ZzTeaRs

I've.got a 94 z LT1 I'm trying to.decide on my build before I.start digging into it. after reading many many threads and seeing pictures I think nitrous might be the way to go for me.
The car won't be a DD it will be a weekend cruiser/ track car which is why I think the nitrous would be a good way to go. This is going to be my first build but i have many many friends watching over me coaching ect. Is like to get to low 12's on motor and have the bottom end and trans be able to hold a 200-300 shot with a direct kit of its possible, I'm not sure how much a small LT1 cn handle. What kind of price range am i looking at? and parts should I be looking Into?

A little side Info I'm building this car to compete with my dad for bragging rights so any help is really appreciated thanks guys

lncboytre_d

It won't take "much" to push an LT1 into the 12's on motor. There are endless combination you could put together to get the results you want, but friendly advice, do it right the first time. I am on my third shortblock because I cut corners at first. Your stock crank will hold, but if you are serious about cranking out power, getting a forged crank and rods is the way to go. Also, spend the extra money and have your block converted to a 4-bolt main. Again, that can be done and still use your stock crank. Having your stock heads worked over and a matching cam shaft will be your biggest upfront cost. With a 200-300 shot of nitrous, Forged pistons is not an option, it's a must. Direct port is a great idea, but for what you are going for, Nitrous Outlet has a plate kit that will meet/ exceed your need. Start small, 75 to 100 shot....and practice reading your plugs. With the level of nitrous you want, you may want to start learning to tune...it's not too bad. The reason I say that, yes you can get a good dyno tune, but if you are spraying 200-300 you are going to need several adjustments here and there. That will add up quick$$$$$. You will need a way to pull timing also. MSD, Mallory and Dave have some nice pieces for you.

Hope I didn't miss anything.

ZzTeaRs

Thanks for the Info. My whole thing with this build is to do it right the first time so I don't have to go back and do it agsin, same philosophy I use at work. I will definatly use the idea of starting small and working my way up. Also realize that I should startearning to read plugs. What type of pistons should i be looking Into brand wise?? Also is there a reason to convert to a 4 bolt main? If so i would like to k.ow the reason why. And from a few threads on here that i have read I will redi be going with nitrous outlet. The pictures of there work on here are beautiful. For the crank would a forged eagle stuff work? And what sort of heads and cam should i be looking at?? I will have the money for that in August. This build will be over a year and a half to 2 years so I'm not really in a giant hurry. Should i be looking into a AI package or a le2 maybe?

lncboytre_d

I still have a 2 bolt main, I spin mine to 6900.... but I would not say follow suit. Having a 4 bolt will keep your bearings from "walking" at higher rpms. Forged Eagle cranks will do just fine. I went cast on my first bottom end and had a horrible experience. Piston wise, forged SRP will hold, but if it's in the budget go with JE or Diamond. Elloyd has a nice set up, proven, but it just isn't AI. I have neither in my car, but if I do go back inside this winter, it'll definately be with a Advanced Induction head job and cam. Sounds like you have a solid plan, just looking for reassurance. Can't wait to see how you LT1 turns out.

***Just a side note, I love the LT1, but that damn LS1 platform is calling my name. Do a little research on the LS1 also. While your vehicle is under the knife you may just want to change directions. You will definately give your pops hell then.

ZzTeaRs

Haha thanks for advice and info on the mains. I was originally trying to buy a ls1 but it wasn't in the budget for me at that time. I just want to get as much info as I can before I start tearing down, but it doesn't sound like it should be to bad. The plan is to get the top end done.over the winter. Rear end and trans next summer. Then hopefully the bottom end, suspension and spray next winter. The main concern with my build idea is will it be to costly to go for 2-300 or should i just keep it low 1-200? The bottom end money really isn't a problem but i just want to make sure I'm not talking about some really really expensive stuff lol.

lncboytre_d

Your bottom end won't be happy if u add heads,cam and spray. Untouched, you are cutting corners. At the least have your crank and rods inspected and balanced, add arp bolts to your rods and mains and swap your pistons for forged ones. You can do all that for 600-800 well spent dollars if u do the work.

ZzTeaRs

Oh I won't be spraying it any time soon. Just the heads and cam with arp bolts all around new rods and as suggested the new 4 bolt mains. And i will call it good for this year. I definatly will not be adding any spray until i have the bottom end done completely ( the new lpistons, crank, ect. Just doing it in pieces is all. Saving all of the heavy stuff for the winter months because well my 3 sons ages 7,4 and 1 love to go for rides on Friday nights to go get ice cream haha. Will there be anything in the heads and cam package from Ai or Lloyd Elliot that i should ask for specifically?? And are there any transmissions that will be able to run this without a problem?? It i can I will go 4l80e if I can find one but i have not seen one while looking. So I will probably be rebuilding the trans this winter aswell. Any suggested rebuild kits that would hold up?

lncboytre_d

If you call Elloyd or AI they will set you up for success. You will never a good set if Rocker Arms. On transmissions if you have a local guy go see him, if not talk to Gilbert at Ace Racing Transmissions he built my 4l60e and i beat the **** out of it....drive it on 300 mile trips race and drive it home. Gilbert is a sponsor on here.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

While I am all for doing it as you can, having to machine a block two separate times and having to remove the pieces two separate times is going to cost x2 as much as doing it the first time.

Just my opinion and I know nothing about LT1's.

lncboytre_d

Nothing different with the cost of machining from lt to ls.... it will be twice the money spent going in it a second time. Glad you chimed in, Martin is it? OP, Martin, I think is his name, is very knowledgeable when it comes to our cars and spray LT or LS the guy knows his ****... pick his brain as much as possible during your build.

ZzTeaRs

Seems like I will have to save up the scratch and do it this winter aswell. Ths for the info guys. Isn't it bad I'm on vacation but on ls1tech on my phone talking about my car haha