Posted this in the Dyno section but figured I'd post here also.

I have a 2002 M6 TA with 35k miles on the clock. My old dyno #s before i swapped to 3.90 gears and to Br7 plugs were 453/413 to the wheels. The motor tnite put down 423/403 to the wheels... Thought it was kind of odd that I lost that much power, but it hauls *** on the motor as is... Anyways, below are my mods.

Stock bottom end Ls1
T56 Monster Level 2
AI 226cc Ls6 heads 63cc chambers
.040 gaskets 11.1:1 compression
Tv2 cam
FAST 92/92
TSP 1 3/4 Lts, ORY, Slp exhaust
3.90 gears
Racetronix 255 Pump with hotwire
Water injection
Dynotune nozzle wet kit
1000psi bottle pressure
Window switch 3000-6200
91 pump gas

We started with the recommended 150 jetting from Dynotune but it only yielded 105 to the wheels with 5* pulled. After a few jet swaps we ended up running a 70N/40F jet set up and pulling 9* which according to the calculator is good for around a 220 shot... Whats interesting is that the HP and TQ made exactly the same peak power... Any thoughts on this? Overall im very pleased with the numbers and the AFR was very safe in the 11.2-11.5 range.

572WHP 572WTQ

 

So you gained about 150 rwhp on a 220 shot correct? Stock bottom end?

 

Pretty sure that Dynotune rates their shots at the flywheel, not positive on that.

This gives me some motivation to stick to adding nitrous to my car over winter. Been thinking about selling off all my n/a stuff and going turbo. But I just don't want to yet.

 

Their nozzles may only flow 150 hp..do you have a link to the nitrous system on their website?

-Garrett

 

I think there is some power left on the table with that tune up. We call a 73N a 175HP jet for reference.

 

https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/stor...?idproduct=231

That is the kit on my car. I also upgraded to their larger .091 orifice nitrous solenoid in order to run 150+... We were all kind of wondering if the lines or nozzle had reached their limit because we went from a 62N jet to the 70N and only picked up 10whp...

 

Yeah looks like I put down 150 to the tire from the jet spread I ended up with. And yes, stock bottom end Ls1

 

Just spoke with Dynotune about the flow limitations of the kit and they said their nozzle is good for just under 200hp and my problem is most likely a combination of too much timing being pulled, along with the -3AN line from the noid to the nozzle being too small...

They are sending me out a -4AN line to test with and see if it picks up power.

 

That is a good point. 3an will only flow right around 150. Too much timing also results in a very minute loss in power too. Best of luck, let us know if you have anymore questions!

-Garrett

 

Thanks for all your input! What do you think of both HP and TQ making the same power? I thought it was kind of odd...

 

That all depends on the nature of the motor, the RPM's the nitrous comes in at and things like that. A lower RPM nitrous pull will show alot more torque on the dyno. Boosted motors will make alot more torque than horsepower. Once you get that bigger line in, the car should pick up for sure! Best of luck, let me know if you come across anymore questions.

That is pretty funny that it made the same exact hp/tq numbers!


-Garrett

 

Leave the timing alone and lean it out more, there is still a good bit of power there. 11.2 A/F on a 200 shot is not what I would call "safe".
I would also go to a #8 plug.
Pulling 9* from what total ?

 

Post the dyno graph with the A/F at the bottom if you have it.

 

I'm with ATVracr. Overly rich a/f like that is not what I would call safe either. If it were me I would go to an #8 plug as stated. Pull a few more degrees timing and start leaning it way out. I usually shoot for 12.4-12.6 a/f (on the street or track not dyno) and then start looking at plugs to get fuel perfect and timing right.

 

Timing is 28* in the PE table. So running the shot with 19* total. Given that i only made 150whp over NA, should I be pulling less timing? And the dyno shop staff was so adamant about running in the low 11s for nitrous... Which from reading over on YB is not whats ideal.


I have a 1968 GTO running a 350 shot and the AFR is 12.5 as is the NA tune.. But it is also a dedicated nitrous motor... So it was a bit hard to go leaner on my daily driver...

 

Owning a car like the GTO you should know better... lol

Seems to me everyone is always super aggressive with timing but scared to death of a lean A/F ratio.
I'd much rather run any car even my DD at 12.5 A/F and soft on timing then 11.5 and aggressive with timing.
That is JMO.

I would get some #8 plugs and start tuning at the track by the plugs.
Dyno wont show you a true timing mark and usually the A/F is off alittle because the load is not the same.

Good luck.

 

Thanks for all the advice, and I will put it to use!

 

How's the clutch?

I'm surprised the 2 is holding that, as it's exceeded at that level, and Monster doesn't even recommend a 2 for nitrous. Just curious. I loved mine, but wasn't running a shot either.

 

Im just as surprised as you are! I really didnt think it would hold up past a 100 shot but its working just fine with no slip!

The dyno software has a slip% function and it detected zero slip on the runs... So all is good (for now)

 

Awesome man! Good to hear!

Can't wait to see what she puts down when all is fine tuned and dialed in!