Lovin' the stock cube nitrous progress.
How are you pulling timing? Are you pulling one big chunk of timing for the nitrous you are spraying or are you progressively pulling it out?
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Phenix, AZ
The only other thing I can tell you do to do is try just matting the gas off idle and setting the nitrous to come on at 3000-3200rpm.
How are you pulling timing? Are you pulling one big chunk of timing for the nitrous you are spraying or are you progressively pulling it out?
How are you pulling timing? Are you pulling one big chunk of timing for the nitrous you are spraying or are you progressively pulling it out?
I need to get a window switch, i do not have one yet.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Phenix, AZ
Here is how my nitrous activation and timing correspond.
I have all 27* of total timing in my motor up till 3600rpm. At 3600 rpm I am pulling 2*. At 4000rpm I am pulling 3*, at 4400rpm 5*, 4800rpm 6*, 5200rpm 7*, 5600rpm 8*, 6000rpm 10* from 6000rpm to redline 10* is pulled.
My converter flashes to at least 5400-5500rpm and the car does not even move off of the starting line until then(5500rpm). It doesn't really start to lock up hard until around 6000rpm and really starts pulling then.
From 3600rpm to 5500rpm there isn't much cylinder pressure being created in my car meaning there is barely any load on the engine. Keeping timing in it will really help it move off the line quickly and under power.
You need to get a data log of the car with the current tune and see where you hit 1-5mph in your data log and note what rpm you see at 1mph to 5mph. This will show and tell you where your converter flashes too and starts to lock up. When you really start seeing the mph rise and it's still in the general area of where the converter flashes(400-500rpm from flash point) that's where it couples or beings to lock up hard and is where you need to have all the timing out by, not just where you're activating the nitrous.
It's all about cylinder pressure and load on the motor.
I gained a GOOD bit by going from pulling one chunk of timing out to doing it this way, but using this method you HAVE to read plugs and you HAVE to datalog it at least once to find out where it flashes and locks up at. If you don't you're just guessing.
I have all 27* of total timing in my motor up till 3600rpm. At 3600 rpm I am pulling 2*. At 4000rpm I am pulling 3*, at 4400rpm 5*, 4800rpm 6*, 5200rpm 7*, 5600rpm 8*, 6000rpm 10* from 6000rpm to redline 10* is pulled.
My converter flashes to at least 5400-5500rpm and the car does not even move off of the starting line until then(5500rpm). It doesn't really start to lock up hard until around 6000rpm and really starts pulling then.
From 3600rpm to 5500rpm there isn't much cylinder pressure being created in my car meaning there is barely any load on the engine. Keeping timing in it will really help it move off the line quickly and under power.
You need to get a data log of the car with the current tune and see where you hit 1-5mph in your data log and note what rpm you see at 1mph to 5mph. This will show and tell you where your converter flashes too and starts to lock up. When you really start seeing the mph rise and it's still in the general area of where the converter flashes(400-500rpm from flash point) that's where it couples or beings to lock up hard and is where you need to have all the timing out by, not just where you're activating the nitrous.
It's all about cylinder pressure and load on the motor.
I gained a GOOD bit by going from pulling one chunk of timing out to doing it this way, but using this method you HAVE to read plugs and you HAVE to datalog it at least once to find out where it flashes and locks up at. If you don't you're just guessing.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Phenix, AZ
Here is how my nitrous activation and timing correspond.
I have all 27* of total timing in my motor up till 3600rpm. At 3600 rpm I am pulling 2*. At 4000rpm I am pulling 3*, at 4400rpm 5*, 4800rpm 6*, 5200rpm 7*, 5600rpm 8*, 6000rpm 10* from 6000rpm to redline 10* is pulled.
My converter flashes to at least 5400-5500rpm and the car does not even move off of the starting line until then(5500rpm). It doesn't really start to lock up hard until around 6000rpm and really starts pulling then.
From 3600rpm to 5500rpm there isn't much cylinder pressure being created in my car meaning there is barely any load on the engine. Keeping timing in it will really help it move off the line quickly and under power.
You need to get a data log of the car with the current tune and see where you hit 1-5mph in your data log and note what rpm you see at 1mph to 5mph. This will show and tell you where your converter flashes too and starts to lock up. When you really start seeing the mph rise and it's still in the general area of where the converter flashes(400-500rpm from flash point) that's where it couples or beings to lock up hard and is where you need to have all the timing out by, not just where you're activating the nitrous.
It's all about cylinder pressure and load on the motor.
I gained a GOOD bit by going from pulling one chunk of timing out to doing it this way, but using this method you HAVE to read plugs and you HAVE to datalog it at least once to find out where it flashes and locks up at. If you don't you're just guessing.
I have all 27* of total timing in my motor up till 3600rpm. At 3600 rpm I am pulling 2*. At 4000rpm I am pulling 3*, at 4400rpm 5*, 4800rpm 6*, 5200rpm 7*, 5600rpm 8*, 6000rpm 10* from 6000rpm to redline 10* is pulled.
My converter flashes to at least 5400-5500rpm and the car does not even move off of the starting line until then(5500rpm). It doesn't really start to lock up hard until around 6000rpm and really starts pulling then.
From 3600rpm to 5500rpm there isn't much cylinder pressure being created in my car meaning there is barely any load on the engine. Keeping timing in it will really help it move off the line quickly and under power.
You need to get a data log of the car with the current tune and see where you hit 1-5mph in your data log and note what rpm you see at 1mph to 5mph. This will show and tell you where your converter flashes too and starts to lock up. When you really start seeing the mph rise and it's still in the general area of where the converter flashes(400-500rpm from flash point) that's where it couples or beings to lock up hard and is where you need to have all the timing out by, not just where you're activating the nitrous.
It's all about cylinder pressure and load on the motor.
I gained a GOOD bit by going from pulling one chunk of timing out to doing it this way, but using this method you HAVE to read plugs and you HAVE to datalog it at least once to find out where it flashes and locks up at. If you don't you're just guessing.
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Phenix, AZ
I really like your hood, have you thought about cutting it back some where the cowl meets the windshield to get some more air in the engine bay? That's a pretty high pressure area right there and might pick it up some, or if you could use an air pan in conjunction with that.
trashed the block on sunday, broke the starter pad off the block. should be back out in a week or two. got a few changes to make. oh yea we CC'd the heads and w/ the pistons and gaskets i've been running, compression has been 10:1. will report back when running again.
trashed the block on sunday, broke the starter pad off the block. should be back out in a week or two. got a few changes to make. oh yea we CC'd the heads and w/ the pistons and gaskets i've been running, compression has been 10:1. will report back when running again.
Man that's two down in the past week! Brett and now yours.
I'm going to start saying a prayer before each of my runs
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 670
Likes: 1
Luckily I had a spare block sitting here for him, so we are making a couple changes. His new slugs just showed up from Diamond about 45 seconds ago, thanks Fed Ex for your speedy delivery!
