nitrous AFR help
you don't need to read plugs with a 10.5 wideband 02. it will be black and look like no timing even if there is. the car will also run like a turd. get the thing to 12.0 then read the plugs.
as much as i am all for reading plugs what some of you have to remember is that 90% of people cant't read plugs correctly and im likely being generous. When someone comes in and asks a question like that, telling them to just read the plugs likely does not register real well, I would agree 100% with Shiz. and n20 12.7- 13.0 is probably where you need to be on c16 to squeeze every last bit out.
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Verdad Gallardo I know that to rich is a bad thing. Like seeing black smoke poor out the exhaust. But as far as AFR reading on a gage is concerned, what is roughly to rich? And to lean?
I thought a tad fat off the line builds a little more tq then being dead on or even a tad lean on the hit. Is this true?
I thought a tad fat off the line builds a little more tq then being dead on or even a tad lean on the hit. Is this true?
You should still read the plugs though. Widebands aren't always acurate and trying to get into the 12s before pulling the plugs can be very misleading. I'm not saying you're wrong because that is definately the norm for most, but I can show you a plug from about an 11.2 afr that doesn't even have a fuel ring. Wideband reads perfect n/a. That car would slow down from being to lean before it would even get into the 12 afr range. People hear 11.2 and will automatically think it's way too rich, but the plugs don't lie. I would broaden it up a bit and say once you're above 10.5-11.0 afr to start reading your plugs and adjust from there until it cleans up. Then take note of where the wideband is to monitor as a reference point.
the "richer makes tq" from my data is hard to prove true but its like running it 13.0 vs 13.3 on the cars i tune. they will eat like 2lb/hr more of fuel with the same timing and its so hard to tell if it 60's or 330's any better because of the timing we have to pull at the hit. maybe on a big tire/perfect track or a small jet you could see it.
I know not to trust a stupid gage when leaning it out but I like to use it to get me in the ball park and make note of minor changes in the running conditions.
I run my 13.5:1 motor on 110 leaded at around 11.5-12.5:1 at wot. With a ngk br7 plug at .035" and the plug has a slight golden color with no specs. This is killing it at wot and costing off the track.
I honestly have never leaned it out past 12.5:1 on motor. It maight pick up a little but I'm cool with were it is at now. It will run 10.10 on a bad day in 100 deg heat.
I run my 13.5:1 motor on 110 leaded at around 11.5-12.5:1 at wot. With a ngk br7 plug at .035" and the plug has a slight golden color with no specs. This is killing it at wot and costing off the track.
I honestly have never leaned it out past 12.5:1 on motor. It maight pick up a little but I'm cool with were it is at now. It will run 10.10 on a bad day in 100 deg heat.
Where ever it runs the most MPH is where the motor is most happy and will last the longest. You are not doing it any favors by running it rich. That goes for N/A and nitrous.
Everyone is worried about hurting the motor.... You will hurt it rich before you hurt it lean as long as the timing is in the ball park.
Most guys run them real rich at first then slowly lean them out over time.
Beating the rings up the whole time that its rich.
Once they start leaning out an already worn out motor and it pops they blame it on being lean.
Everyone is worried about hurting the motor.... You will hurt it rich before you hurt it lean as long as the timing is in the ball park.
Most guys run them real rich at first then slowly lean them out over time.
Beating the rings up the whole time that its rich.
Once they start leaning out an already worn out motor and it pops they blame it on being lean.
