My Current setup for nitrous
Dynotune LT1 150hp kit wet
MSD window switch
WOT switch
Auto bottle warmer set to 1100psi


My Car
Lt1 224 230 536 550 Ported heads
11.6:1 compression
TR6 plugs .038 gap
10% 110 race fuel
LT4 knock module

Problem:
When i use it. Sometimes it works with little detonation. Other times it doesnt at all. Car acts like its pulling timing bad with hesitation and a skipping noise like it was missing. Ive tried adjusting the Jetting dyno tune sends with .057N and .032F for the 150 hit. Ran that with little sucess. Ran .077N .048F with a few good runs no skipping but ended up killing plugs.
I tried dropping fuel with .077N .042. No good runs.
When i replaced plugs Tips were white and seat was black and wet. What does that mean?

Seems like i have more sucessfull runs at lower psi on bottle around 900-1k

Ive ran a 200 shot before on this car and had no issues. Cant seem to figure out what im doing wrong please input!

 

Are you pulling any timing? I liked running the bottle pressure around 950-1000. Do you purge? I think I ran my plugs around .030 I also liked running more race fuel. You NEVER know what your getting out of the gas stations. Did you double check you switches and solenoids?

 

With a 200 shot you need to be running a #8 plug for one thing. The 6s are to hot that could be some of your problem with the detonation. Also like stated above by LASTLS1 I would lower the bottle temp to 950. I would try gapping the plugs at 35 to and see if it helps any.
What is your AF on those runs?

 

First off you need to put a b8efs plug in that setup, thats why you have problems with detonating. Secondly you are having the bottle psi way to high. Your probably having liquid go thru instead of gas. YOu need to have the bottle at 950 and try that. Also check to make sure everything is working properly. Also gap the new plugs at 35

 

When i ran the 200 shot i would run a 35/65 mixture 110/93 octane and the NGK BR7EF.

I hate doing plugs on this car(my hands and arms havent forgiven me from last night yet). Will the gap difference of .003 make a big difference?

Im trying to setup the car for the 150 shot. I am leaning toward bottle pressure being the issue with this kit.

Ive ran 1100 bottle pressure on bigger soleniods with no issue. These smaller solenoid must be swelling the seal and keeping it liquid like someone stated.

I dont have a wideband so no clue on AF.

Ive tested the system it sprays.


I appreciate all the replys and welcome more input.
Thanks

 

Can you log voltage while spraying for us?

 

Voltage overall? Yes i can do that. what will that do?

 

So i tested the nitrous without the nitrous and it did the same hesitation What does this mean?

 

What do you mean "tested the nitrous without the nitrous"? Did you shut the bottle or cap off both the fuel and nitrous feed lines?

 

sprayed just fuel. that simulated the problem. turned botttle off purged nitrous from lines then did a test run with just fuel and car acted up just like it is when im trying to spray.

What did u mean with the voltage? What will that tell u?

 

Have you checked your ground from the nitrous solenoid? Can you try another solenoid?

As far as the voltage, I like to know what it's doing because of how much electrical crap comes along with a nitrous car. If something's going on throughout the pass with voltages those electrical systems can act up. I know last year I was having problems with a surging nitrous kit because my alternator was getting a poor signal to charge.

 

ill hook my scanner up an log the voltage and let you know. Thanks for the input.

I used the same ground the car uses for ground by the battery.

 

See if the nitrous solenoid opens if you just give it power and a ground on its own. Do you have a nitrous filter? Check to see that it is unobstructed if you do.

 

Ok, Lets back up a second...............


From reading your post through out here are obvious issues..

1. With the solenoids you have the bottle pressure is probably keeping the m from opening. Lower the bottle pressure to 1000 psi.

2. Get rid of the TR6 plugs and go the the BR7EF.

3. Get a wide band on the car since you do not know how to read plugs.

4. Your mod list says nothing about fuel pump upgrades????? What is your fuel pressure doing?

5. You say nothing about pulling timing. You need to be pulling 4 to 6 f your N/A tune is for N/A power.


Your post reads future disaster all over it. Stand back a minute and go back at this with a different approach before you are putting a motor in your car.

Dave

 

Dave


Thanks for the oversight. Ive been spraying this motor since 2006 with no problems till now. This kit has caused my issues. The one step plugs have worked fine for me in the past. However i might try swapping the plugs to the 2 step colder. Id love to get a wideband maybe sometime soon. Dont really consider a fuel pump a note worthy mod thats why its not listed. Its a walbro 255lph in tank. Fuel pressure is dandy i checked that first. Ill throw in there also that i have trick flow 36lb injectors. I have the computer tuned for nitrous. I dont know what kind of timing they pulled but at idle its around 26 degrees of timing. They set the computer up for the nitrous. Told me how much race fuel to run for each shot.