I would recommend you go with the jetting I pm'ed you. A 10 psi tune-up is where I would start at with the MAF. You are doing a good job with the tuning so far. Posting up great plug pics and listening to the correct people. I am actually impressed with your attitude on it.

 

Thanks everyone for your replies! You guys have been a big help in getting this thing closer to where it needs to be. What is better to start with a 10 psi tune or 5 psi? I get my pump and lines friday so I can get this thing finished this weekend and start tuning. Is everyone on here running a FPSS because mine doesnt have one. Should I invest in one?

 

I put a fpss on my stand alone fuel system. I think it kills it if it gets below 5 psi.

I was givien a warning by someone on the bullet about using these. He said thay can be junk and not work propperly. Causing lots of head aches.

 

Thank you for the heads up. I think I will put a flow gauge on it and make sure all is cool and roll with out one. Thanks again!

 

Flow test it every pass, and adjust utnil you're on point. I don't like the 10 psi because it needs a smaller jet size that is easier to clog, but that's a personal preferance thing.

The FPSS, shitcan that idea now. 100 more headaches then you need.

 

^^^^ This.

Especially the part about the FPSS...

 

This is a great thread and great people in it including the OP.

Can ATV or someone else explain what they are looking at and why the second set of plugs looked better? I just don't know what I am looking at yet. I have read some about how to read plugs but I am still a newbie.

Great thread.

 

The fuel ring looked better in the 2nd pics and the timing marks didnt extend around the bend of the strap.

 

Now that I have the stand alone I think I will try going back to my timing I had on the 2nd set of pics. But I will try a little less to start and go from there. If I can get around to another track day. What kind of big deal is it if I want to take the O2's out?? Maybe I should just leave them because it is working good? What do you guys think get them out or leave them?

 

Was just looking for highest octane unleaed race fuel. VP makes what they call motorsport 109. That should be good enough to put in the cell and be able to up a little timing not? I am looking to get the best unleaded I can so I dont have to ditch the o2's...? Here are the specs what do you think?

SPECIFICATION SHEET FOR MS 109

(Typical Values) Specific Gravity: .722 @ 60°F

Oxygenated: Yes

Color: Clear

Motor Octane: 101

Research Octane: 109

R+M/2: 105

Reid Vapor Pressure: 6.17

Oxidation Stability (min.) 1440+

Distillation:
10% evap @ 147.0°F

50% evap @ 167.8°F

90% evap @ 213.3°F

E.P. @ 263.8°F

Production: Elmendorf, Texas USA

Availability: Sealed Drums

Rev: 02/04

 

IMO, now that you have a standalone, I'd be running C16 in it. Your cost, just for the fuel that the standalone will pump is very mimimal, and that will provide you with a very safe fuel for what you're doing.

I don't have the specific's but I do believe the motor octane is 117 or something like that with C16, it's pretty good stuff and readily available. If you have a torco dealer, we like the Nos 118 blend (now known as competition fuels) That stuff is a real heavy fuel, but really resists detonation, I think it's a little better nitrous fuel then C16, but that's my opinion, plenty of people go really fast with both.

Get the best stuff you can in the standaone, stick with it, and you'll find that your tunign window is gonna get ALOT bigger with a good quality fuel in there.

 

Oxygenated fuel is not great for nitrous.

 

So If I get C16 in the stand alone. Can I run my o2 sensors still? Becuase I would love to run C16 but I thought it would take out my o2's?

 

All race fuel is gonna take them out. Get the O2's turned off, trust me on this it will make life alot easier. Car can still use the intake sensors and maf to adjust a little to weather and it will be fine. I had my car set up this way with a stock maf and it would repeat with .01 from run to run in both summer and early spring/fall conditions... with no o2's in the car. I just had dead sensors in there that were filling the holes, nothing was even plugged in and it was good to go.

 

THIS !!! ^^^^

My stock computer set up was done the same way. Worked great.

 

I may not have had the fastest car, but I did have it set up right.

 

I'm getting ready to do the same thing to mine so I can run straight C16 when spraying.... No need for any O2's!!

 

So all I have to do is delete them with HP tuner and Im ready to go? I dont have to retune or do any thing else? If that is the case I cant belive those things are still in there.

 

Yes essentially.

Get on a dyno, make a pull with them on (n/a pull)

Go in HP tuners, turn them off, and make another pull, adjust it if needed so it's doing the same, and then you're good. Probably need to make a couple adjustments in the maf table or something to get it back or something along those lines, but it won't be hard.

 

I am not the best at tuning so I wouldnt really now what to adjust in the maf. Also I dont have dyno in our area. Its like 400 miles away. The car was tuned before in MO. Any suggestions?