Kurtomac

iTrader: (5)

i got my bottle mounted in my spare tire well, so im mounting my heater relay back there as well. OK here it goes i have a amp for my sub woofers and as you know, you have a remote wire that turns on your amp(switched 12 volt, switched by the radio being on or off) would that be a sufficient supply of power for the heater relay as its very conveinient. I have the wire plugging into the back of my stock deck in my TA and i believe its a yellow wire, i just dont want to start poppin fuses or blowin my deck up or whatever.

One more question for my switched 12 volts on all my switches can i run them all to the same switched 12 volt or do they have to be different. FYI i have a Arm switch, purge switch, and heater switch.

I also made a neat little switch panel that was very cheap, looks good, and fits perfect ill post pics when im done, thanks guys, Kurt

BMN

Are you looking to use your (power ant./amp turn on) line to power just the relay coil, or are you going to power the bottle heater with it? Also with your switches. It looks like your arm switch and heater switch will trip relays. They will be ok because relays dont take a lot of power to trip. I'm not sure about your purge. Does your purge switch go to a relay or is it wire directly to a solenoid? If it goes to a relay you can have them all tied to the same source without wory.

2FAST4U

If I where you I would just tap the Orange wire under the dash by the steering, it is on the left side big harness! It can handle anything you want to but on it! But remember to fuse it as it isn't fused anywhere! Don't use the radio wires for switches or relays! As far as the 12v for the relay I would run a 10ga automotive wire from the battery!

I would think you have 2-3 switches at least? So this would need at least a 10ga feed. Run the switch 12 10ga to the switch panel spot then split it off to 12ga or 16ga. The switches don't need a big wire as all NOS stuff needs relays!

Kurtomac

iTrader: (5)

ok, I assume the bottle heater itself is given power from the relay? and the 12 volts at the switch, all that does is complete the circuit? my main system relay is wired right to a direct 12 volt source so ill do the same with the heater relay i have a 4 gauge wire running to the back for my subs ill just use that for my heater relay, as for getting switched 12 volts from under the dash im lost on where to get them from ill dig around in there tomarrow

Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

Can you explain why ?

I have several things running off the +12v stereo wire (and the ILLUM and GRND). Nitrous switchplate hot and grounds, and trans temp gauge hot, ground and illum.

No problems so far. The only reason I could think of not to use them is potential difficulty troubleshooting stereo wiring problems.

They provide plenty of current - I believe the stereo +12 is on a 10 amp fuse, which is plenty of juice for the stereo and other small accessories.

I wouldn't go wiring something with a high amp draw (like the high current draw side of the bottle heater relay) to it, but it's not like they're "forbidden wiring".

Bad30th

Kurtomac

iTrader: (5)

what i ended up doing is putting an inline 20A fuse in a wire running directly from the battery to the purge switch and running a wire from my power wire from me stereo amp with another inline 20A fuse to the bottle heater relay

2FAST4U

The size of the radio wire isn't very big and It is better when runing many things to tap a high amp wire! It only takes 10minutes to remove the lower dash,find the acc. wire and tap it!

My car is all rewired and has a 12v,accesory,dimmer fused terminal boards up under the dash to tap in all the gauges and switches! As for my NOS is prewired into my Accel DFI and only a switchs tell the computer when I want to go!

DEI Tech page------12v---red---ignition harness (big wires)
------Accessory---orange---ignition harness ( big wire)

It is so easy, cleaner, and real the best way to do it. But remeber to fuse it of the big wire as it isn't fused!

Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

Gotcha.

The larger gauge wire would be better for running large amp draw (say, an "in-car easy-bake oven" or the like).

I think a few LEDs and a couple of switch bulbs will be fine on the stereo +12 (I believe it's a 12 gauge wire ? - and it's already fused !).

Good idea about the terminal board setup for +12/GND/ILLUM. That would make wiring a piece of cake for folks with lots of gauges/accessories.

Bad30th