly a shift? i did shift it and then not pull it through the entire rpm range...?
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This could be the cause. Plug reading assumes shutoff after running at WOT long enough to reach steady-state conditions. Plugs may look different after, say 4 seconds at WOT than after only 2 seconds.
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The jetting is in the ball park.
I would pull 2* out and take it to the track and make some hits.
Start with 1/8th mile and work up to 1/4 mile checking plugs along the way.
Few years back I had a wet fogger on the car with 28/16 jeting and it was VERY rich at 60psi which is why I say your in the ball park with it at 45psi.
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sounds like a plan, on the street is just too hard to tune a car safely.... prob gettin to the track next weekend. i was considering droppin fuel pressure to 40 inorder to lean it out a bit and ill try pullin 2* also. maybe i shuld up the jetting on the passenger side? im alil worried as to how they looked compared to the driver side... or shuld i leave it alone?
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sounds like a plan, on the street is just too hard to tune a car safely.... prob gettin to the track next weekend. i was considering droppin fuel pressure to 40 inorder to lean it out a bit and ill try pullin 2* also. maybe i shuld up the jetting on the passenger side? im alil worried as to how they looked compared to the driver side... or shuld i leave it alone?
#20
I would start by stepping the fuel jets up to 24 and drop your fuel pressure to around 6 psi.(Flowing Pressure).Tuning with high pressure and using tiny little fuel jets is a PITA.