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Spray 75, 150 or 175? Cam only ls1

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Old 11-15-2010, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by PACKETFOCUS
#1 - Yes, running a NX wet kit. #4 from the nitrous out and #3 from the fuel out

#2 - I'm in the process of upgrading the pump right now. I have a FPSS switch on the fuel rail and set to cut the solenoids off if it drops below 40. Gonna pump this up a little after I make a few passes on the kit.

#3 - Running TR7 plugs and pulling out 6 degrees timing with a MSD timing twister.

Also have a bottle heater and purge.

I didn't rush into this, just wondered how may people spray 150 or so before upgrading the fuel pump.

So to be safe, I'm going to upgrade mine as well.

I will upload some pictures tomorrow when the wiring is finished.
why are you running a projected tip plug for a nitrous application? Projected tips are for boost/high compression N/A cars. You want use a BR7EF gapped at .032 for a 150 shot
Old 11-15-2010, 07:52 AM
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Pretty sure there is no such thing as a "TR7" (at least anymore). The part number for the non-projected 7 is BR7EFS (THIS IS THE ONE YOU WANT). The part number for the projected tip is BP7EFS (THIS IS NOT THE ONE YOU WANT).
Old 11-15-2010, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ryarbrough
Pretty sure there is no such thing as a "TR7" (at least anymore). The part number for the non-projected 7 is BR7EFS (THIS IS THE ONE YOU WANT). The part number for the projected tip is BP7EFS (THIS IS NOT THE ONE YOU WANT).
They are the BR7, sorry bout that. Also gapped em at .035 so it should be all good
Old 12-01-2010, 11:22 PM
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damm man you make me want the juice again
Old 12-01-2010, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 69TA
damm man you make me want the juice again
Yeah man I know what your talking about. I'm thinking about going to test this weekend and start at 150 and see what happens.

I'd like to see how much a stock bottom end, cam only ls1 will handle with a good tune up.

I'm thinking 200 is about it through a single nx shark nozzle.
Old 12-02-2010, 08:45 AM
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i know of some boys on here sprayin a lil more that 200 on SBE and still holding together. But I am sure they are checking everything every run. GL with the kit.
Old 12-02-2010, 09:36 AM
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If it were me, I would have tried to figure out why that car is dead crawlin on motor first before trying to spray the rods out of it.
Old 12-02-2010, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
If it were me, I would have tried to figure out why that car is dead crawlin on motor first before trying to spray the rods out of it.
What do you mean? Its running 11.90 on cam only right now?
Old 12-02-2010, 01:29 PM
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Just saying you could do much better NA, which would translate to bigger benefits with spray.
Old 12-02-2010, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
Just saying you could do much better NA, which would translate to bigger benefits with spray.
So you think it should run better without changing any parts like cam, convertor, or heads? I have about 50 passes on it before it went from 12.2 to 11.90
Old 12-02-2010, 03:07 PM
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Well, the MPH isn't there. How heavy are you? I'm at a 3300lb race weight with a stock cam and MPH higher than you do.
Old 12-02-2010, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
Well, the MPH isn't there. How heavy are you? I'm at a 3300lb race weight with a stock cam and MPH higher than you do.
The best MPH as 114 I think. My car is full weight plus some for 6pt wolfe cage, 15lb nitrous bottle, etc. Only thing removed is AC and I weight about 220, so 3650 or so weight?
Old 12-02-2010, 04:25 PM
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114 is normal for an everyday cam car. Theres more to be had with et and mph but I would say nothing is wrong.
Old 12-02-2010, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TA1364
114 is normal for an everyday cam car. Theres more to be had with et and mph but I would say nothing is wrong.
Yeah the track was on kill when it went a 1.65, 7.50, 11.90. it was about 11pm and 40 degress and the track was dead hooking.

I knew when it left that it was on a pass because it put my helmet back against the head rest. That was with the 10-bolt and 3.73's.

Car is basic street car with a cage and cam, headers.

Now it has a moser 9" and full madman rear suspension with AFCO's all the way around with a wolfe single anti-sway.

I agree there is a lot more left in tuning the suspension to motor. Steve helped me put clicks in it for a 150 hit so its a little hard on motor.

At this point, I'm just gonna focus on the nitrous tune-up and suspension adjustment since I want to drive to the track and run 10's.

I bet if the stock bottom end was prepped for nitrous it would hold together for a while if its not leaned out.


Do most high 11 second, stalled auto's leave wheels up? My car is transferring and is just at the point of bringing up both tires.
Old 12-02-2010, 05:30 PM
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with that small .581 TCP cam and new 4.10's, seems like the TCI 3000 stall really needs to be about a 4000 to get it to leave.

Its totally different leaving than with the 3.73's and 10-bolt. I flashed it about 1000rpm with a good track to get my best 60' of 1.65 w/ the 10 bolt and 28" MT Radials but haven't gotten the 9" and 4:10's to 60's better than that yet.

Convertor just seems weird now for some reason but I only have about 10 hits on the new suspension setup.
Old 12-03-2010, 08:53 AM
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If you step it up to a 4000, get one that's built for spray. I push my SS4000 a little on spray (it flashes to 4500 on motor already). Sounds like you've made some good changes already, and yes, high 11 cars launch with the wheels up. I'm even lifting the stock heavy front wheels. This is what a 1.50 60' looks like, and was done on motor!

Old 12-03-2010, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
If you step it up to a 4000, get one that's built for spray. I push my SS4000 a little on spray (it flashes to 4500 on motor already). Sounds like you've made some good changes already, and yes, high 11 cars launch with the wheels up. I'm even lifting the stock heavy front wheels. This is what a 1.50 60' looks like, and was done on motor!


Looks strong man!! The convertor is next on my list. My car just isn't leaving hard enough. I'm also still leaning the AFCO shocks my settings for NA and for Spray. Here is my car launching from a couple weeks ago:

Old 12-03-2010, 10:41 AM
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That pic was full loose front, and full tight rear on my QA1's. I'm going to take a couple clicks out of the front to prevent that hop.
Old 12-03-2010, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
That pic was full loose front, and full tight rear on my QA1's. I'm going to take a couple clicks out of the front to prevent that hop.
In the picture of my car, I worked with steve at madmans and we put clicks in it for a 150 hit out of the hole, so it was stiff in the front based on NA settings.

I only have about 10 passes on the new suspension so I have to learn about setting it up.

Plus the convertor acts a lot different with the 4.10's and 9" than the 10 bolt and 3.73s so I have to keep trying different launch RPMs to see what it likes.

Thats is until I can get a REAL convertor around 4000k or so.
Old 12-03-2010, 12:53 PM
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Just make sure you have enough fuel pump to cover a 175. Walbro 255's are good til about 550rwhp. I'm cam only also and I stay at a 150 shot just for this reason.


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