tsp 231/237 w/ 100 shot
I will let you know how i like it on a 150 shot come spring 
12-20-2004, 08:41 PM
#6
Yep. The TSP 231/237 loves its. With a 100 shot on totally stock engine last year, best of 11.38, consistently in the 11.50's. With heads/cam this year 100 shot 10.8's; 150 shot 10.6's and 200 shot 10.08. Still stock bottom end. Just a very save tune, all the suspension mods and 30x9 Goodyear. Next year still stock bottom end with the TSP cam and Patriot Stage II heads, I am hoping for 9.6-9.8 after the SS looses about 200-300 lbs and better set of headers.
100 shot, very little tuning needed --- IF YOU RUN A WET SHOT. I still would recommend not running over 28 degrees of timing on a 100 shot. I will play it save everytime.
David
100 shot, very little tuning needed --- IF YOU RUN A WET SHOT. I still would recommend not running over 28 degrees of timing on a 100 shot. I will play it save everytime.
David
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12-21-2004, 01:43 PM
#10
02SS - use LS1Edit. I have separate tunes for: hot weather (a lot of timing), cold weather (29 degrees of timing); 100 shot, 150, 200, 250 shot. Each has only the timing degree pulled - 2 degree per 50 shot. On the last set of runs at Thunder, I put in 24 degrees of timing on the 200 shot - without any problems 
David
David
12-21-2004, 08:36 PM
#12
mdblackz28. Nope. Did the heads and cam swap at the same time. Also the LS1Edit program with the heads/cam.
On a pure stock engine - bolt on's only - I used the MAFT to "dial" the A/F. I did have the use of a dyno to ensure that it was running in the 11.9-12.0 - got pretty good at "guessing" the MAFT settings. Best was a 11.38 but fairly consistent 11.50-11.60.
The TSP 231/237 loves its gas and not to bad on engine only. Prior to heads/cam swap, best engine only was 12.51 (I think). Best last year was an 11.33 engine only - no spray.
If you guys are really looking at doing 150 shot or more, with heads and/or cam swap, I would highly suggest running a little bigger injector - 30 SVO (36lb for us) - and a least an in-line if not the RaceX drop in fuel pump. Get a good tune. Take it to a dyno and ensure that the air/fuel is correct. Many people have run 150 with stock engine, stock injectors, stock fuel pump. Are they running today? What was their times? To maximize your power, just bite the bullet and spend a little extra. With all the extra power, don't forget your suspension. Low 10's on stock bottom end is very cool. Not easy, and not cheap. I am serious about make a run at the 9.64 "record" for a stock bottom end 346ci LS1. Not sure it will happen but love to see my non-shop car run it.
Good luck guys
David
On a pure stock engine - bolt on's only - I used the MAFT to "dial" the A/F. I did have the use of a dyno to ensure that it was running in the 11.9-12.0 - got pretty good at "guessing" the MAFT settings. Best was a 11.38 but fairly consistent 11.50-11.60.
The TSP 231/237 loves its gas and not to bad on engine only. Prior to heads/cam swap, best engine only was 12.51 (I think). Best last year was an 11.33 engine only - no spray.
If you guys are really looking at doing 150 shot or more, with heads and/or cam swap, I would highly suggest running a little bigger injector - 30 SVO (36lb for us) - and a least an in-line if not the RaceX drop in fuel pump. Get a good tune. Take it to a dyno and ensure that the air/fuel is correct. Many people have run 150 with stock engine, stock injectors, stock fuel pump. Are they running today? What was their times? To maximize your power, just bite the bullet and spend a little extra. With all the extra power, don't forget your suspension. Low 10's on stock bottom end is very cool. Not easy, and not cheap. I am serious about make a run at the 9.64 "record" for a stock bottom end 346ci LS1. Not sure it will happen but love to see my non-shop car run it.
Good luck guys
David
12-22-2004, 01:03 AM
#13
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was planning on going with a wet shot on top of this cam (100-125.. or maybe 150 if all was good a/f wise)
I think I've read enough to figure out that the 28's I upgraded to the H/C are enough for the N/A fueling and tuned just fine. But for the juice a new pump would be needed to be safe along with all the goodies.
I would love to spray this cam into the low 11's... just have to get some tires first. I assume you ran your times on slicks and skinnies?? What 60's are you talking about on those times anyway?
I think I've read enough to figure out that the 28's I upgraded to the H/C are enough for the N/A fueling and tuned just fine. But for the juice a new pump would be needed to be safe along with all the goodies.
I would love to spray this cam into the low 11's... just have to get some tires first. I assume you ran your times on slicks and skinnies?? What 60's are you talking about on those times anyway?
12-22-2004, 01:35 PM
#14
Johnny5
Yes. MT and Goodyear's slick (I have finally decided on the Hoosier 30x10.5x15). Bigger slicks were need to the high nitrous shot I went. I did NOT want to change out the 4.30's. Skinnys in front. I "think" the only reason the SS didn't run 9's (so far) is due to the weight of the SS - 3553 last run. I'm dropping 200-300lbs this winter.
60's were consistently into the 1.42-1.45 range. UNTIL I went to the expert on chasis adjustments - MadMan (Brian). He reset my suspension. Down at Thunder the best 60' was 1.35, mainly 1.38-1.39 range. Next year I'm hoping for 1.2's.
This is still going to be on a stock bottom end 98SS
David
Yes. MT and Goodyear's slick (I have finally decided on the Hoosier 30x10.5x15). Bigger slicks were need to the high nitrous shot I went. I did NOT want to change out the 4.30's. Skinnys in front. I "think" the only reason the SS didn't run 9's (so far) is due to the weight of the SS - 3553 last run. I'm dropping 200-300lbs this winter.
60's were consistently into the 1.42-1.45 range. UNTIL I went to the expert on chasis adjustments - MadMan (Brian). He reset my suspension. Down at Thunder the best 60' was 1.35, mainly 1.38-1.39 range. Next year I'm hoping for 1.2's.
This is still going to be on a stock bottom end 98SS
David
12-22-2004, 03:17 PM
#16
Race weight is the weight of the car and YOU (to include your helmet, etc). Most get weighed right after a run at the track.
If you want to see what can be removed go to the Drag Racing Tech Section (down below). There is the top sticky that shows what people have removed and its weight.
How am I going to loose weight? Change out to PA K-member and A-arms (saves 75lbs); 1 drag seat vice the ones I have (saves at least 40lbs); change to a pin on hood from the Ultra (saves 35lbs). I'm also removing all A/C, power steering, center consol, and anything else that doesn't move - I expect to save at least another 100lbs. Possible race brakes, another 35-70lbs.
David
If you want to see what can be removed go to the Drag Racing Tech Section (down below). There is the top sticky that shows what people have removed and its weight.
How am I going to loose weight? Change out to PA K-member and A-arms (saves 75lbs); 1 drag seat vice the ones I have (saves at least 40lbs); change to a pin on hood from the Ultra (saves 35lbs). I'm also removing all A/C, power steering, center consol, and anything else that doesn't move - I expect to save at least another 100lbs. Possible race brakes, another 35-70lbs.
David
