This cam for nitrous and how to be safe? Newb.
#1
This cam for nitrous and how to be safe? Newb.
So right now my car has the very radical MS4 cam. I have talked to EPS about a much more fuel efficient cam with good spring longevity and Geoff specced out a 222/230 114 +2 LSA cam. I am loosely considering nitrous in the future and I was wondering how this cam would perform on the spray? It wont influence the specs I ask for but I figured it would be nice to know anyway.
Provided I were to get a kit I would be utterly paranoid to use it and definitely wouldn't spray anything larger than a 100 shot- probably even smaller because I simply wouldn't have the funds to replace my engine should something go wrong. What I do have the funds for and am potentially willing to spend for is to do a kit right with ALL of the safety features. But since I am also completely new to nitrous, I would want one that had the least chance for something to go wrong and/or the least day to day maintenance. So is my choice wet or dry? With a dry kit, how often do I need to check my MAF? With wet, how can I completely minimize the possibility of a nitrous backfire? I would gladly go direct port but I've heard it is a waste for the small amount I would be spraying. Is this true? Could I use my stock Ls6 intake?
Finally, is there anyone who has routinely sprayed their same set up for 30-50k miles? Yes nitrous does get a bad rap for people not having it set up properly but every time I try to find a thread of someone who has consistently sprayed their setup over the life of the car, I just get threads about nitrous use on a high mileage car which is not the same thing. I'd love consistent proof that there are people out there spraying away for tens of thousands of miles with absolutely no issue.
Provided I were to get a kit I would be utterly paranoid to use it and definitely wouldn't spray anything larger than a 100 shot- probably even smaller because I simply wouldn't have the funds to replace my engine should something go wrong. What I do have the funds for and am potentially willing to spend for is to do a kit right with ALL of the safety features. But since I am also completely new to nitrous, I would want one that had the least chance for something to go wrong and/or the least day to day maintenance. So is my choice wet or dry? With a dry kit, how often do I need to check my MAF? With wet, how can I completely minimize the possibility of a nitrous backfire? I would gladly go direct port but I've heard it is a waste for the small amount I would be spraying. Is this true? Could I use my stock Ls6 intake?
Finally, is there anyone who has routinely sprayed their same set up for 30-50k miles? Yes nitrous does get a bad rap for people not having it set up properly but every time I try to find a thread of someone who has consistently sprayed their setup over the life of the car, I just get threads about nitrous use on a high mileage car which is not the same thing. I'd love consistent proof that there are people out there spraying away for tens of thousands of miles with absolutely no issue.
#4
The cam that EPS spec'd would be great for nitrous. With a dry nitrous system, you're going to have to compensate by adding fuel through the injectors. Depending on the mods you already have done to the car, your injectors may not be able to keep up with much. Also, you'd have to switch between tunes for nitrous and N/A driving which can sometimes become a hassle. Personally, I'd recommend the following:
Nitrous Outlet wet plate system w/10lb bottle
Purge
Heated bracket
Bottle gauge
NOS Mini progressive controller
Lingenfelter LNC2000
Fuel pressure safety switch
NGK BR7EF plugs
Nitrous Outlet wet plate system w/10lb bottle
Purge
Heated bracket
Bottle gauge
NOS Mini progressive controller
Lingenfelter LNC2000
Fuel pressure safety switch
NGK BR7EF plugs
#5
What about a window switch? I neglected to state the car is an M6. It also has 36 lbs injectors so I imagine that's enough fuel.
How about how to avoid a nitrous backfire? Are they very rare? Are there some kits more prone to it than others? Ill post the rest of the cars specs in a bit.
Edit- parts are as follows:
TSP Magic Stick 4 Cam 239/242 .649"/609" 111 LSA
GM LS6 Race Heads- 61.9cc, 250cc Intake, 85cc exhaust
Yella Terra Rockers 1.7:1 Ratio
PRC Dual Valve Springs w/Titanium Retainers. Previous owner says the springs only have 300 miles on them.
Thunder Racing Hardened Pushrods 7.4"
GM CTS-V Race lifters (GM 88958689)
ARP Rod and Main bolts
Powerband Underdrive Pulley
BBK 80mm Throttle Body
36# injectors
Ported MAF
Jet Hot 1 7/8" Longtube Headers
4.10s
How about how to avoid a nitrous backfire? Are they very rare? Are there some kits more prone to it than others? Ill post the rest of the cars specs in a bit.
Edit- parts are as follows:
TSP Magic Stick 4 Cam 239/242 .649"/609" 111 LSA
GM LS6 Race Heads- 61.9cc, 250cc Intake, 85cc exhaust
Yella Terra Rockers 1.7:1 Ratio
PRC Dual Valve Springs w/Titanium Retainers. Previous owner says the springs only have 300 miles on them.
Thunder Racing Hardened Pushrods 7.4"
GM CTS-V Race lifters (GM 88958689)
ARP Rod and Main bolts
Powerband Underdrive Pulley
BBK 80mm Throttle Body
36# injectors
Ported MAF
Jet Hot 1 7/8" Longtube Headers
4.10s
#7
FormerVendor
iTrader: (2)
What about a window switch? I neglected to state the car is an M6. It also has 36 lbs injectors so I imagine that's enough fuel.
How about how to avoid a nitrous backfire? Are they very rare? Are there some kits more prone to it than others? Ill post the rest of the cars specs in a bit.
Edit- parts are as follows:
TSP Magic Stick 4 Cam 239/242 .649"/609" 111 LSA
GM LS6 Race Heads- 61.9cc, 250cc Intake, 85cc exhaust
Yella Terra Rockers 1.7:1 Ratio
PRC Dual Valve Springs w/Titanium Retainers. Previous owner says the springs only have 300 miles on them.
Thunder Racing Hardened Pushrods 7.4"
GM CTS-V Race lifters (GM 88958689)
ARP Rod and Main bolts
Powerband Underdrive Pulley
BBK 80mm Throttle Body
36# injectors
Ported MAF
Jet Hot 1 7/8" Longtube Headers
4.10s
How about how to avoid a nitrous backfire? Are they very rare? Are there some kits more prone to it than others? Ill post the rest of the cars specs in a bit.
Edit- parts are as follows:
TSP Magic Stick 4 Cam 239/242 .649"/609" 111 LSA
GM LS6 Race Heads- 61.9cc, 250cc Intake, 85cc exhaust
Yella Terra Rockers 1.7:1 Ratio
PRC Dual Valve Springs w/Titanium Retainers. Previous owner says the springs only have 300 miles on them.
Thunder Racing Hardened Pushrods 7.4"
GM CTS-V Race lifters (GM 88958689)
ARP Rod and Main bolts
Powerband Underdrive Pulley
BBK 80mm Throttle Body
36# injectors
Ported MAF
Jet Hot 1 7/8" Longtube Headers
4.10s
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#8
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
i'll jump in. about to put a proton kit on my m6 ls1 gto.
i have ms3 cam
ai 241 / 219cc heads
42lb green tops
92 / 92 intake combo with fuel rails
twin disc clutch
was thinking about changing up the cam, but if the powers that
be think the ms3 cam would work well in the upper rpm ranges
with spray, i may keep it in there.
i have ms3 cam
ai 241 / 219cc heads
42lb green tops
92 / 92 intake combo with fuel rails
twin disc clutch
was thinking about changing up the cam, but if the powers that
be think the ms3 cam would work well in the upper rpm ranges
with spray, i may keep it in there.
#18
TECH Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Howell & Fenton MI
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If you're talking a brand new kit will all the basic bells and whistles then you're probably going to be in the $1200 range give or take a few. Install might be around $500 or so I'm guessing