Dark SS

iTrader: (6)

HC first then spray. But as other have said, the trans and rear need attention if you want a reliable car.

billetproof97'

I would do nitrous first. Vehicle wont be down as long.

poor_red_neck

Can you elaborate on this? Was this auto corrected? I'm assuming you meant IAT?

AJ Dantzer

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/lingenfelter-adjustable-launch-controller.html LNC 2000 is a nitrous/timing controller.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

Mild cam with a great set of heads will make for a very drive able setup that makes great power. Big cam and average heads will get you a car that drives like **** and terrible fuel mileage.

Stock 4L60E can handle some power if it's low mileage and you put a shift kit and cooler on it. 10 bolt can handle 10's all day in a Auto...just put a girdle on it. 6spd cars need a good lightweight clutch and a 9"....10 bolt does not stand a chance. Suspension is a must...basically you got a ways to go to get the car ready for 425-450whp reliably.

Moral of the story...Just adding a 150 shot will be the cheaper route for sure. However I think you will appreciate having the power of a heads/cam setup always there better...do the Nitrous last after everything else on the car has been addressed. Jmo

AJatNitrousOutlet

The LNC-2000 is only a timing retard and Launch Controller. It doesn't control the nitrous in any way, so you'd still need to run a progressive controller or a window switch along with the LNC.

I'm pretty partial to nitrous myself, lol. But seriously, the great thing about nitrous is it's power on demand. Even with a stock engine, LS cars respond very well to nitrous and make lots of power as long as they have a good fuel supply and tune. OP, is there any kit in particular that you're looking at?

'68LT1camaro

iTrader: (1)

No contest, do the 150 shot. It will feel like a 500 cubic inch big block and your gas mileage will stay the same.

tboysen00

iTrader: (1)

I would agree with this.

When you mentioned avg heads. Would cleaned up ported 243's be considered avg?

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

In the scheme of all the available heads out there for the LS1, I'd say ported 243's would be considered average. Of course it's a matter of opinion, just like everything else

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

It depends on what all you are putting in. My setup has more in it but that is because I wanted to be able to turn on and operate the entire system without having to leave the driver seat and I wanted to have a dedicated system for the n20 to run C16 to it.

N2O outlet Fast 92mm plate kit with 10 lb bottle - $800
N2O outlet stage 2 accessory kit - (purge, heater, etc) $400
N2O outlet remote bottle opener 00-66000 - $259
N2O fbody bottle mounting bracket - $60
42 lb. Fuel Injectors - $310
LNC 2000 - $275
NOS progressive controller (02-15974NOS) - $275
Racetronix 255 pump and hotwire kit - $219
N2O outlet F-Body Plastic Fuse Panel Area Dedicated Fuel System - $600
Nitrous cig lighter panel switch - $69
2 1/16 fuel and nitrous pressure gauges - $200
BR7EF plugs - $20

$3487.... and that's without having it TUNED yet.

Granted these are all new costs and I didn't buy everything new, but it's an idea on how much a simple setup can easily run in the thousands depending on how deep you want to get into it. For every guy bragging about his $800 setup doing great the last 3+ years of running it, there's another guy complaining about his **** blowing up because he only spent $800. Some guys like to spend the money up front and not worry about **** not functioning down the road, others spend less and hope for the best. Pick your poison.

dsadsdaiouser

And don't get all caught up in the hype about "needing" heads. They're expensive and a PITA to change. We picked up a used Tick SNS Stage 3 Torquemax cam for a couple hundred bucks and added new BTR springs. With the stock untouched 241 heads and the OEM (never been off the car) LS6 intake we made 429 to the wheels through a Yank SS4000 and 3.90 gear. And this was in July when the shop we tuned at was 108 degrees!

Our nitrous kit, using 150 jets (no NANO - it was too hot and pressure was too high) made 565 to the wheels the same day. When it cools down in the fall I'm positive we can make 600 to the wheels with 150 jets and the NANO on. Why in the world would I spend $2000+ on a set of heads when I can change $10 jets and go to 200 and make over 650?

Scott

dsadsdaiouser

This^^^

Well said! When you get into nitrous this is all exactly correct. I was fortunate enough to find someone selling all of this NIB (except the stand alone ... which I picked up later) for a fraction of the new cost as the original owner changed direction. I'm very happy we have the progressive controller, LNC box, purge kit, stand alone, NANO kit, etc. Makes tuning more easy, gives me peace of mind we're making safe power, and leaves us room to grow. IMHO don't cheap out on the kit.

Scott

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=Tar Heel;19386647]And don't get all caught up in the hype about "needing" heads. They're expensive and a PITA to change. We picked up a used Tick SNS Stage 3 Torquemax cam for a couple hundred bucks and added new BTR springs. With the stock untouched 241 heads and the OEM (never been off the car) LS6 intake we made 429 to the wheels through a Yank SS4000 and 3.90 gear. And this was in July when the shop we tuned at was 108 degrees!

Even though I have heads I've been preaching many times what you just said. If you're the type of person who only need the extra kick even now and then, by nitrous simply can't be beat

dsadsdaiouser

And if you're going to be serious about the nitrous I recommend filling your own bottles. We picked up the gravity feed kit from Nitrous Outlet and I can't tell you how nice it is to fill our own bottles when we want. It's extremely easy and quick and most importantly we pay about $1.78 per pound instead of $5.

Scott

Theblacknightls1

iTrader: (1)

Cam it and spray it!