Lovin' the stock cube nitrous progress.
Send me a PM with your first and last name and I'll add you as a friend and watch them.
Did the shock settings or shock setting advice I gave you help? The 60' times seem a lot better?
Try them around 13-14psi.
Is that 28 clicks away from full loose or 28 clicks off full tight? Same on compression, 10 clicks away from full loose or 10 clicks from full tight?
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Joined: Jul 2007
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Shifting around 7k right now, been to 7500 and back with no issues so far.
Fbody junkie- The 60' I think was most attributed to the better track conditions, and the slicks. Those 325/50's just didn't work, especially on the marginal track conditions we had. So we went up on a known, "good track night", and it went pretty good. Shock settings are from full loose, I always set everything from zero and count up.. Just makes more sense.
We are going to scale the car Friday, I think there is too much weight on the nose and it's tugging on the rear shocks and unloading the back end. No matter how tight we made the shocks it didn't help.
Also, Nick just informed me that the progressive was set at 75% for the first half second. When it was supposed to be zero'd out. Saturday we go for it again.
Fbody junkie- The 60' I think was most attributed to the better track conditions, and the slicks. Those 325/50's just didn't work, especially on the marginal track conditions we had. So we went up on a known, "good track night", and it went pretty good. Shock settings are from full loose, I always set everything from zero and count up.. Just makes more sense.
We are going to scale the car Friday, I think there is too much weight on the nose and it's tugging on the rear shocks and unloading the back end. No matter how tight we made the shocks it didn't help.
Also, Nick just informed me that the progressive was set at 75% for the first half second. When it was supposed to be zero'd out. Saturday we go for it again.
Shifting around 7k right now, been to 7500 and back with no issues so far.
Fbody junkie- The 60' I think was most attributed to the better track conditions, and the slicks. Those 325/50's just didn't work, especially on the marginal track conditions we had. So we went up on a known, "good track night", and it went pretty good. Shock settings are from full loose, I always set everything from zero and count up.. Just makes more sense.
We are going to scale the car Friday, I think there is too much weight on the nose and it's tugging on the rear shocks and unloading the back end. No matter how tight we made the shocks it didn't help.
Also, Nick just informed me that the progressive was set at 75% for the first half second. When it was supposed to be zero'd out. Saturday we go for it again.
Fbody junkie- The 60' I think was most attributed to the better track conditions, and the slicks. Those 325/50's just didn't work, especially on the marginal track conditions we had. So we went up on a known, "good track night", and it went pretty good. Shock settings are from full loose, I always set everything from zero and count up.. Just makes more sense.
We are going to scale the car Friday, I think there is too much weight on the nose and it's tugging on the rear shocks and unloading the back end. No matter how tight we made the shocks it didn't help.
Also, Nick just informed me that the progressive was set at 75% for the first half second. When it was supposed to be zero'd out. Saturday we go for it again.
With a slick the tire takes more of the hit than with a radial that's when you see the slick wrinkle or wad up. You want it to absorb the hit, but not wad it completely up. I've never messed with slicks so I'm going to leave that advice to others.
I just know that the tighter the rebound you can run without spinning the faster it will go.
I don't think you really even need that progressive. I'm headed out Thursday and I'm hoping mine takes a 250 shot straight off the transbrake. It went 1.31 60' with a 150 shot delayed slightly off the transbrake, and I have a new timing curve I want to try out to really get after it in the short track.
Good luck.
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 670
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lol I do mine backwards I always state my shock settings from full tight as that's where I suggest most people start is almost full tight at least on rebound. Compression imo is dictated by what type of tire you run radial or slick. I run a very very tight compression setting actually full tight front and rear on the compression. In my experience keeping the compression really tight in the rear with a radial helps keep it planted down track after the initial extension(rebound) movement plants the tire. Also with a radial you don't want the sidewall to distort or wrinkle, so you make the compression setting tight so there is no give therefore the tire doesn't wrinkle.
With a slick the tire takes more of the hit than with a radial that's when you see the slick wrinkle or wad up. You want it to absorb the hit, but not wad it completely up. I've never messed with slicks so I'm going to leave that advice to others.
I just know that the tighter the rebound you can run without spinning the faster it will go.
I don't think you really even need that progressive. I'm headed out Thursday and I'm hoping mine takes a 250 shot straight off the transbrake. It went 1.31 60' with a 150 shot delayed slightly off the transbrake, and I have a new timing curve I want to try out to really get after it in the short track.
Good luck.
With a slick the tire takes more of the hit than with a radial that's when you see the slick wrinkle or wad up. You want it to absorb the hit, but not wad it completely up. I've never messed with slicks so I'm going to leave that advice to others.
I just know that the tighter the rebound you can run without spinning the faster it will go.
I don't think you really even need that progressive. I'm headed out Thursday and I'm hoping mine takes a 250 shot straight off the transbrake. It went 1.31 60' with a 150 shot delayed slightly off the transbrake, and I have a new timing curve I want to try out to really get after it in the short track.
Good luck.
I'm more of a newb to radials than I am slicks. I usually only play with compression for down track to keep it on top of the tire.
Hopefully we can get after it again this weekend, more small changes on the car this week to make it a little easier on us.
Thanks for all the kind words guys.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Phenix, AZ
lol I do mine backwards I always state my shock settings from full tight as that's where I suggest most people start is almost full tight at least on rebound. Compression imo is dictated by what type of tire you run radial or slick. I run a very very tight compression setting actually full tight front and rear on the compression. In my experience keeping the compression really tight in the rear with a radial helps keep it planted down track after the initial extension(rebound) movement plants the tire. Also with a radial you don't want the sidewall to distort or wrinkle, so you make the compression setting tight so there is no give therefore the tire doesn't wrinkle.
With a slick the tire takes more of the hit than with a radial that's when you see the slick wrinkle or wad up. You want it to absorb the hit, but not wad it completely up. I've never messed with slicks so I'm going to leave that advice to others.
I just know that the tighter the rebound you can run without spinning the faster it will go.
I don't think you really even need that progressive. I'm headed out Thursday and I'm hoping mine takes a 250 shot straight off the transbrake. It went 1.31 60' with a 150 shot delayed slightly off the transbrake, and I have a new timing curve I want to try out to really get after it in the short track.
Good luck.
With a slick the tire takes more of the hit than with a radial that's when you see the slick wrinkle or wad up. You want it to absorb the hit, but not wad it completely up. I've never messed with slicks so I'm going to leave that advice to others.
I just know that the tighter the rebound you can run without spinning the faster it will go.
I don't think you really even need that progressive. I'm headed out Thursday and I'm hoping mine takes a 250 shot straight off the transbrake. It went 1.31 60' with a 150 shot delayed slightly off the transbrake, and I have a new timing curve I want to try out to really get after it in the short track.
Good luck.
Fbodyjunkie,
I have a cam only car with 243 heads, pro yank 3600 converter and a 4l60 and im hitting it with a 175 shot. the best 60' i can get is 1.49. is it because my converter is too tight? i stall it up to 2000 rpm and i leave off the foot brake with a WOT switch. i just need some advice to get my 60' down
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Phenix, AZ
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 670
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Make the front end loose, and tighten the rear shocks as much as you can, and put -3 pinion angle in it.. Tires probably 12-15ish..
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Phenix, AZ
no front sway bar, the rears are second from the tightest setting and i have qa1 from shocks set to 8 from all the way tight. they are 12 way adjustable. the pinion angle is -3 or -4 and i run the slicks at 13 psi. im kinda upset that the car 60' so shitty.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 280
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From: Phenix, AZ
i gotcha. do you think my converter is way too tight for a 175-200 shot?
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The other thing is, is it a street car or straight up race car. If it's on the street, I would not put any more converter in it, because then it will suck to drive. Flashing the converter with 175-200hp worth of nitrous will loosen up the converter also. So your 3600 might be 4400 or more before it grabs the crank.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Phenix, AZ
You really have to know how it's built to know for sure. I know the one in whiteltone's car goes to 4600 on motor, but it's built as more of a nitrous converter. I would have to talk to Dave @ Yank and see what the inside of your converter looks like to know for sure. He builds a very nice piece.
The other thing is, is it a street car or straight up race car. If it's on the street, I would not put any more converter in it, because then it will suck to drive. Flashing the converter with 175-200hp worth of nitrous will loosen up the converter also. So your 3600 might be 4400 or more before it grabs the crank.
The other thing is, is it a street car or straight up race car. If it's on the street, I would not put any more converter in it, because then it will suck to drive. Flashing the converter with 175-200hp worth of nitrous will loosen up the converter also. So your 3600 might be 4400 or more before it grabs the crank.
I won't be out trying to put up a number until like sept or oct. Just not enough time and money with me being 300 miles away from the car and getting time off with school and work.
Next race is July 28th, I don't think we will be testing prior to that. We may have 26x8.5s on the car for the next race so maybe we can go some 5.80's on those tires, I think its very possible at 3300lbs. Big tuneups.... I don't know what those are...
Next race is July 28th, I don't think we will be testing prior to that. We may have 26x8.5s on the car for the next race so maybe we can go some 5.80's on those tires, I think its very possible at 3300lbs. Big tuneups.... I don't know what those are...
I didn't want the stupid thing even on there, Nick got it as part of a package deal and stuck it on there. I've told him to get it off ever since.
I'm more of a newb to radials than I am slicks. I usually only play with compression for down track to keep it on top of the tire.
Hopefully we can get after it again this weekend, more small changes on the car this week to make it a little easier on us.
Thanks for all the kind words guys.
I'm more of a newb to radials than I am slicks. I usually only play with compression for down track to keep it on top of the tire.
Hopefully we can get after it again this weekend, more small changes on the car this week to make it a little easier on us.
Thanks for all the kind words guys.
I watched the videos on his facebook and couldn't tell any thing from the videos.
Will that track not let you guys stand closer to the car when it launches?
And I agree with everything you have said so far to n20ls1cam.
If he wants to get the 60' down, he needs at least a quality single adjustable in the rear like a strange shock or afco. Double adjustable is preferred. I wouldn't give mine up for the world. I would try to keep the front as tight as possible while still transferring as much weight as he can.
You said WhiteL's converter goes 4600 on motor, mine is very very similar with full n/a timing it will go 4600-4800 when its cool outside when its hot with timing pulled it will only flash 4300-4400 on motor. On the 150 shot it flashed 5200ish and the 200 shot 5400-5500ish before it grabbed the motor. It's a 9" (230mm) core.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 280
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From: Phenix, AZ
Thanks a lot for your help guys! im going to order a set of strange rear shocks sometime this week.
Fbodyjunkie, what do you think about my converter? do you think its too tight? do you have any launching techniques you would recommend that might help me out?
Fbodyjunkie, what do you think about my converter? do you think its too tight? do you have any launching techniques you would recommend that might help me out?