Spark plug problem!
09-09-2012, 08:08 PM
#3
YEP plug was way too hot.
Couple things... First get a colder plug, TR6s with a 150shot is a bad idea. Plug couldnt disipate the heat, melted the strap, and cracked the ceramic.
Also go with a plug that is not a projected tip...
Then get yourself a borescope and look down the cylinders that cracked the ceramic. I had that happen once, and the ceramic got between the piston and cylinder wall and scored the wall beyond repair.
Couple things... First get a colder plug, TR6s with a 150shot is a bad idea. Plug couldnt disipate the heat, melted the strap, and cracked the ceramic.
Also go with a plug that is not a projected tip...
Then get yourself a borescope and look down the cylinders that cracked the ceramic. I had that happen once, and the ceramic got between the piston and cylinder wall and scored the wall beyond repair.
09-09-2012, 08:18 PM
#4
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No i've been running on these for awhile and had noticed my car was smelling rich lately so i finally decided to change them. I was a little shocked when i pulled them out looking like that. The plugs are laying in the order they cam out. First two being the front of motor.
09-09-2012, 08:21 PM
#5
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
YEP plug was way too hot.
Couple things... First get a colder plug, TR6s with a 150shot is a bad idea. Plug couldnt disipate the heat, melted the strap, and cracked the ceramic.
Also go with a plug that is not a projected tip...
Then get yourself a borescope and look down the cylinders that cracked the ceramic. I had that happen once, and the ceramic got between the piston and cylinder wall and scored the wall beyond repair.
Couple things... First get a colder plug, TR6s with a 150shot is a bad idea. Plug couldnt disipate the heat, melted the strap, and cracked the ceramic.
Also go with a plug that is not a projected tip...
Then get yourself a borescope and look down the cylinders that cracked the ceramic. I had that happen once, and the ceramic got between the piston and cylinder wall and scored the wall beyond repair.
09-09-2012, 08:51 PM
#7
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im not sure what my timing is, the car was tuned before i bought it, but my car has the lingenfelter box on it and when i activate system it pulls 6* of timing. Id have to look up jets again, can remember size but its what dyno tune said was a 150. I just put the br7efs in and gapped them to .035
Trending Topics
09-09-2012, 08:57 PM
#8
12 Second Club
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 1,340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Heat is what causes that. Could be too much timing or a plug that is too hot. Definitely run a br7ef, a 6 is too hot for your setup and you really want a non-projected tip plug. How much timing are you running?
09-09-2012, 09:07 PM
#9
Launching!
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: cape coral, fl
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Op says h/c/i and 150 shot id have a number 8 in that thing at a minimum without knowing more, just me though. Non the less id would not be spraying until you have checked that motor out and its been cleared to go.
09-09-2012, 09:11 PM
#10
sounds good.
I find it hard to believe yanking 6 deg you roasted those plugs like that.
Consider cross checking that your LNC2000 is activating.
Too hard to tell from a post, but I would make sure the ORANGE wire is connected to PIN87 of the nitrous/fuel solenoid relay and consider putting an LED for the YELLOW wire (one side to green wire and other to yellow) to make sure the unit is activated and GREEN is grounded.
I find it hard to believe yanking 6 deg you roasted those plugs like that.
Consider cross checking that your LNC2000 is activating.
Too hard to tell from a post, but I would make sure the ORANGE wire is connected to PIN87 of the nitrous/fuel solenoid relay and consider putting an LED for the YELLOW wire (one side to green wire and other to yellow) to make sure the unit is activated and GREEN is grounded.
09-09-2012, 09:22 PM
#11
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just a little more info on the car
Torquer v3 cam
Prc stage 1 ls6 heads
Had a weiand aluminum intake, but just put a ls6 on it
stock bottom end with arp rod bolts
racetronics fuel pump kit
bosch 36lb injectors
yank 3600ss
Flt lvl 4 4l60e
S60 rear with 3.73 & detroit locker
Full exhaust
Im not sure what the timing is set at, but i will try to figure that out in a couple days.
03EBZ06
Ill try to get the lingenfelter box checked tom. It was all professionally installed by House of Boost in Kansas City so i hope its all setup right.
Torquer v3 cam
Prc stage 1 ls6 heads
Had a weiand aluminum intake, but just put a ls6 on it
stock bottom end with arp rod bolts
racetronics fuel pump kit
bosch 36lb injectors
yank 3600ss
Flt lvl 4 4l60e
S60 rear with 3.73 & detroit locker
Full exhaust
Im not sure what the timing is set at, but i will try to figure that out in a couple days.
03EBZ06
Ill try to get the lingenfelter box checked tom. It was all professionally installed by House of Boost in Kansas City so i hope its all setup right.
09-10-2012, 06:59 AM
#12
You really need to do a leakdown test.
That porcelian from plugs #3 and #6 (if in order) went "somewhere". Without a single doubt if you borescope those 2 holes, you have some piston and chamber damage at the minimum. Worst case you scored the cylinder walls, that will eventually lead to ring land failure..
That porcelian from plugs #3 and #6 (if in order) went "somewhere". Without a single doubt if you borescope those 2 holes, you have some piston and chamber damage at the minimum. Worst case you scored the cylinder walls, that will eventually lead to ring land failure..
09-10-2012, 05:39 PM
#13
TECH Fanatic
You really need to do a leakdown test.
That porcelian from plugs #3 and #6 (if in order) went "somewhere". Without a single doubt if you borescope those 2 holes, you have some piston and chamber damage at the minimum. Worst case you scored the cylinder walls, that will eventually lead to ring land failure..
That porcelian from plugs #3 and #6 (if in order) went "somewhere". Without a single doubt if you borescope those 2 holes, you have some piston and chamber damage at the minimum. Worst case you scored the cylinder walls, that will eventually lead to ring land failure..
There is a ''small'' chance the pieces went out the exhaust, but you wont know untill you check it out.
09-11-2012, 05:00 PM
#14
Title should be: Wrong plugs = burnt tips and possibly a hurt motor..
Alot of the vendors need to take those damn plugs (for nitrous) off of their website. Also, out of the sticky section here on tech!
After dozens of plug info posted here, it's still hard to understand why people insist on using those plugs.
Alot of the vendors need to take those damn plugs (for nitrous) off of their website. Also, out of the sticky section here on tech!
After dozens of plug info posted here, it's still hard to understand why people insist on using those plugs.
10-02-2012, 03:22 AM
#15
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I drove the car a couple times since i put the br7efs in it and sprayed it twice. I developed a miss and finally got around to pulling plugs again. My #8 plug wire looks like it went to **** and won't snap on the coil like the rest. While i was at it i figued id pull the plugs again. Number 6 burnt the strap again! I think I may leave the spray alone for awhile, and now that i got the plugs out im going to check on cylinder 6 with a borescope.
Cylinder 2 & 4
Cylinder 6 (right) & 8 (left)
Cylinder 1 & 3
Cylinder 5 & 7
Cylinder 2 & 4
Cylinder 6 (right) & 8 (left)
Cylinder 1 & 3
Cylinder 5 & 7
10-02-2012, 05:35 AM
#16
#6 is hurt. sure as hell looks like a bunch of oil on it.
Do a leakdown test, it will tell you what you dont want to know. My bet is the cylinder or piston in #6 is damaged, and oil is now getting into the cylinder.
Do a leakdown test, it will tell you what you dont want to know. My bet is the cylinder or piston in #6 is damaged, and oil is now getting into the cylinder.
Last edited by ATwelveSec02Z28; 10-02-2012 at 05:43 AM.
10-02-2012, 09:11 AM
#17
Here is most likely what happened.
You burnt #6 up with the projected tip plugs due to pre-ignition.
It was hurt after that and most likely got a ring land which let oil into the chamber causing detonation after the fact.
Even after switching to the colder plug you had already hurt it and when you sprayed it this time, oil got into the cylinder and caused detonation which melted the strap again.
These motors can take some abuse when the tune is spot on, but as soon as you get too much heat in the plug or in the piston they break the ring land then all hell breaks loose once you get oil in the chamber.
You burnt #6 up with the projected tip plugs due to pre-ignition.
It was hurt after that and most likely got a ring land which let oil into the chamber causing detonation after the fact.
Even after switching to the colder plug you had already hurt it and when you sprayed it this time, oil got into the cylinder and caused detonation which melted the strap again.
These motors can take some abuse when the tune is spot on, but as soon as you get too much heat in the plug or in the piston they break the ring land then all hell breaks loose once you get oil in the chamber.
10-03-2012, 08:13 AM
#20
Yep there is detonation written all over that piston.
See the edges of the piston where it's all nicked up and chipped away? That's where the oil got past and into the combustion chamber. Before you melted the straps off the TR6's detonation occurred and started to chip away at the piston to the point it turned into pre-ignition which then melted the straps off the plugs.
It's too hot of a plug and it places the strap too far into the combustion chamber and this is what happens.
Even though you might be able to get away with it for a while this will happen one day if you continue to do it.
Kind of like what happened to camscam...he will tell you he got too comfortable with that plug and that tune-up and finally after a long time of using it, it bit him in the ***.
This is why we preach cold non projected tip plugs, low timing and leaner afr's which is much safer than a hot plug, rich afr's and more timing.
It also looks like the piece of exhaust valve that broke hit the piston and took a chunk out of it.
See the edges of the piston where it's all nicked up and chipped away? That's where the oil got past and into the combustion chamber. Before you melted the straps off the TR6's detonation occurred and started to chip away at the piston to the point it turned into pre-ignition which then melted the straps off the plugs.
It's too hot of a plug and it places the strap too far into the combustion chamber and this is what happens.
Even though you might be able to get away with it for a while this will happen one day if you continue to do it.
Kind of like what happened to camscam...he will tell you he got too comfortable with that plug and that tune-up and finally after a long time of using it, it bit him in the ***.
This is why we preach cold non projected tip plugs, low timing and leaner afr's which is much safer than a hot plug, rich afr's and more timing.
It also looks like the piece of exhaust valve that broke hit the piston and took a chunk out of it.