bo0oost

I was curious what you guys think about this. I saw your posts on the other board saying wet system being not a good system for LS1 (that it's only made for carb cars, and that on fuel injected cars, the only way to do it is direct port, otherwise the fuel distribution isn't equal).

I was thinking of going wet, because my motor is 10.8:1, and the only gas here is 91 octane. I'd like to remain running pump.

I also just want to run a 100 shot.

Do you think Venom, since it pulses the injectors, and turns off if too lean, would be a good system for me? Everyone has recommended I go wet for the added safety, but if Venom has shut the system down from a lean condition, that seems to be the safest yet.

I'd love to hear your opinion. My heads/cam setup makes 448rwhp, so I'm guessing with the 100 shot, I'll be in the 550rwhp range. I have 28# injectors, stock fuel pump. I know I'll need a new pump, what do you think about the injectors?

Thanks!

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

If going to a dry kit youll nee fuel pump, 36 lb injectors and tuning for the bigger injectors. If you are partial to a wet kit...get it. You will be just fine running that size shot. Although I dont know about structurally(bottom end).

1slowCamaro

Before I had a supercharger I was looking at nitrous kits and I really wanted the Venom. People told me not to get it because they heard it had bugs in its software and people had wrecked their motors because of it. So then I got an NX kit. While I do like the NX kit I wish I would have gotten the Venom because I dont think those rumors were true at all. The Venom lets you configure exactly how and when the nitous is injected and turned off and to do that with the NX kit you need the Maximizer which is another 500 bucks. My wet NX kit gave me 440RWHP and 525RWTQ! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> That was with a 150 shot. The bad news is that when I changed my plugs I found that one bank was running way leaner than the other and I had melted the tip off of one of my TR6s. So there is a slight problem with uneven distribution with the wet kits. I'd say go with the Venom if you're going for more than a 75 shot or get that direct port system NOS just came out with. Good luck.

Justin

The Guy in MY 99TA

I have a NX wet kit and PERSONALLY I would rather have a dry. I would not have gotten the wet kit but my parents gave it to me for Christmas so I'm gunna hang on to it for a while and I'll probably trade it off for a dry kit later.

If you want a wet kit go with the NOS or the new NX nossle set ups OR go with a Direct Port(my favorite).

I beleive the Venom is going to be safer than your regular one nozzle wet kit( tnt included) b/c of the fact that fuel will puddle in the intake.

Josh S.

bo0oost

The thing about the Venom is that it pulses your injectors for more flow.. if the fuel doesn't match the nitrous, it shuts it off. Very safe kit.

It also gets plumbled AFTER your MAF, so that the venom does all the calculating itself, and doesn't rely on the maf.

No puddling, even distribution of fuel into each cylinder, and a system advanced enough to shut itself off if it see problems.

I just wish it could also shut off if it reads knock...

Magnus357

The problem with the Venom is that is uses the stock O2s for its monitoring. That is a SHITTY idea. The stock O2s are NOT designed to be read/intrupreted in this way.

You say you feel it's safe because it adds pulsewidth to the injectors? I see it exactly the other way. With a normal dry kit the computer adds pulsewidth to keep up with the N2O's demand for more fuel; however, with the Venom kit the computer is not in the know. How can the kit tell if it's maxing your injectors or not? It'll send all the pulsewidth it thinks you need (the data used to determine if you need more is the O2s, which I've already stated aren't designed to be used that way), but if you're already maxing your injectors the Venom wont just stop adding pulsewidth. Because the pulsewidth is added without the aid/knowledge of the computer, even when Autotapping I don't think you'd see true injector duty. In other words, you really have NO idea what your injectors are doing.

I also can't see how this kit would more evenly distribute the N20 to all cylinders. The only way to insure even distribution is to use a direct port kit. The LS1/LS6 manifold were never designed to flow fuel so uneven distribution is something that ALL non-direct port kits have to deal with.

I know I sound like I'm slamming this kit, but I'm really not. I'm sure it's a good kit; however, I think you could accomplish the same things it does with other and CHEAPER kits.

The bottom line about safety is that in the end the N2O solenoid opens and closes mechanicly, and therefore every system is subject to the same failure rate. You wanna be safe? Put 2 N2O solenoids in line with each other and check them for operation often. That's the safest thing to do.

The NOS kit with a fuel preasure switch, window switch, N20 controler, and new injectors will work JUST as well as the Vemon kit if not BETTER. And in reality the cost of the injectors is a wash because you'll really need new injectors to run ANY dry kit safely.

In my opinion, wet kits offer a better set up for the price. This is solely because they add the fuel and take the injectors out the the equation. This also elminates some of the cost of upgrading injectors.

- Matt <img border="0" alt="[shoot]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

The Guy in MY 99TA

Matt you have several points there. As far as maxing the fuel system out ANY power adder will do that no matter what. I am not fond of the wet kit b/c of fuel puddling in the intake.

I would agree that there are cheaper sources of nitrous that are just as good. But if you are worried about maxing stock parts out power adders are not the way to go.

If you want a relatively safe and reliable kit for a good price either a NOS Dry 5177 or a direct port system.

Josh S.

Ling_650vette

iTrader: (1)

seems TNTs wet kits are pretty well recommended among wet shot ppl. And i believe some of the faster wet shot cars, are using TNT systems...like ARE and MTI. I might be wrong tho...Personally, i've always liked wet shots, like the saying goes, she's always better when she's wet <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> (no offense to the female members of the board, just having a lil fun)

bo0oost

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ling_650vette:
<strong> seems TNTs wet kits are pretty well recommended among wet shot ppl. And i believe some of the faster wet shot cars, are using TNT systems...like ARE and MTI. I might be wrong tho...Personally, i've always liked wet shots, like the saying goes, she's always better when she's wet <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> (no offense to the female members of the board, just having a lil fun) </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The problem with wet kits, is you can't get an even distribution of fuel to each cyl with our manifolds, unless if it's direct port.

NicD

iTrader: (7)

I for one am so tired of hearing all these people say that fuel will puddle in the intake. With your avg shot size of 75-150 it will not. Even with larger shot sizes it really doesn't happen. I have tuned some cars here in phoenix with LS1edit on a wideband and the part I really hate about dry kits is their non-adjustability. Its almost like they will have to use another flash from LS1edit when they want to use the nitrous. From what I have seen on the wideband usually the dry kits run leaner than the wet kits and therefore are a bit more dangerous IMO.

<img border="0" alt="[shoot]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" /> dry kits