A couple melted spark plugs
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From: middle of nowhere, Kansas
Good news, I have a new PB and broke into the 10s (10.95 @ 122.6 mph). Bad news, I melted a couple plugs. Yeah, probably should have pulled a couple more degrees of timing. The car did not go lean, maybe a little rich with AFR in the low 11s. Here is a pic of one burnt plug and one good plug for a comparison. I plan to check compression tomorrow. Any chance there is no additional damage? The only code it threw was P0101 MAF.
^ it prob beat around inside the chamber till it found its way out of the exhaust valve. I'd check the compression in case it got the valve. In all reality it prob just spit it out though
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Your plugs are hard to see, but...
Looks like too much spark. One on the left seems to have detonation specs all over porcelain and the ground strap looks fully heated to the base.
That said, are you shooting across the MAF? If you do, expect the PCM to see excessively cold air coming in and possibly ADD spark. Just a guess
based on your P0101 code. I would also wonder if the MAF is still in working order.
I melted so many plugs in my 302 Mustang, I didn't have any idea how it could live, but it always did. Usually stuff like that goes out the exhaust.
I would check compression. If good, see if you can blow an air gun in there while piston up top and make sure no chunks still in there.
Looks like too much spark. One on the left seems to have detonation specs all over porcelain and the ground strap looks fully heated to the base.
That said, are you shooting across the MAF? If you do, expect the PCM to see excessively cold air coming in and possibly ADD spark. Just a guess
based on your P0101 code. I would also wonder if the MAF is still in working order.
I melted so many plugs in my 302 Mustang, I didn't have any idea how it could live, but it always did. Usually stuff like that goes out the exhaust.
I would check compression. If good, see if you can blow an air gun in there while piston up top and make sure no chunks still in there.
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My nitrous system is a wet plate, so no, I am not spraying through the MAF. I had a buddy tell me with the cooler dry weather last weekend, I should have pulled a couple more degrees of timing and I agree. But, hindsight is 20/20 of course. As stated in my first post, I plan to do a compression check. I'd like to check out the cylinders with a borescope, but I can't find one locally. I guess if the compression test indicates a problem, I'll pull the heads off.
Once the fueling is good we dont mess with it much because of weather.
If its hot and the air sucks add timing, if its cold and air is good take some out. Fueling will stay pretty consistant.
JMO.
Sounds good. The weather is getting cooler down here finally, so I should get a chance to run in some cold air this winter.
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11 Second Club
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Guess it was wishful thinking for me to hope it was only a couple of melted plugs. I have zero compression in #5 cylinder. Presumably, I'll have to pull the head off to see what happened.
FYI: I once overheated a cylinder. Thought the cylinder was a gonner--and it was. Turns out the valve guide overheated too, galled and valve would not fully close. Not telling you how to work on your car, but I would pull all 16 valves out while the heads are off.
the plus have alot of run time on them so its hard to see but i would bet to much timming and rich....thats what everyone ends up with . the kits are jetted to rich from the jet charts sent out and people go from the 2 degrees per 50 rule but have no idea from what and that 40* air to 100* air is ~ 5-6* worth of change you need to keep up with...






