Timing retard
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 367
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From: Kentucky
Timing retard I was just reading Dynotune's instructions on their site and they state:
Ignition timing should be retarded approximately 2 degrees per 50 hp
above a 100hp increase. So at 150hp total increase use 2 degrees additional retard.
Huh? Only 2 degrees pulled for a 150 shot? And none for a 100?
It also says under their baseline tuning section of the instructions:
Using an octane booster may eliminate the need for timing retard at 150hp levels and higher. 125HP will not require any timing retard, just try and use 92-93 octane. LS engines use knock sensors so if it senses any pinging/detonation, the computer will retard the timing for you!
This doesn't seem to be the way to do things from what I have been reading on this site...
Ignition timing should be retarded approximately 2 degrees per 50 hp
above a 100hp increase. So at 150hp total increase use 2 degrees additional retard.
Huh? Only 2 degrees pulled for a 150 shot? And none for a 100?
It also says under their baseline tuning section of the instructions:
Using an octane booster may eliminate the need for timing retard at 150hp levels and higher. 125HP will not require any timing retard, just try and use 92-93 octane. LS engines use knock sensors so if it senses any pinging/detonation, the computer will retard the timing for you!
This doesn't seem to be the way to do things from what I have been reading on this site...
For 150 you should be pulling about 6 degrees. Octain booster is not a replacement for the need to pull timing. That is a statement alot of the nitrous companies make I completely disagree with.
Dave
Dave
I was just reading Dynotune's instructions on their site and they state:
Ignition timing should be retarded approximately 2 degrees per 50 hp
above a 100hp increase. So at 150hp total increase use 2 degrees additional retard.
Huh? Only 2 degrees pulled for a 150 shot? And none for a 100?
It also says under their baseline tuning section of the instructions:
Using an octane booster may eliminate the need for timing retard at 150hp levels and higher. 125HP will not require any timing retard, just try and use 92-93 octane. LS engines use knock sensors so if it senses any pinging/detonation, the computer will retard the timing for you!
This doesn't seem to be the way to do things from what I have been reading on this site...
Ignition timing should be retarded approximately 2 degrees per 50 hp
above a 100hp increase. So at 150hp total increase use 2 degrees additional retard.
Huh? Only 2 degrees pulled for a 150 shot? And none for a 100?
It also says under their baseline tuning section of the instructions:
Using an octane booster may eliminate the need for timing retard at 150hp levels and higher. 125HP will not require any timing retard, just try and use 92-93 octane. LS engines use knock sensors so if it senses any pinging/detonation, the computer will retard the timing for you!
This doesn't seem to be the way to do things from what I have been reading on this site...
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
From: Kentucky
There's a reason for that.... All that s*!+ is completely wrong!
There is NO WAY you should only pull 2* for a 150 shot, or rely on the knock sensors to pull timing, or trust some octane booster as a replacement for proper timing retard.....
There is NO WAY you should only pull 2* for a 150 shot, or rely on the knock sensors to pull timing, or trust some octane booster as a replacement for proper timing retard.....
Last edited by ryarbrough; Aug 19, 2010 at 08:37 AM.
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From: Wichita falls Texas
Hey sarge. I would definitely not follow any of that.
I would pull 7*'s out and see where the plugs are. If you need help looking at them you can always email me pics.
Btw. We were out of your size in the black shirts so it didnt get sent till today. Like that sig tho sir. Thanks for the support.
I would pull 7*'s out and see where the plugs are. If you need help looking at them you can always email me pics.
Btw. We were out of your size in the black shirts so it didnt get sent till today. Like that sig tho sir. Thanks for the support.
Fwiw I wouldn't follow it either, I just wonder what they are basing that info off of, I can not for the life of me imagine that it's based off of max performance n/a timing that's for SURE.
The way I read what you bolded is, 2 per 50 PLUS 2 more over 100, so for a 150 shot you'd pull at least 8 degrees. 2 per 50 x 3 is 6, then 2 more for over 100 so a total of 8.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
From: Kentucky
Yeah I put this out there to draw attention the amount of wrong information being distributed. I would never run a 150 shot and only pull 2 degrees. Hell I would never run a 100 shot on a stock tune either.
Currently my WOT spark cells are 27-28 degrees. Pop goes the engine with 2 degrees pulled. I may start with pulling 7-8 and adjust up if plugs determine that to be the need.
Currently my WOT spark cells are 27-28 degrees. Pop goes the engine with 2 degrees pulled. I may start with pulling 7-8 and adjust up if plugs determine that to be the need.
It's kind of like robbing banks as a source of income... Some people get away with it and make a fortune... It costs everyone else a lot to recover from!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
From: Kentucky
Hey sarge. I would definitely not follow any of that.
I would pull 7*'s out and see where the plugs are. If you need help looking at them you can always email me pics.
Btw. We were out of your size in the black shirts so it didnt get sent till today. Like that sig tho sir. Thanks for the support.
I would pull 7*'s out and see where the plugs are. If you need help looking at them you can always email me pics.
Btw. We were out of your size in the black shirts so it didnt get sent till today. Like that sig tho sir. Thanks for the support.
Oh, never did get the shirt. Maybe UPS guy wanted it... He always says when he sees big *** tires on his truck he knows he's coming to my house...
