nitrous LQ4 sonoma
10-12-2010, 12:29 PM
#1
Launching!
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nitrous LQ4 sonoma ran my truck saturday, 99 sonoma stock LQ4, stock 4l80e, 12 bolt w/ 3.73s and a 150 shot. wet kit single efi nozzle.
truck has shorty headers, no cats, single 3.5" exhaust, and weighs 3730lbs with me in it.
it went 11.57 @ 115.7 with a 1.70 60'. on a 255/50/16 hoosier drag radial.
not the greatest video but....
http://www.youtube.com/user/turbohoo...10/kmm2EY4D03A
truck has shorty headers, no cats, single 3.5" exhaust, and weighs 3730lbs with me in it.
it went 11.57 @ 115.7 with a 1.70 60'. on a 255/50/16 hoosier drag radial.
not the greatest video but....
http://www.youtube.com/user/turbohoo...10/kmm2EY4D03A
10-12-2010, 06:17 PM
#5
Launching!
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i wouldnt have thought so either... the title said it weighed like 3250 or something with the 4.3/4l60e, after i put it all together (the 4l80e weighed almost 130lbs more than the 4l60e!) with the stock 10 bolt and no nitrous it weighed 3640 with me in it and almost no gas; this was a a CAT scale at a truck stop, then i weighed it saturday at the dragstrip, which were sanctioning some nostalgic super stock races, so im assuming the scales were "on" it weighed 3730lbs with me in it and about 7 gallons of gas.
anyways it is much heavier than i thought it would be.
no it has the stock 4l80e converter, in the video, thats leaving at like 1100 rpms and rolling into the WOT switch almost immediately. Yes i know youre not supposed to spray under like 2500-3000... but whatever its just a junkyard motor.
i think with slicks and a 4000 converter its got real low 11's in it. i realllllllllly want to turbo it since i have the turbonetics tc-78, wastegate, and bov, and some other piping and intercooler from a previous project, but for the time being this is sort of holding my interest. kinda.
anyways it is much heavier than i thought it would be.
no it has the stock 4l80e converter, in the video, thats leaving at like 1100 rpms and rolling into the WOT switch almost immediately. Yes i know youre not supposed to spray under like 2500-3000... but whatever its just a junkyard motor.
i think with slicks and a 4000 converter its got real low 11's in it. i realllllllllly want to turbo it since i have the turbonetics tc-78, wastegate, and bov, and some other piping and intercooler from a previous project, but for the time being this is sort of holding my interest. kinda.
10-12-2010, 09:18 PM
#7
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10-13-2010, 07:39 PM
#9
Launching!
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if i were to go back to the track this weekend, OTHER than a stall converter, what could i do to see some improvement..?
1st-correct bottle pressure... ~1000psi (was @ 750ish before)
i was think of putting some of the ignition timing back into the tune, and running some straight race gas, 107, 110, whatever...
i have SOME weight i could get rid of, i dont know if itd really be worth it.(toneau cover, tailgate, etc.)
and im gonna try lowering the air in my tires, and doing a better burnout.. i ran 15psi before, i was thinking of trying like 10-12psi, theyre hoosier drag radials....
what do you guys think?
without a stall id like to get a 1.6X 60' (did a 1.70 before) and like 11.30 ET
i spray it basically right off the line...
1st-correct bottle pressure... ~1000psi (was @ 750ish before)
i was think of putting some of the ignition timing back into the tune, and running some straight race gas, 107, 110, whatever...
i have SOME weight i could get rid of, i dont know if itd really be worth it.(toneau cover, tailgate, etc.)
and im gonna try lowering the air in my tires, and doing a better burnout.. i ran 15psi before, i was thinking of trying like 10-12psi, theyre hoosier drag radials....
what do you guys think?
without a stall id like to get a 1.6X 60' (did a 1.70 before) and like 11.30 ET
i spray it basically right off the line...
10-31-2010, 04:44 PM
#10
Depending on what you have for suspension under that truck here is what you need to do, if you havent already. Pull the front sway bar, loosen the upper control arm bushing nuts, cut the rear bumpstop brackets off, remove the third shock if it has one, clamp the front of the leaf springs, leave on the nitrous. I havent done any of that except for removing the front sway bar on mine and I already have gone 1.70 sixties and thats with a stock 4.3 on a 100 shot. Your truck looks like its leaving pretty good already with good weight transfer. Another thing. Ditch the tailpipe and dump it before the axle. I had a three inch tailpipe on my truck when I originally did the exhaust and I found out it was hitting the axle when I left and causing the suspension to unload. Any more questions please feel free to ask.
11-04-2010, 01:59 AM
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Depending on what you have for suspension under that truck here is what you need to do, if you havent already. Pull the front sway bar, loosen the upper control arm bushing nuts, cut the rear bumpstop brackets off, remove the third shock if it has one, clamp the front of the leaf springs, leave on the nitrous. I havent done any of that except for removing the front sway bar on mine and I already have gone 1.70 sixties and thats with a stock 4.3 on a 100 shot. Your truck looks like its leaving pretty good already with good weight transfer. Another thing. Ditch the tailpipe and dump it before the axle. I had a three inch tailpipe on my truck when I originally did the exhaust and I found out it was hitting the axle when I left and causing the suspension to unload. Any more questions please feel free to ask.
11-04-2010, 06:27 PM
#13
Remove third shock because it actually causes a bind when you get these trucks to hook. And yeah the upper control arm nuts do make a difference. Anytime you can reduce rotating friction you can get the front end up faster and you are transferring weight faster. Why else would tubular control arms come with heim joints or bearings in the cross bar on the uppers.
