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Have a question about how sensitive are your nitrous solenoids to pressure. At 900 psi my solenoids work great but at 1000 they stick closed. Is this common, in Florida the heat does get hot lol. I do put a wet towel on my bottles to keep the temps down. I have a dual stage so its both nitrous solenoids stick (thought it might be a bad noid but unlikely both bad? They are new and only have 2-3 bottle thru them. They are Cold Fusion noids, the bigger ones.
I did redo my wiring to a heavier gauge (supply wire) and made sure grounds are good.
I have relays to both kits and the fuel side always work. The noids are mounted on the heads and I noticed are very hot to touch when my car is running. Not sure if mounting them on my Fast intake would help any or do I just need a better solenoid? Any difference in a high amp or low amp noid? open to any suggestions. Not sure if it makes a difference but my noids are the style that has a small flat side on the cap.
thanks, its been a while for me to use nitrous and I thought the same thing. I might try disconnecting them next time they stick and jump them directly to the battery to test them and see if they open.
With your geographicaly location and it being summer, it could be a number of things. High bottle pressure. How are you verfying the bottle pressue? Certified gauge? It could be a weak solenoid coil from being heat soaked, or low voltage issues.
I'll have to get a pic later tonight. I have the inexpensive small brackets. 4 and have the nods on them and then they are bolted to the heads. Nitrous on pass side, fuel on drivers side. I'm using an auto meter gauge I can see all the time. Heat makes sense. I'm going to run a long jumper wire to the nitrous noid when it does it again and tap it to see if that makes it come on to check wiring.
Have a question about how sensitive are your nitrous solenoids to pressure. At 900 psi my solenoids work great but at 1000 they stick closed. Is this common, in Florida the heat does get hot lol. I do put a wet towel on my bottles to keep the temps down. I have a dual stage so its both nitrous solenoids stick (thought it might be a bad noid but unlikely both bad? They are new and only have 2-3 bottle thru them. They are Cold Fusion noids, the bigger ones.
I did redo my wiring to a heavier gauge (supply wire) and made sure grounds are good.
I have relays to both kits and the fuel side always work. The noids are mounted on the heads and I noticed are very hot to touch when my car is running. Not sure if mounting them on my Fast intake would help any or do I just need a better solenoid? Any difference in a high amp or low amp noid? open to any suggestions. Not sure if it makes a difference but my noids are the style that has a small flat side on the cap.
plate is a dual stage Nitrous Outlet 102mm
Some solenoids have weaker magnets than others. Also, where the solenoids are mounted can also play a role. As the solenoids get hotter, they are harder to open.
I mount my nitrous noids outside the engine bay to avoid this. Use to have problems with them not opening at higher bottle pressure but now where they are mounted in a cooler/vibration free enviroment they always open. I left the fuel noid under the hood.
Ok I do not recommend anybody to leave a bottle in the hot car. So to test I had my trunk open for the bottle to get hot. Wow About 1250 psi on gauge. Started car and bingo the noids work. so it looks like heat soak on the noida is the culprit I'm guessing. Head must be transferring heat to bracket which is attached to the noids.
UGGHHHH!!! well I thought everything was working, go to the track to try it and after 2 passes to test new tires I'm ready to hit it. NOPE! stuck closed. Do feel hot but dang everything is hot under my hood. Bottle pressure was about 950 psi. So today again in the hot sun 1100 psi, they work great but engine is cold. These Cold Fusion noids must suck. I've had issues from day one and always blamed something else. Thought bad power lead one night, fix that and then again nope. So I thought maybe switch, nope, swapped out my relays and how it was powered, nope. So I see I was battling noids that just will not open when hot. I didnt think both noids would be bad but maybe they where. Just wondering if the ones on ebay are seconds maybe. I paid 140.00 for 2, 1 fuel 1 nitrous. On their website there 196.00 for the pair.
What pisses me off is that I didnt think I was cheaping out as I have the NX efi standalone and Nitrousoutlet 102mm 2 stage plate, and their bottle heaters. I run 2, and their ashtray panel setup for a foxbody. Might try one more time and mount them on the firewall and see. or just buy new ones
something I noticed is that Cold Fusion draws 12 amps on their website and some others draw 25 amps. Does the higher amperage help powering the magnets (coils). maybe thats what I need.
06-18-2015, 08:07 AM
Solenoid sticking and nitrous pressure 
