spray and boost
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: brainerd mn
spray and boost I have a stroked ls1 thats boosted and picked up a plate for cheap thinking about running it not sure of 50-100 shot wet what are good selenoid to run? Also my fuel setup right now is 1/2in feed line ying off to 8an feeds into each rail should I just tap one of my rails for the feed also do I need to run a seperate fpr got the selenoid feed? Since my current one is boost reference? Couldn't find what I was looking for answer wise or a thread on how to setup fuel to it thanks in advance car is currently making 608hp 656tq to the wheels
Solenoid choice isn't important at the power level you are talking. Just make sure if you do get "cheap" noids that the nitrous noid doesn't see much heat. Fuel solenoid you can put anywhere. You can come off the rails for the nitrous feed but I like to tee off of the 1/2 line to make sure you don't starve the 1 or 2 cylinder. Its OK and even preferable to use the existing boost referenced regulator. The plate will have to flow against boost pressure as well, so it should be referenced.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 98
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From: brainerd mn
So then the 1/8 pipe port on my regulator would be good enough? My 1/2in feed line is an aluminum line so not easy just to T off and if I put a 8an fitting inline it would restrict it a lil bit more also
and ok iv been seeing noids from 90-200$ so was wondering
other question ill start out on a 50 shot and im running e85 would i need a bigger fuel jet then normal? and will a -4an line for fuel be big enough or should i go -6an? i also see some nitrous lines are -4an and some are -6an
and any specific wot box and window switch to go with?
and ok iv been seeing noids from 90-200$ so was wondering
other question ill start out on a 50 shot and im running e85 would i need a bigger fuel jet then normal? and will a -4an line for fuel be big enough or should i go -6an? i also see some nitrous lines are -4an and some are -6an
and any specific wot box and window switch to go with?
Last edited by ben husen; Aug 23, 2015 at 10:40 AM.
1/8" port should be OK for a small shot. Make sure your fuel noid is E85 compatible, most of the new ones are. You will need a bigger fuel jet than "normal" but I would only go 15-20% bigger than a gas jet because the N20 companies jet the kits rich to begin with. -4an lines will be fine on both sides. Get the WOT/window switch that will best fit your needs, they are all about the same reliability.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 98
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From: brainerd mn
1/8" port should be OK for a small shot. Make sure your fuel noid is E85 compatible, most of the new ones are. You will need a bigger fuel jet than "normal" but I would only go 15-20% bigger than a gas jet because the N20 companies jet the kits rich to begin with. -4an lines will be fine on both sides. Get the WOT/window switch that will best fit your needs, they are all about the same reliability.
and i may wait on a wot/window switch been thinking about going holley hp this winter and i could control it through there
Yeah, anything below a 125 shot is generally considered "small". Just be careful tuning it in and start at like a 75 shot because with boost sometimes you get alot more than advertised. For example I put a 70pill in and it resulted in a 115RWHP increase. Needless to say my fuel was a bit lean since I only expected 70. A Holley EFI controller is slick if you got the $$$$.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 98
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From: brainerd mn
Yeah, anything below a 125 shot is generally considered "small". Just be careful tuning it in and start at like a 75 shot because with boost sometimes you get alot more than advertised. For example I put a 70pill in and it resulted in a 115RWHP increase. Needless to say my fuel was a bit lean since I only expected 70. A Holley EFI controller is slick if you got the $$$$.
and dont have the money for one but from what iv been reading i want to go with it
also was wondering about timing right now im running 14 at wot will i need to pull out much on a 50-100 shot? since im already running allot less then most do?
and since im running a ngk 7 heat range plug do i need to go colder?
Last edited by ben husen; Aug 25, 2015 at 08:48 PM.
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In no way was I attempting to hijack your thread, but I was wondering the same thing. When adding nitrous to a turbo setup I understand that the timing needs to be adjusted. How is the boosted setups done-in the tune so that its always retarded, or with a nitrous controller like the Lingenfelter LNC-2000??? And to the OP thanks for this thread! I was asking questions on the Forced Induction page also and got a few good pointer there.
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FormerVendor
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 19
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From: Indiana
Timing, nitrous, boost etc If you keep the engine constant (displacement, cylinder head/combustion configuration and fuel type) then for the same RPM, if you increase power you are increasing cylinder pressure so a turbo with more boost, a supercharger with more boost, more nitrous or nitrous in addition to boost is going to generally require reduced timing.
In no way was I attempting to hijack your thread, but I was wondering the same thing. When adding nitrous to a turbo setup I understand that the timing needs to be adjusted. How is the boosted setups done-in the tune so that its always retarded, or with a nitrous controller like the Lingenfelter LNC-2000??? And to the OP thanks for this thread! I was asking questions on the Forced Induction page also and got a few good pointer there.
I totally understand that part. I was under the impression that when you have a nitrous car if you do not want to suffer a loss of some power when not spraying then you want to run something like the Lingenfelter box. Ultimately with a turbo car timing will be reduced because of the increase in cylinder pressure. But what about when coupled with nitrous? The timing will need to be retarded even more when spraying so is the best way to do it in the tune which might sacrifice power when not spraying, or set the timing for boost and use the box to retard it when spraying. Reason for asking is what about a car that is built for the streets that will rarely if ever see the track. Any suggestions. Seems like the timing bring all done in the tune would be safer because you would not have to worry about the box failing, but it'll come with sacrificing some daily power
FormerVendor
Joined: Oct 2014
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You can pull timing with the Lingenfelter LNC-2000 on any LS application (except LSA/LS9, which requires the LNC-2001 due to different wiring). Also, when running E85, you do have to add more to the fuel jet, usually around a 10% larger orifice. Our .122 Nitrous and .187 fuel solenoids are more than capable of doing what you're needing. The nitrous solenoid is 1/4" in, and 1/8" out; the fuel solenoid is 1/8" in and out. This combination of solenoids can support up to 500HP, and is what we include in all of our plate kits, standard direct port systems, standard Stinger system, and standard Puck systems. Using a 4AN fuel supply and nitrous feed line will be fine, and can generally support up to 200HP, and even more under some conditions. If you need to go higher than that, upgrade both the fuel and nitrous lines to 6AN, and the lines between the solenoids and plate to a race hose (4AN hose with 1 4AN nut and 1 3AN nut) and you should be good for up to 400HP. Since the nitrous will be entering on the charged side of the turbo you would need to boost reference the fuel pressure regulator so you don't get back flow on the fuel side, and cause it to go lean. You can pull fuel off the rails by putting a manifold on the end of your rail. A manifold usually has 1 or 2 1/8" ports that you tap into for your fuel supply.
Last edited by AJatNitrousOutlet; Sep 25, 2015 at 01:24 PM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: brainerd mn
In no way was I attempting to hijack your thread, but I was wondering the same thing. When adding nitrous to a turbo setup I understand that the timing needs to be adjusted. How is the boosted setups done-in the tune so that its always retarded, or with a nitrous controller like the Lingenfelter LNC-2000??? And to the OP thanks for this thread! I was asking questions on the Forced Induction page also and got a few good pointer there.
You can pull timing with the Lingenfelter LNC-2000 on any LS application (except LSA/LS9, which requires the LNC-2001 due to different wiring). Also, when running E85, you do have to add more to the fuel jet, usually around a 10% larger orifice. Our .122 Nitrous and .187 fuel solenoids are more than capable of doing what you're needing. The nitrous solenoid is 1/4" in, and 1/8" out; the fuel solenoid is 1/8" in and out. This combination of solenoids can support up to 500HP, and is what we include in all of our plate kits, standard direct port systems, standard Stinger system, and standard Puck systems. Using a 4AN fuel supply and nitrous feed line will be fine, and can generally support up to 200HP, and even more under some conditions. If you need to go higher than that, upgrade both the fuel and nitrous lines to 6AN, and the lines between the solenoids and plate to a race hose (4AN hose with 1 4AN nut and 1 3AN nut) and you should be good for up to 400HP. Since the nitrous will be entering on the charged side of the turbo you would need to boost reference the fuel pressure regulator so you don't get back flow on the fuel side, and cause it to go lean. You can pull fuel off the rails by putting a manifold on the end of your rail. A manifold usually has 1 or 2 1/8" ports that you tap into for your fuel supply.
how would u pull timing through like ms3 pro or dominator wile spraying?
puting ur intake temp sensor in the intake it self?
FormerVendor
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 440
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There's nothing at all wrong with tapping the rail to get your fuel. The Holley system can pull timing when the nitrous is spraying. There's a few different ways that it can, but the most popular ways are based on time or RPM. The MS3 Pro can also pull timing for nitrous, but I'm not sure under what conditions it does so. I'm sure though that it's probably comparable to most others on the market.