I've been having issues with my nitrous since the beginning of of 2010. It would cut in and out as if i was turning it on and off repeatedly or even fall flat on its face up top before shifting into 3rd. Sometimes it would work fine and pull strong all the way through the 1/4. Within the last 6 months i've put all new nitrous components on the car and re-wired it just to be sure. Pulled great a couple weeks ago....went to the track last night and it was doing the same ****. I do not know what to do or where to even look anymore.

Video from last night, you can here it having problems.
http://youtu.be/VZ-FBI0qCm0

 

What do you use for a wot switch?

 

Just your basic micro switch mounted behind the TB

 

When I very first installed nitrous on this car 4 years ago, i never had one single issue. Then one day it started and never went away.

 

Did you change the bottle or its position? Im no expert so dont flame me if im completely wront, but my uncle did the same thing and it ended up being his bottle. someting about a pickup tube or some **** and the angle of the bottle.. If it got below a certain level and he was leaving hard, it would cut out... dont know if this would apply to you but I figured I would share...

 

The bottle has been mounted the same way ever since. The problem still occurs even if the bottle is full 100%

 

Whats you upper window switch limit and wheres it shift?

 

Try to simplify everything. Remove the switch on the TB. Just put it on a button in the car. Are you using a fuel pressure cutoff switch? If so remove it and try it. Check the grounds to the solenoids make sure they are tight. Have you checked your relays and the grounds to the relays?

 

I am going to say your WOT is not correct anymore(moved slightly or gone bad). Or if you only have one bottle the pick up tube has an issue.

A nitrous system is VERY simple so there are very few things that can go wrong. I have a feeling it is so simple you have over looked the issue.

 

one other thing to check would be the relay ... I had my take a dump and it work some times and other times it worked for 3 second then stopped. sometimes not at all. just a thought.

 

that is 100% the exact same issue i was having... i was adjusting the wot switch by opening the tb by hand till it hit the switch... try having someone push the gas pedal while you look at the wot switch. mine i basically had to mess with over and over to get it right. i will bet that if you mess with it then you will find that to be your problem... once i got it fixed i picked up over a second 1/4 mile time... mine was so bad at first it did it in every gear. but as i messed with the wot switch it progressed to only third kinda like your video. eventually where it was happy at was where once i went like 3/4 throttle then it would start to push the wot switch. and after that i was able to make full 1/4 mile passes without a issue.

it was quite funny in first gear cause when it would surge it would spray on and of and it would spin the tires like that... spin hook spin hook spin hook... off and on like that

 

oh and maybe look into nitrous outlets wot switch/ custom bracket... its much more stiff then using a solenoid bracket. i picked one up but havent had a chance to spray with the bracket on there...

 

The relay is new and i have checked all the grounds before, everything was good. My WOT switch is set in place and doesn't move, the throttle hits it everytime so i know it's not moving. I also have two bottles and switching bottles has never fixed it.

The WOT switch has been on there for 4 years, maybe it's just slowly taking a ****? They're cheap, i guess i could replace it and see what happens. At one point i thought it might have been my window switch, but now i don't run the window switch and it still does it.

 

What kind of bracket is it... I thought the same thing but if its not firmly pressing it with the gas pedal then it will have issues... Mess with it some. If its not it i will paypal u $5

 

Don't replace it. Just get rid of it. Put the nitrous on a button in the car. Keep it simple. You don't know what the switch under the hood is doing but you would know what the button in your hand is doing.

I have had a nitrous setup as simple a bottle opener with the line going straight to a dry nozzle on a car before.

Too much crap just complicates ****.

 

How about something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitrous-Tran...ht_4488wt_1185

 

Do you have any status lights wired into the system? Something to indicate the system is armed and something fed off your WOT switch to indicate the system went active.

If they blink or go out then you know it's a wiring issue. e.g. switch slowly going, wire slowly breaking up due to flex, heat, etc. It'll make life significantly easier to detect electrical gremlins.

 

have you used a test light and tested the system? I.e. have someone inside the car and have them hit the pedal and make sure the solenoids are firing? You may want to unhook them from the plate and check that way. Sometimes a solenoid will click but not actually open. I had this issue with some small solenoids. Changed the solenoids out and everything was good to go.

 

maybe put an LED in the car that is fed voltage only when the solenoids are active to see if they are loosing power. that would eliminate it to a wiring issue or fuel/nitrous flow problem. good luck with it.

 

I was having the same thing happen to me and I removed the WOT switch completely and wired into my PCM wire and have never had a problem since.
I finialy found out that when the car was under a load the WOT swtich would move on me,and believe me I had that swtich as tight as I could. It was also mounted on the TB.