Max Effort Nitrous Cam for a Jet Boat
07-09-2016, 08:51 AM
#1
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Max Effort Nitrous Cam for a Jet Boat Title says what I'm looking for. Motor is a iron 5.7 with forged piston and rods on a stock crank held together with studs from top to bottom. Heads are AFR Mongoose 210 with the big springs just freshened this past winter. Rockers are stock with the trunion upgrade and pushrods are Manley chrome moly. Engine management system is Holley HP with Areomotive pushing the fuel to Deka 60lb injectors. Currently running a stock truck intake and 78mm TB with a Nitrous Outlet plate. A Holley Hi Ram is in this motor's future but no time real soon. Compression is 10.25:1. With HP and Deka injectors, E85 is an option also, but currently running 93 octane super unleaded. The boat lives life above 6,000 rpm on a 250 shot.
There's the backgroud layout. My current cam is an LG G5X3. While it's a great EFI cam, I know there is something better that get the most out of this motor on the spray. With the spring upgrade I can safely go up to .650 lift. I'm looking for max effort with what I got, which is pretty freakin stout. Not worried at all about idle or part throttle driveability. This is in a jet boat with two speeds, on and off. LOL
So, ideas??
There's the backgroud layout. My current cam is an LG G5X3. While it's a great EFI cam, I know there is something better that get the most out of this motor on the spray. With the spring upgrade I can safely go up to .650 lift. I'm looking for max effort with what I got, which is pretty freakin stout. Not worried at all about idle or part throttle driveability. This is in a jet boat with two speeds, on and off. LOL
So, ideas??
07-11-2016, 06:03 PM
#2
Im running a BTR Stage 4 LS1 NA Cam in my jet boat with a 150 shot. (235/242 .621/.595 111lsa)
It REALLY wakes up on the bottle. It really likes it. You're familiar with a jet boat...
I get about 1-1200 rpm on a 150 shot. Impeller charts suggest close to 300 gain on a 150 shot
It REALLY wakes up on the bottle. It really likes it. You're familiar with a jet boat...
I get about 1-1200 rpm on a 150 shot. Impeller charts suggest close to 300 gain on a 150 shot
07-11-2016, 06:04 PM
#3
Title says what I'm looking for. Motor is a iron 5.7 with forged piston and rods on a stock crank held together with studs from top to bottom. Heads are AFR Mongoose 210 with the big springs just freshened this past winter. Rockers are stock with the trunion upgrade and pushrods are Manley chrome moly. Engine management system is Holley HP with Areomotive pushing the fuel to Deka 60lb injectors. Currently running a stock truck intake and 78mm TB with a Nitrous Outlet plate. A Holley Hi Ram is in this motor's future but no time real soon. Compression is 10.25:1. With HP and Deka injectors, E85 is an option also, but currently running 93 octane super unleaded. The boat lives life above 6,000 rpm on a 250 shot.
There's the backgroud layout. My current cam is an LG G5X3. While it's a great EFI cam, I know there is something better that get the most out of this motor on the spray. With the spring upgrade I can safely go up to .650 lift. I'm looking for max effort with what I got, which is pretty freakin stout. Not worried at all about idle or part throttle driveability. This is in a jet boat with two speeds, on and off. LOL
So, ideas??
There's the backgroud layout. My current cam is an LG G5X3. While it's a great EFI cam, I know there is something better that get the most out of this motor on the spray. With the spring upgrade I can safely go up to .650 lift. I'm looking for max effort with what I got, which is pretty freakin stout. Not worried at all about idle or part throttle driveability. This is in a jet boat with two speeds, on and off. LOL
So, ideas??
07-13-2016, 10:23 AM
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It's a 2004 5.3 block out of an Avalanche. I took the block to a machine shop with a set of 3.905 forged pistons and had it punched out. I wanna say it was less than $400 to get the block bored and finish honed. The rest is just standard kick *** aftermarket LS stuff. I think the heads are what make it run so damn good. AFR 1510's are designed specifically for a 5.7 liter.
07-13-2016, 10:38 AM
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Have you talked to anyone about getting a cam spec'd out for your setup? If not, give Brian Tooley Racing or Texas Speed a call and let them know your combo and what you're wanting to do with it. They'll be able to spec a cam then to help you get the most out your setup-
07-26-2016, 03:10 PM
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B/C impeller turning 6,200 - 6,400 on the bottle depending on how fresh it is. About 5,500 on straight motor. I think my choke point now might actually be the 78mm throttle body.
Well, at the moment my choke point is the exhaust valve that broke it's tip off and wreaked havoc inside cylinder number two.
Well, at the moment my choke point is the exhaust valve that broke it's tip off and wreaked havoc inside cylinder number two.
07-26-2016, 03:18 PM
#9
B/C impeller turning 6,200 - 6,400 on the bottle depending on how fresh it is. About 5,500 on straight motor. I think my choke point now might actually be the 78mm throttle body.
Well, at the moment my choke point is the exhaust valve that broke it's tip off and wreaked havoc inside cylinder number two.
Well, at the moment my choke point is the exhaust valve that broke it's tip off and wreaked havoc inside cylinder number two.
With a B- (between a B/C and a B) i was spinning 5k on motor 6000 on bottle
Im now running a Stock C cut and i spin 5200 on motor and about 6200 on bottle, I am a tad lean going to give it just a tiny bit more fuel see if i gain anything
What are you running for timing?
Last edited by steves86ta; 07-26-2016 at 03:23 PM.
07-26-2016, 03:22 PM
#10
B/C impeller turning 6,200 - 6,400 on the bottle depending on how fresh it is. About 5,500 on straight motor. I think my choke point now might actually be the 78mm throttle body.
Well, at the moment my choke point is the exhaust valve that broke it's tip off and wreaked havoc inside cylinder number two.
Well, at the moment my choke point is the exhaust valve that broke it's tip off and wreaked havoc inside cylinder number two.
07-26-2016, 04:55 PM
#11
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No idea. Maybe metal fatigue with too much spring pressure? I put the upgraded spring from AFR on this past winter. I got the heads two years ago on an LS6 that came out of a theft recovery Corvette that LG Motorsports built. No idea how old they were at that point, but life in a jet boat ain't easy on parts. TWO head repair shops have told me that in a marine application running turbos or nitrous, the AFR valves should be switched in favor of Ferrea valve. Dats gonna cost me $500 slices of cheddar! PLus the repair on the head itself, about $900 total. Local machine shop is gonna resleeve the broke cylinder for $85, a steal!
07-26-2016, 04:58 PM
#12
No idea. Maybe metal fatigue with too much spring pressure? I put the upgraded spring from AFR on this past winter. I got the heads two years ago on an LS6 that came out of a theft recovery Corvette that LG Motorsports built. No idea how old they were at that point, but life in a jet boat ain't easy on parts. TWO head repair shops have told me that in a marine application running turbos or nitrous, the AFR valves should be switched in favor of Ferrea valve. Dats gonna cost me $500 slices of cheddar! PLus the repair on the head itself, about $900 total. Local machine shop is gonna resleeve the broke cylinder for $85, a steal!
I am running stock 243 heads with the BTR spring kit. Knock on wood i havent had an issue.
I had 31 hours on it when the MSD box died, and ive put about anout 15 hours on it since.
I wonder how the AFR springs compare to the BTR springs