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250 shot on stinger (PLUGS???)

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Old Nov 4, 2015 | 03:18 PM
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Default 250 shot on stinger (PLUGS???)

Just got my stinger kit and dedicated fuel system in. (AWESOME QUALITY PRODUCT!!!!!) Thanks Scott and AJ. What NGK plugs would be a good starting point for dyno tuning? I am going to start with a 150 then to 200 and onto 250. I was figuring starting at a 9 but Im looking for advice from the pros.

Thanks
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Old Nov 4, 2015 | 06:20 PM
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You are going to love that stinger plate. On the 150 I would do " 7 " plugs to start
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Old Nov 4, 2015 | 07:14 PM
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Yep 7's are perfect on a 150 shot
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 07:42 AM
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I think that I forgot to mention this but I am going to be running either C10 or Q16 in that dedicated system.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by M.BOZZ
You are going to love that stinger plate. On the 150 I would do " 7 " plugs to start
I really hope it hits as hard as Ive seen on some of these videos.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 09:23 AM
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Why not c16? I've read q16 isn't ideal for nitrous.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 09:25 AM
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For the 150, go with the NGK BR7EF, and gap them at 30. For the 200 and 250, I'd use the B8EFS gapped at 28. Let us know if we can do anything else for you!
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by QucikSilver
I really hope it hits as hard as Ive seen on some of these videos.
You will like the hit, but like some bad things in life, the first hit is always the best. But then you want more :
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by blk00ss
Why not c16? I've read q16 isn't ideal for nitrous.
I honestly do not have a good answer for that. I was concerned about the running leaded fuel but learned today that Q16 is leaded as well. I am still researching what the best fuel will be to use that will allow me to keep the most amount of timing in the car. Any help is appreciated.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by AJatNitrousOutlet
For the 150, go with the NGK BR7EF, and gap them at 30. For the 200 and 250, I'd use the B8EFS gapped at 28. Let us know if we can do anything else for you!
Thanks again. Another question is, I have 33 degrees total timing in the car. I am going to run something near 110 octane in the dedicated. I was going to start by pulling 4 degrees for a 150. Is that going to be a good starting point.

Thanks
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 06:36 PM
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Just keep it simple. C16 has been used for years in a stand alone with O2 cars. I would pull more timing than that personally. Like 6-8. Can always add it back.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 06:57 PM
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Cool, thanks. I am just look for a good place to start. I am not running O2's just a single wideband and no knock sensors.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by QucikSilver
Thanks again. Another question is, I have 33 degrees total timing in the car. I am going to run something near 110 octane in the dedicated. I was going to start by pulling 4 degrees for a 150. Is that going to be a good starting point.

Thanks
At 150 I'd start at pulling 6 then working from there. I run 30 degrees total with 91 pump gas and C16 in the stand alone My combo on 150 ran best with 6 out even with c16 in standalone.
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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 08:08 AM
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I have always used -9s for 150-175 and anything above that I use -10's.
Old SBE motor and new motor.
For timing I would pull 9-10 and bring it back in, as you make passes and read plugs.
it's easier to put timing in than pistons.
JMHO.
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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 09:23 AM
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For timing, take it down to 22-23* to start with. You can always put timing back in if you need to-
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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 01:44 PM
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Default 250 shot on stinger (PLUGS???)

Originally Posted by QucikSilver
I honestly do not have a good answer for that. I was concerned about the running leaded fuel but learned today that Q16 is leaded as well. I am still researching what the best fuel will be to use that will allow me to keep the most amount of timing in the car. Any help is appreciated.
Q16 is oxygenated. When we made the switch on my buddies car. We learned u actually need to run 10 to 15% more fuel on q16 than c16. The other things we noticed is it seem to build up alot of moisture. The catch can was filled with a milky oil. We thought we hurt something but talked to a few guys that run it and was told its normal.

I run 7s on a 200 shot with c16. Seems to be pretty happy with that

Last edited by GIMPY02; Nov 6, 2015 at 01:51 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 05:52 PM
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Will C16 have any bad effects on my wideband O2? Other than that, this is all very helpful. I am hoping with a really good chassis setup that she is capable of a 8.99. I just need to squeeze every little bit out of her. In good cold weather I am expecting 10.4's maybe 10.3's N/A.
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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 10:22 PM
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No. You're fine.
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by QucikSilver
Will C16 have any bad effects on my wideband O2? Other than that, this is all very helpful. I am hoping with a really good chassis setup that she is capable of a 8.99. I just need to squeeze every little bit out of her. In good cold weather I am expecting 10.4's maybe 10.3's N/A.
Sorry if I missed it but from my understanding you are only running the c16 in a dedicated fuel system. so no you will not hurt the sensor. Even if you ran it on straight c16 in both tanks your fine. I run my car on straight c16 and I've had the same sensor in my car for 2 years now and it reads fine.
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 11:41 AM
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Yes you are correct. I run 93 in the tank and I guess I'll be running C16 in the dedicated. Thanks for all the help. I'm doing the install today and hope to have it on the dyno by the end of the week and at the track by the weekend.

Very much appreciated.
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