Harlan Two Step relay control
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From: Greensboro, NC
Harlan Two Step relay control Ok so me and my buddy are in the garage getting the transmission back in, transbrake is installed, new stall is in well almost.
I am doing some final wiring and I got to the two step part.
I am using a Harlan two step.
I'm mainly concerned with how to connect the yellow "relay control" wire.
It supposedly connects to a 12v source that arms or sprays the nitrous and while the two step is actually limiting rpm once activated this yellow wire sends a ground signal to the 12v arming wire and cuts the nitrous off while on the two step. Once the transbrake/two step button is released the nitrous comes back on.
Would I just wire this yellow wire to the white wire on my window switch? The white wire on my window switch is spliced into the wire coming from the relay that feeds the activation side of the activation switch. The switch has it's own 12v power source and ground.
Does this sound right?
I am doing some final wiring and I got to the two step part.
I am using a Harlan two step.
I'm mainly concerned with how to connect the yellow "relay control" wire.
It supposedly connects to a 12v source that arms or sprays the nitrous and while the two step is actually limiting rpm once activated this yellow wire sends a ground signal to the 12v arming wire and cuts the nitrous off while on the two step. Once the transbrake/two step button is released the nitrous comes back on.
Would I just wire this yellow wire to the white wire on my window switch? The white wire on my window switch is spliced into the wire coming from the relay that feeds the activation side of the activation switch. The switch has it's own 12v power source and ground.
Does this sound right?
I've never had a Harlan 2 step but have used others. I'm also not sure of your wiring without seeing it. I can however give you the basic layout of what you need to do with the Transbreak, 2 step, and nitrous.
You should have a 5 wire relay that your WOT switch for your nitrous runs through. When you're at WOT with the transbreak and your 2 step activated, a 12v wire from the 2 step will energize the relay and keep your Nitrous from turning on. When you release the transbreak button, the relay will de-energize and allow the nitrous system to activate.
You should have a 5 wire relay that your WOT switch for your nitrous runs through. When you're at WOT with the transbreak and your 2 step activated, a 12v wire from the 2 step will energize the relay and keep your Nitrous from turning on. When you release the transbreak button, the relay will de-energize and allow the nitrous system to activate.
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Thanks Firehawk I think I figured it out.
I am using a window switch that has TPS activation capability so I am splicing into the blue wire on the TPS sensor instead of a WOT switch.
Since my white wire on my window switch is the activation wire(not the wire that controls the first or second stage
) but the wire that 12v is applied to when the activation switch inside the car is flipped that sends 12v to and tells the window switch when it sees what ever rpm the window switch is set at and 100% tps to engage the first or second stage.
This white activation wire since it uses 12v if ground is applied to that wire it will not be able to tell the first or second stage to engage until that ground is taken away.
That's what the yellow wire does. The harlan two step works entirely off ground. Both it's white and gray wires go to ground/momentary switch. So the yellow wire get's its ground from them and when the two step is limiting rpm it sends that ground signal to the 12v activation wire.
All that said we wrestled with and got the transmission back in(TH400's are heavy!!!)with the new pro braked trans brake in it and completely re-done stall by FTI.
Going to hook the trans brake and two step up tomorrow, get the bottles filled, maybe get my limiters installed(if my other buddy can bring his tig welder over) and finish wiring the bottle heater and arming switch and I'll be ready to shoot some gas finally!
I made a big stink about running 5's this year and now they are right around the corner!!!
I am using a window switch that has TPS activation capability so I am splicing into the blue wire on the TPS sensor instead of a WOT switch.
Since my white wire on my window switch is the activation wire(not the wire that controls the first or second stage
) but the wire that 12v is applied to when the activation switch inside the car is flipped that sends 12v to and tells the window switch when it sees what ever rpm the window switch is set at and 100% tps to engage the first or second stage.This white activation wire since it uses 12v if ground is applied to that wire it will not be able to tell the first or second stage to engage until that ground is taken away.
That's what the yellow wire does. The harlan two step works entirely off ground. Both it's white and gray wires go to ground/momentary switch. So the yellow wire get's its ground from them and when the two step is limiting rpm it sends that ground signal to the 12v activation wire.
All that said we wrestled with and got the transmission back in(TH400's are heavy!!!)with the new pro braked trans brake in it and completely re-done stall by FTI.
Going to hook the trans brake and two step up tomorrow, get the bottles filled, maybe get my limiters installed(if my other buddy can bring his tig welder over) and finish wiring the bottle heater and arming switch and I'll be ready to shoot some gas finally!
I made a big stink about running 5's this year and now they are right around the corner!!!
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Well of course now I have run into another problem.
This time it's with the grade 8 or grade 5 longer bolts that are used to hold the nitrous plate in place between the tb and intake.
The bolts won't thread into the intake. They look like coarse thread, but the old smaller short bolts do too, but they go right in without a peep. These longer ones aren't the right thread I can tell.
So I went and bought some fine thread ones and they dont thread in either! They won't even start!
So I ask WTF am I doing wrong?
This time it's with the grade 8 or grade 5 longer bolts that are used to hold the nitrous plate in place between the tb and intake.
The bolts won't thread into the intake. They look like coarse thread, but the old smaller short bolts do too, but they go right in without a peep. These longer ones aren't the right thread I can tell.
So I went and bought some fine thread ones and they dont thread in either! They won't even start!
So I ask WTF am I doing wrong?
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From: Greensboro, NC
My fast intake is ruined.
Bolt is stuck inside of it. I got the exact bolts at home depot that fit exactly as the originals did not the ones that came with the plate that I had trouble with. I guess the ones I had trouble with stripped the threads just enough for the bolt to get stuck and now the brass piece that the bolt screws into has freed itself enough to rotate with the bolt as you try to loosen it or tighten it leaving it stuck in the same position.
This is my fault, but damn I'm pretty sour right now. I don't have 1000 bucks for a new fast intake.
Tried to drill it out, messed up worse.
Bolt is stuck inside of it. I got the exact bolts at home depot that fit exactly as the originals did not the ones that came with the plate that I had trouble with. I guess the ones I had trouble with stripped the threads just enough for the bolt to get stuck and now the brass piece that the bolt screws into has freed itself enough to rotate with the bolt as you try to loosen it or tighten it leaving it stuck in the same position.
This is my fault, but damn I'm pretty sour right now. I don't have 1000 bucks for a new fast intake.
Tried to drill it out, messed up worse.
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If I can get the piece of **** bronze thread piece that is stuck in it out yes. But I have a hole drilled through the damn thing right now and I have tried to get it out every way possible and it just keeps making it worse.
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