Silver02

iTrader: (1)

About 10 years ago, I had a Wet system on a Mustang 5.0 that injected into the throttle body but it would foul the plugs. Is the Dry better in that respect?

Silver02

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, I meant it had throttle body injection and NOS was injected into the manifold. Spark plugs fouled but also melted one.

Magic Chicken

iTrader: (1)

Maybe fuel was jetted too rich? Also, if you were using the colder heat range plugs, they don't last as long as the stock ones.

Turo

iTrader: (23)

what plugs were you using on the mustang?

Silver02

iTrader: (1)

What I'm trying the find out is, what the advantage of the "DRY" system?

Magic Chicken

iTrader: (1)

It's cheaper. The pros and cons are all a matter of opinion. Something that someone might see as a pro, someone else might see as a con.

What kind of shot are you wanting to run? Most people usually don't go over 100-125 HP on a dry system.

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

well. the first and foremost con of a dry system is having to worry about fuel...if your maf has a brain fart and decides not to add more fuel or you take the injectors way over 100 percent duty cycle you could detonate, worse case being bad enough to take out a piston and even a sleeve(or more than one). Good insurance on a dry kit would be an inline pump and bigger injectors(need tuning then)

positive of a dry system is its easier to put on and yes, cheaper.

A negative AND a positive with wet is the fact that you are controlling the fuel. Positive in that you can make sure the car gets enough fuel, negative in that you can put too much by accident and puddle the intake and blow that sucker apart. When running wet you its important to make sure you have a fuel system capable of providing enough fuel for both the motor and the kit at the same time..i.e--pump(s), bigger fuel rails..seperate system just for the kit is what alot of guys run when using a big *** wet kit like a direct port or even just a big fogger.

that help some? that's just some basics...plenty more out there on specifics..

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

I have seen more fuel noids crap out than MAFs go bad causing dry shot fuel issues.

I am partial to dry myself until you go direct port. Whatever you can do with a wet kit (non direct port) I can do with a dry kit.

There is a basic setup on an LS1 using dry nitrous, injectors, pump, and tuning, that will provide a safe and reliable setup to control 725 rwhp and equal Tq using stock fuel lines, rails, stock MAF. There are several cars doing this here in my area with great success.

I have been running dual stage dry with all the stuff I mentioned above at 600-725 rwhp for going on 2 years. Have not had 1 mishap that is nitrous related. No backfires, no MAF problems nothing.


Thats not to say that if you are going with a basic kit for a 100 or 150 shot that wet is bad. Not at all...wet kits are as effective as dry...maybe even a tad better when you are talking basic single stage kits in that manner. I dont feel the safety of either is worth argueing about. Both are proven safe when used with good sense.