Nitrous back fire
Nitrous back fire Shooting fireballs on the initial hit.? Not sure why it's doing that any suggestions on what to check..? 125 shot running 110 gas w tr6 plugs.. Need to get it figured out ASAP
ATV, it doesn't help that the stickies still show a "TR6" as the plug to run. If that was changed, maybe we wouldn't have so many guys coming on here using them.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,058
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TR6s are designed to protrude in to the combustion chamber to maintain an efficient cylinder burn. This is wonderful for a fuel efficient street car. Engine AFR and timing create the explosion that creates heat, so no need to stick a hot pocker in the chamber with nitrous. That little ceramic tip protruding in to the cylinder is white because it gets so hot nothing short of metal (piston, valve, head pieces) will stick to it or should I say melt, then cool to it. If thats not enough, there is always the super-brain that throws too much spark at his nitrous engine. Add these two together and you get pre-ignition,and who knows if lucky enough maybe dieseling like a top fuel car. I could be wrong, but thats my opinion on protruding plugs and nitrous.
The TR6s are intended for low rpm burn and street driving and do a great job at that. I have also used them for nitrous, but not the best choice.
Now, regarding your fireballs. That is awesome and a video is required. : )
I'm guessing you are spewing fuel in the exhaust. Could your mix be to rich?
Maybe plugs being blown out? Wide gap?
More data needed. Suggest a BR7EF plug tight gap.
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,548
Likes: 1
When shooting nitrous, you want to avoid excessive heat production.
TR6s are designed to protrude in to the combustion chamber to maintain an efficient cylinder burn. This is wonderful for a fuel efficient street car. Engine AFR and timing create the explosion that creates heat, so no need to stick a hot pocker in the chamber with nitrous. That little ceramic tip protruding in to the cylinder is white because it gets so hot nothing short of metal (piston, valve, head pieces) will stick to it or should I say melt, then cool to it. If thats not enough, there is always the super-brain that throws too much spark at his nitrous engine. Add these two together and you get pre-ignition,and who knows if lucky enough maybe dieseling like a top fuel car. I could be wrong, but thats my opinion on protruding plugs and nitrous.
The TR6s are intended for low rpm burn and street driving and do a great job at that. I have also used them for nitrous, but not the best choice.
Now, regarding your fireballs. That is awesome and a video is required. : )
I'm guessing you are spewing fuel in the exhaust. Could your mix be to rich?
Maybe plugs being blown out? Wide gap?
More data needed. Suggest a BR7EF plug tight gap.
TR6s are designed to protrude in to the combustion chamber to maintain an efficient cylinder burn. This is wonderful for a fuel efficient street car. Engine AFR and timing create the explosion that creates heat, so no need to stick a hot pocker in the chamber with nitrous. That little ceramic tip protruding in to the cylinder is white because it gets so hot nothing short of metal (piston, valve, head pieces) will stick to it or should I say melt, then cool to it. If thats not enough, there is always the super-brain that throws too much spark at his nitrous engine. Add these two together and you get pre-ignition,and who knows if lucky enough maybe dieseling like a top fuel car. I could be wrong, but thats my opinion on protruding plugs and nitrous.
The TR6s are intended for low rpm burn and street driving and do a great job at that. I have also used them for nitrous, but not the best choice.
Now, regarding your fireballs. That is awesome and a video is required. : )
I'm guessing you are spewing fuel in the exhaust. Could your mix be to rich?
Maybe plugs being blown out? Wide gap?
More data needed. Suggest a BR7EF plug tight gap.
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Fire out exhaust or intake? intake is normally lean. exhaust can go either way.It would need to be way off for it to be lean. I assume the car also does not pull when the fireball shoots out. timming issues can cause it but 4 from 28 should not be your issue.
The only time I've ever popped one through the intake is from valve float (getting fuel back in the manifold, then igniting), and pulling too much timing on the hit. Every time I have popped out the exhaust has been directly related to ignition. Burnt rotor button, plugs too old, too much plug gap.... basically a weak spark.
Watch the hood at the end of the run. BOOM!!!
Watch the hood at the end of the run. BOOM!!!
Well I put br7ef tonight.. My system is pretty simple I'm running motor and nitrous on same pump. But I just bought everything to run separate fuel for nitrous.. What do y'all use to upload videos so I can show y'all??
The only time I've ever popped one through the intake is from valve float (getting fuel back in the manifold, then igniting), and pulling too much timing on the hit. Every time I have popped out the exhaust has been directly related to ignition. Burnt rotor button, plugs too old, too much plug gap.... basically a weak spark.
Watch the hood at the end of the run. BOOM!!!
http://youtu.be/z6jGbivOAdE
Watch the hood at the end of the run. BOOM!!!
http://youtu.be/z6jGbivOAdE
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