I have a lq4 with l92 heads with a camshaft with a 100 shot with br7ef plugs haven't bought the msd box to retard the timing yet so until then I just mixed some c16 race fuel in it to be safe...I did drive the car back after the pass & drove it a couple miles once I got home so this isn't right after the pass but I don't know much about reading plugs

 

Here's something so you can learn, that way you will be able to read your plugs.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...qs/faqread.asp

 

That white stuff on the tip does it rub off?

If so can you rub it off and take another picture?

 

it didn't rub off

 

For a LSx motor get the Lingenfelter box

 

Looks lean, the insulator should have a brownish color.

 

If it didn't rub off then that's a good bit of heat on the tip.

I can't tell if it actually made it's way all the way down the strap since you drove home on them it could of burned off and only made it's way that far, there is really no way to tell.

The only reason I asked if it rubbed off is because if I make a pass and I'm really low on timing or low on heat in the chamber, it will leave a color just like that on the strap, but I can rub it off very easily with the tip of my finger and it takes 2-3 passes for it to barely burn itself onto the plug like it has on yours.

Your going to have to pull them out and snap a picture after the pass on the end of the track on the return road like I do for at least the first two passes. Then you can maybe get away with driving back to the pits if you keep the motor revved up and the plugs clean.

I know some people look at me like I am crazy revving my motor up the way I do sometimes, but I am just trying to keep the plug clean so I can get a better reading on it when I do pull it out.

I also park as close as I can to the ticket booth OR make sure I park somewhere where once I coast the car to the ticket booth, get my ticket, cut it back on, rev it up really good, slap it into 1st and get it moving into 2nd as quick as possible get enough speed going to coast back to where I am in the pits. I know it sounds shitty and it sucks to deal with, but I'd rather do it than blow my motor up.

 

sounds good...I'll do it tomorrow at the track..& thanks alot for your help

 

Darlington?

 

Rich for sure and maybe just starting to put some timing on the strap.


I would Pull 2* and lean it out, recheck.

 

What do you make of the heat on the tip that was unable to be rubbed off?

Normally I've seen if there is that coloration/dust on the tip like that I have always been able to rub it off until a pass or two later where it finally burns itself in.

 

Different fuels leave/burn different colors onto the strap.
When it gets hot it will bubble 1st (just starting to put heat mark on it) then it will burn off the color.

If you go back and look at the old plug pic I posted you can see the color and where it burns it off.

Plug in the pic above has not burned the cadium off the strap yet = no timing on strap.

 

True enough, so the actual "heat" is what I referred to as "heat bubbles" before in some of my posts(not in this thread) and not the change in color from dark purple/black unused plug strap color to the color of the tip of that plug in the op's picture?

Isn't it an indicator of beginning to show heat when the plug changes from it's unused dark purple/black color to that color on the tip of that plug in the picture?

Trying to learn and take it all in. I knew about the "heat bubbles" as I called them, just had heard differing things about being able to "wipe" that color off of the plug and if you can do that there is barely enough heat in the chamber, and once it starts to not be able to be rubbed off is where you want it to be.

 

Heat bubbles that look like they wont wipe off and I would say this plug does not have a timing mark on it yet.
Its rich !



Then here is on that has a true mark on it.
dark for about 1/8th inch or so and than a thin light brown line.
The dark color is timing mark and where Carter has it here is about as far as I like to run our stuff.
Oh and its rich.

 

ATVracr do you want the mark closer to the tip of the strap or closer to where the strap connects to the threads of the plug? sorry for the dumb noob question.

 

I've always seen that most want the mark near the bend like ATV Racer posted his pic. Closer to the tip=not enough timing, past the bend=too much timing.

 

Closer to the tip.

You dont need to run it on the edge timing wise, thats how you hurt parts.
Get the plug clean and timing barley on the tip then try less timing and see if it likes it if not then what you have power wise is all you got. If you need to go faster put more jet in it dont try to lean on the tune up to go faster.

 

OK. thank you very much for the advice. I am hoping to make it out to the track on Sunday and ill be able to post some pics of my plugs then. Is cylinder # 6 usually the hottest cylinder? Could I base my tune off # 6?

 

that's very useful information...& @fbodyjunkie I'll be taking it to Jackson if the rain holds off..I was at darlington Saturday & had a little fun up against a procharged ls7 vette

 

Your reply to my post was great info thank you Wayne.

I had heard that when you get the timing on the tip, with the heat bubbles showing then that is where you want it and not try and use timing to make more power, use more nitrous jet to make the power.

I've been tuning my plugs timing mark in between the bend and the tip just like you showed as an example on carters, mine is actually further to the tip.

Run it lean, low(er) timing than you would think, big nitrous jet. That's where the power and reliability is. Oh and not to mention that pretty blue flame