Pulling fuel from rail
Pulling fuel from rail What's the most power you have ever made pulling off the rail with a single walbro 255 and hotwire kit? Was Your fuel ok. Did you have enough pump. I want to make 650hp at the wheel with this set up
I went mid 9's with no issues doing this. Racetronix pump and hotwire kit, battery in the back and the hotwire right on the battery, had zero fuel pressure issues, held a constistant 65 psi the entire run, every plug looked very close, no issues with the factory rail being drained.
I still think a 150 shot is about max to be safe off the rail. Unless you know how to read plugs for timing and fuel just be careful. I've seen 200 some guys start to have issues.
If you don't know how to read plugs and are playing with nitrous I don't care what kind of setup you have you're going to hurt stuff....
Learning to read plugs is a must. With any performance hot rod, whether it be n/a nitrous boosted it doesn't matter. If you can't read what the plug is telling you it's never going to be right.
We always recommend a hot wire kit and aftermarket fuel pump such as the walbro 255. Are there people out there pulling off the fuel rail doing 200hp of fuel? Yes. My personal opinion I do not recommend it. I always recommend my customers when looking to do 175-200 that they should could consider the benefits of looking into a dedicated fuel supply. Having the nitrous on its own fuel supply will ensure that there will not be an issue with running the motor lean due to pulling from the rail. When you run a dedicated fuel supply it allows you to run race gas thus allowing you to have more protection against detonation and keeping the tune safe. With a higher octane fuel you can increase ignition timing slightly to make the most amount of power.
Proper plug reading is key to know what is going on inside of the combustion chamber. Tuning needs to be very detailed and spot on. Room for error is next to none- Houston
Proper plug reading is key to know what is going on inside of the combustion chamber. Tuning needs to be very detailed and spot on. Room for error is next to none- Houston
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Been wondering this as well. I'm still new to nitrous so bear with me, but why wouldn't one install a stand alone instead of upgrading the fuel pump, and explore the potential of running a higher octane?
It would seem that if you're running a big enough shot to be concerned about running out of fuel that a stand alone should be considered as well.
It would seem that if you're running a big enough shot to be concerned about running out of fuel that a stand alone should be considered as well.
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Verdad Gallardo One of the reasons I went to a standalone, just a much safer tune and then I can run race fuel in it. I never had issues from the rail at 150, it was when I went to 200. My tune had to be really spot on as stated by JL w6, reading plugs is def a priority. You can make a standalone probably for under 200.00 if you shop wisely. Mine was expensive as I bought a NX one, but fit perfectly and quality is first rate. Now I can run 300 and not worry about any fuel issues at all. More to grow with.
another big problem from pulling from the rail is a temporary lean condition because of the extra demand at the hit . mine always went lean on the initial hit untill i put my stand alone in. prolly been a few blown motors because of that.
Pulling from rail for a 200 hit. Sbe btr4 243 heads. Not sure on power, but does 6.50 105-106 in the 1/8th with a 6spd full weight. I'm also running e85 with a 450 pump which seems like it would be much easier to drain the rail considering the volume necessary, but I have even fuel distribution according to my plugs.
I ran a hotwire off the battery in the trunk to the racetronix setup I was running, and I had as big as a 46 fuel pill in my plate at one point and never had an issue with any of the holes looking like they were seeing a lean condition.
The lean blip at the start of a hit, I got rid of that shortening up the fuel line going from the rail to the noid, went to about a 4 inch long line instead of the 18 inch that the kit I had came with and the fuel line from the noid to the jet was also only 8 inches long, and that eliminated the lean spike completely.
A lot of ways to get around these things.
The lean blip at the start of a hit, I got rid of that shortening up the fuel line going from the rail to the noid, went to about a 4 inch long line instead of the 18 inch that the kit I had came with and the fuel line from the noid to the jet was also only 8 inches long, and that eliminated the lean spike completely.
A lot of ways to get around these things.
Even with a dedicated there's a lean spike. The lean spike is from the pressure differences between the nitrous and fuel. To avoid or lighten the spike a shorter fuel line is needed.