N2RacingLS1's Survives 260'+ Bumper Drag on Dry Nitrous
#61
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Here are the time slips from Darlington. My best NA pass to date and the wild nitrous pass! Also a great pic of the 10.47 launch.
N2
Last edited by N2RACINGLS1's; 02-24-2011 at 04:52 PM.
#62
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We purchased a new video camera and it came with new software and I was able to upload the video from my wheel stand in Darlington, SC and create still photos of the wheel stand!
Enjoy!!
N2
Enjoy!!
N2
Last edited by N2RACINGLS1's; 05-27-2011 at 10:32 PM.
#67
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We run less than 1" of travel and it still will go to the bumper sometimes.
A 1/4" difference here or there will make it go strait up or stay down.
We have timing out early to help with this also.
We are also going to try to hook up an OH **** button to put on the steering wheel that will pull 10* out to set it down easy and not cost so much time like it does when you have to pedal it.
A 1/4" difference here or there will make it go strait up or stay down.
We have timing out early to help with this also.
We are also going to try to hook up an OH **** button to put on the steering wheel that will pull 10* out to set it down easy and not cost so much time like it does when you have to pedal it.
They have 2 stages, activated by timers on the car and they have the same inherent problem you do, as do alot of people at that speed/power level that can't run a wheelie bar. They were going to have an emergency button, to hit if it started coming up to take one kit and progress an undetermined amount of it out, and it would stop progressing at a given rate once the button was released, like put it all back in over the course of a tenth or 3 so that the tires wouldn't get shocked.
I don't know if that will work, but it seems like a good idea. We also talked about possibly having a gyro mounted to the car, if the chassis angle got to a certain position it would kick on, and the steeper the angle the more it would pull out. I don't know if that could work though with the Gforce a car sees..... I'd guess even if it would work.. the amount of testing to get something like that to work is pretty nutty.
#68
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N2, nice wheelie too by the way. Have you changed the oil, and if so what was on the magnet after that? Reason I ask.. is if you still have a stock pan on it and the stock pickup... I'm wondering what the engine saw for oil during that adventure....
Also, what are you calling a 75 and 125 hp level, jet wise? I always see people give the power level #'s out, but I'm more interested in the jet size...
Also, what are you calling a 75 and 125 hp level, jet wise? I always see people give the power level #'s out, but I'm more interested in the jet size...
#71
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Have you changed the oil, and if so what was on the magnet after that? Reason I ask.. is if you still have a stock pan on it and the stock pickup... I'm wondering what the engine saw for oil during that adventure....
Also, what are you calling a 75 and 125 hp level, jet wise? I always see people give the power level #'s out, but I'm more interested in the jet size...
Also, what are you calling a 75 and 125 hp level, jet wise? I always see people give the power level #'s out, but I'm more interested in the jet size...
Sorry for taking a few days to respond I have been busy and have not checked the thread.
I changed the oil and filter while checking everything out on the car once I got it back home! It look liked it always does and the magnet had nothing on it. I was shocked for sure. I have made somewhere around 20 to 25 passes in the car since the wheelie. The engine does have the stock pan on it as well.
As far as the jet size it is straight out of the 5177 NOS installation manual. The manual states the 75 HP level is dual .028 jets and the 125 HP level is dual .038 jets, from what I have been told the stated HP level is at the engine not the wheels!
N2
#72
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Aw hell you're running the old 5177 dry kit
I didn't think there was anyone left running that thing, those are purge solenoids LOL!
Nice work though. Just be careful with the sheel stands and a stock pan, you can suck a little air and end up messing a bearing doing that.
Next motor I do, will have the remote filter on it, with an accusump on the filter feed side just to make sure that it's never an issue. Easiest way to make sure that you have a good stable oil feed.
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
Nice work though. Just be careful with the sheel stands and a stock pan, you can suck a little air and end up messing a bearing doing that.
Next motor I do, will have the remote filter on it, with an accusump on the filter feed side just to make sure that it's never an issue. Easiest way to make sure that you have a good stable oil feed.
#73
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Aw hell you're running the old 5177 dry kit
I didn't think there was anyone left running that thing, those are purge solenoids LOL!
Next motor I do, will have the remote filter on it, with an accusump on the filter feed side just to make sure that it's never an issue. Easiest way to make sure that you have a good stable oil feed.
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
Next motor I do, will have the remote filter on it, with an accusump on the filter feed side just to make sure that it's never an issue. Easiest way to make sure that you have a good stable oil feed.
That is what I like about you, down grade everyone else’s setup and in the next paragraph talk about what you are going to do when you get back up and running with your ride. How long has your car been down now?
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The great thing here is I am still running down the track and enjoying my ride with old I mean old parts. The so called purge solenoids you speak of are long gone I use a Cheater solenoid which will flow up to 250 HP according to Holley and I am sure it is more then I will ever use on my junk! I mean after all it is just a little 346 CI old school engine.
It is all good though!
N2
#74
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That wasn't meant to be a shot at all. I'm just very surprised to hear that anyone's still on one of those kits. That was like the original nitrous kit that came out when the LS engine scene started. I can remember people hooking those up so that one was a purge, then doing it so it was a 2 stage, etc. They absolutely work. I was more thrown way back to hear that you're still on one of those. I'm not surprised, that you've upgraded the solenoids though. Had you said that the standard ones it came with were still there.. I'd be even more shocked. And you know what I mean.. the standard solenoids a 5177 kit came with are a commonly used purge noid.. at least they are now.
My junk's apart.. because I choose it to be. My dumbass decided to try to push the envelope and take the car alot farther. Probably should have never done it. Thing was running fine when it came apart. Had I just freshened it all up, and put a real intake on it the car would be running today... but no, I couldn't just do that
You're the smart one, you put your car together a while ago, and didn't mess with it. The dummy's like me, don't know when it's best to just leave it alone.
The remote filter thing was just a suggestion... if you want to help keep the thing alive which apparently you don't need any help with being that it's still going strong. But, if the car's ever apart, it might be a worth while upgrade. I recently saw a motor apart that had an accusump on it.. I never thought that it was really needed until I saw how much better the bearings looked compared to the last time that same engine was apart.
Sorry it came across the wrong way. That's the problem with typing.. ya never can tell what the actual reaction is.
My junk's apart.. because I choose it to be. My dumbass decided to try to push the envelope and take the car alot farther. Probably should have never done it. Thing was running fine when it came apart. Had I just freshened it all up, and put a real intake on it the car would be running today... but no, I couldn't just do that
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
The remote filter thing was just a suggestion... if you want to help keep the thing alive which apparently you don't need any help with being that it's still going strong. But, if the car's ever apart, it might be a worth while upgrade. I recently saw a motor apart that had an accusump on it.. I never thought that it was really needed until I saw how much better the bearings looked compared to the last time that same engine was apart.
Sorry it came across the wrong way. That's the problem with typing.. ya never can tell what the actual reaction is.
#75
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The wheel stand is awesome and the longer the better!
#79
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I went with dry nitrous so I would not have to worry about fuel pooling in the intake. I have also found tuning to be a little less headache for me since I like to run NA and nitrous during the same track outings!
Good luck on the research, I wish I could be more help! All I can say is the wheel stand you see in my video was using only a 125 HP shot or a .038 size jet so my car seems to like the hit pretty good!!
N2
Good luck on the research, I wish I could be more help! All I can say is the wheel stand you see in my video was using only a 125 HP shot or a .038 size jet so my car seems to like the hit pretty good!!
N2
#80
10 Second Club
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I went with dry nitrous so I would not have to worry about fuel pooling in the intake. I have also found tuning to be a little less headache for me since I like to run NA and nitrous during the same track outings!
Good luck on the research, I wish I could be more help! All I can say is the wheel stand you see in my video was using only a 125 HP shot or a .038 size jet so my car seems to like the hit pretty good!!
N2
Good luck on the research, I wish I could be more help! All I can say is the wheel stand you see in my video was using only a 125 HP shot or a .038 size jet so my car seems to like the hit pretty good!!
N2