I'm going to get a 408ci motor but before I buy it I want to see who has the fasted one before u squeez on it. I want to see what type of cam and heads u guys are using so that I can get a better idea of what brand to get. My goal is to get hopefully at least 600rwhp on motor then squeezing at least a 200shot. Please any suggestions on what brand of internals and heads and cam to purchase. thnx

 

600 rwhp on STREETABLE 408???? Withour juice??? good luck!

SDB

 

The question is do you want it streetable? If not then 600rwhp is possible NA. Now you can get close to 600rwhp NA, but you would be on the very edge of what many call streetable. I almost went more radical, but because I am spraying I had to ask myself why go crazy NA.

 

oh yeah by the way I still want it to be streetable. I really dont drive the car during the week but I still want to be able to if I want to. My goal is to reach at least 800rwhp on the juice. any recomendations on set ups that u guys have.

 

look up J C RIDER on the corvette forum [408 iron blk 550+ rwhp]-drives it to work everyday! built by rpm.

 

600 is a ways away from 550 when you're talking naturally aspirated.

Why are you dead set on only spraying 200? Why not build an 8.5:1 408 and make 800 RWHP on boost, and have it be a lot more streetable than a 600 RWHP N/A build.

 

Make your goals 550 rwhp and itll be alot easier, just spray a 250 shot.

 

at first i did want to go with turbo but the $$$ issue. I'm thinking if I get a good turbo set up and fully build 408 with heads and cam I'll be spending $15,000 and on the other side I think if i get the motor more nitrous it will be $5,000 less. By the way I also need to think in a fuel system and a rearend and that just mean extra money. Oh yeah and by the way I know that 550rwhp is more realistic. I just want to know what set up do guys with 408 motors have. thnx

 

hey mike what type of heads r u running. Also how much did you spend on your block?

 

AP Engineering 6.0 race heads, but I have to tell you that I have dyno'd on different dynos all the way from 500 hp to 537 hp which is what (of course) is in my sig.

The block I wanna say was 4500 and I got a callies crank, callies rods, diamond pistons/rings and super strong head studs (L19s????), as well as the cloyes adjustable timing set and custom comp cam. I did get a good deal on the crank though cause it was a blemished one. My compression is 11.3 to 1 as well incase you were wondering and cam size is 244 248 .600 .600 114.


My setup is somewhat mild for a 408 but I wanted a motor that was 100% streetable that had some room/tolerance for abuse and so far it has been doing really well in that aspect. I gain more confidence in it everyday.

 

You need to think about the whole combination. Suspension, brakes, driveshaft, transmission, gearing, compression, fuel and the list goes on. Builing an 800 rwhp car is not an easy task. Especially when you are relying on a shop that may or may not know what there doing. It gets expensive real quick so over budget when your adding things up. I would say 600 rwhp on a solid roller cam and high compression would be the only way, and it won't be streetable. 500-550 is more realistic on a hydralic cam.

 

what type of intake and throttle body are using. Also do what type of fuel system do you have and are u running a seperate fuel system for the nitrous. One last question whats the highest shot that you've put on it and do you now whats the highest that you can squeeze while still being in the safe side

 

I know that inorder to get to the hp that I want is going to take alot of $$. But I know that I'm going to get suspension and rearend, driveshaft and probably 3.73 gears. Also I'm going to rebuil my stock tranny but with better clutches. Do you guys think that if I get my tranny rebuild for better performance it will hold up to about at least 700rwhp.

 

a rebuilt tranny should hold, mine has not been altered yet and is starting to have some issues. I use a fast 90mm TB and Intake, Fuel system is stock lines, intank walbro and 43lb injectors for the motor, The nitrous has its own fuel system. Right now I am getting about 150 to the wheels so call it a 175 shot and IMO I am at the limits of what would be safe. The motor can take a 300 shot I bet but I am not responsible enought yet to use it

 

I have had a lot of trouble running a 4l60e with a little over 600 rwhp on the spray with 3950 race weight. How long it lasts is just a roll of the dice. It won't hold 800 rwhp.

 

I should also clarify and say my tranny is an M6 as well, its doing pretty good except for the 2nd to 3rd shift. Sometimes it goes in easy sometimes I gotta jam it in there and sometimes it grinds lol.

 

my tranny is also an m6 and I would also have that same problem but it was usually when I went in to 2nd. At first I thought that it was my clutch b/c it would really slip when I first got the car but then I upgraded the clutch to the mcleod twin disk which by the way fills great and it would be still sometimes hard to go in and it would also grin.

 

My 408 only makes 478 RWHP and just over 600RWTQ N/A. I run a dual staged NX MAF kit with a 150 shot per stage(250 actuall) of N20 it made 723RWHP and 666RWTQ. I went 9.23@149.1 on a 1.32 60ft. Specs are as follows, 6.0 Ltr iron block bored .030 over, Callies 4" forged crank, Crowler 6.125" forged rods, Diamond 4.030" forged with valve reliefs and coated pistons, custom CNC LQ9 heads with 2.055 intake and 1.700 exhaust valves, Dual Rev springs, producing 13.2/1 static compression ratio, custom ground Comp Cams cam duration-244/248 lift-.612/.615 on a 113 LSA. F.A.S.T 90MM T/B and intake manifold, 40Lb SVO injectors, Walbro 340(255ltr p/h) intank pump with a Aeromotive Sunami feeder pump.

 

damn your car is fast. So inorder for you to get 723rwhp you had to put a 250shot on it right. I see the huge power gain with n2o but why on 66rwhp gain on the torque. Do you know which crank is the best for this type of set up. by the way who build your motor. I really dont want to buy all the parts seperately and take it to a machine shop, I would rather get all build by a good engine builder

 

No, on the N20 we had it jetted to 300 HP but it was set fairly rich as a measure of protection so it only made 250 on the 300 shot.When you dyno an engine making this kind of HP you have to look at MPH rather than RPM or the graph looks screwed up. The torque appears low because we hit at 75 MPH and it went to 120 in 1.8 seconds and the RPM only reached 6000. If we had of taken it all the way to 7000 the TQ would have been much higher. I know that some of the larger shops will build you a long block if you want but I choose to buy all the parts and have the machine work and assembly done by a shop that specializes in building motors. Thanks, the car is fast and it still has alot more in it, just need to get the suspension set up alittle better. Take a look at the videos from the Thunder Shoot out, my car is the NBM T/A dragging the bumper to about 75ft out. lol