Help w/ nitrous setup for street car please...
Help w/ nitrous setup for street car please... I have an M6 SS that's undergoing the full bolt-on & suspension treatment right now, but keeping the stock gear and rear-end (for now) and will have the car on a DR. I want to run a powerful, yet effective and safe nitrous setup for runs on the street. I don't want to completely push the limits of the stock motor, so I was thinking to keep it no higher than a 150 shot. Now here's where I'm not 100% sure on how to set it up......
Should I go with a 150 shot wet kit? Or will I be blowing my tires off when the kit hits?
I've been reading about some 2-stage dry/wet setups and had the idea to run (this is mainly where I need the help) something like a 50 hole-shot and a 2nd 100 shot once into second.....Also, why is the first shot usually dry? I'm sorry if I'm asking a lot, but any help would be appreciated.
Should I go with a 150 shot wet kit? Or will I be blowing my tires off when the kit hits?
I've been reading about some 2-stage dry/wet setups and had the idea to run (this is mainly where I need the help) something like a 50 hole-shot and a 2nd 100 shot once into second.....Also, why is the first shot usually dry? I'm sorry if I'm asking a lot, but any help would be appreciated.
If i were to go with a dry/wet combo, I would have the dry first, as the PCM can be tuned to reduce timing on the dry shot, making for a healthy NA car, and instant "tuned" nitrous car.
Going with Dry you will need to upgrade injectors. 99-00 had 26# and 98, 01-+ use 28#, both are going to be tapped running full bolt-on and anything over 50shot dry, so to me it would be cheaper to go wet all the way on this particular application. With an M6 your going to want a window switch as well. I think if your clutch is good, your going to blow yoru DRs either way. If you clutch isnt up to par, it will slip and need replacing soon. And once your clutch is good then you need to worry about the rear end, slip the clutch out, spin the DR and make sure you dont dead hook, or the 10bolt POS will pop.
So in your case, clutch, DRs, wet kit OR Dry/Wet with Injectors, think about the fuel pump and the rearend later also. TR6 plugs, tune, refill (lots of bottles) and enjoy.
Charlie
Going with Dry you will need to upgrade injectors. 99-00 had 26# and 98, 01-+ use 28#, both are going to be tapped running full bolt-on and anything over 50shot dry, so to me it would be cheaper to go wet all the way on this particular application. With an M6 your going to want a window switch as well. I think if your clutch is good, your going to blow yoru DRs either way. If you clutch isnt up to par, it will slip and need replacing soon. And once your clutch is good then you need to worry about the rear end, slip the clutch out, spin the DR and make sure you dont dead hook, or the 10bolt POS will pop.
So in your case, clutch, DRs, wet kit OR Dry/Wet with Injectors, think about the fuel pump and the rearend later also. TR6 plugs, tune, refill (lots of bottles) and enjoy.
Charlie
I've got a 18k mile '01 car and the LS6 clutch is holding strong. Is safety sacrificed with a 2-stage dry/wet setup? Is there any way to use a Harlan 2-step to any advantage for my application?
I'd like to stick to DRs to avoid buying a 12bolt or 9" so soon AND because pulling up to a race/cruise night with any type of slick (from ET streets to drags) will scare the pants off most other drivers and they'll refuse any action from the car.
I'd like to stick to DRs to avoid buying a 12bolt or 9" so soon AND because pulling up to a race/cruise night with any type of slick (from ET streets to drags) will scare the pants off most other drivers and they'll refuse any action from the car.
Some folks use a small 50 shot dry for the first stage then a 100 shot on top of it wet. Its pretty simple to do. Another key thing is to use a DynoTune Time Delay switch to help control when it all kicks in beacuse you do not want it coming all in right away.
An additional switch to control the wet shot is needed. The dry shot would kickin as the pedal is floored, then the time delay switch delays a 1/2 sesond of so, then the second stage kicks in. This helps control traction. Also when you shift you will not blow the tires off as the delay will work on the shift as well. Simply leave the wet stage off if you want and you can run the 50 shot dry any time you want as well
Dan
An additional switch to control the wet shot is needed. The dry shot would kickin as the pedal is floored, then the time delay switch delays a 1/2 sesond of so, then the second stage kicks in. This helps control traction. Also when you shift you will not blow the tires off as the delay will work on the shift as well. Simply leave the wet stage off if you want and you can run the 50 shot dry any time you want as well
Dan
On the street I could see your rear lasting much longer as you wont be hooking worth a ****, I mean not like at a track. So the DR should be good. I have seen some Ls6 clutches last a decent time, but seen some that just slip to damn much under the juice. The 2 step would definately be a dead-ringer for scaring the hell out of anyone sitting at a light next to you, not sure as I have yet to use one, but I know ppl that do use 2steps love them. Waiting to hook one up myself tied into Nitrous, and Line Lock.
I wouldnt say safety would be sacrificed by using the wet/dry. Just need the supporting equipment for each. You can use a "Y" fitting on the nitrous line, 1 for the dry and one going to the wet, and then a fuel noid off the rail. But, you will need Injectors and tuning for them; Dry uses the temp vs airflow thru the MAF for the PCM to add fuel, which will already be getting close to tapped out with anything over 50shot and full bolt-on, I believe, I could be wrong.
I wouldnt say safety would be sacrificed by using the wet/dry. Just need the supporting equipment for each. You can use a "Y" fitting on the nitrous line, 1 for the dry and one going to the wet, and then a fuel noid off the rail. But, you will need Injectors and tuning for them; Dry uses the temp vs airflow thru the MAF for the PCM to add fuel, which will already be getting close to tapped out with anything over 50shot and full bolt-on, I believe, I could be wrong.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 359
Likes: 1
From: Orlando, FL
Go single stage unless you're planning to spray 250+.
A single 150 hit doesn't spin badly if you're on a nice tire. Especially since you said you're going full suspension.
Buy a NX wet kit + genx 2 and don't look back.
A single 150 hit doesn't spin badly if you're on a nice tire. Especially since you said you're going full suspension.
Buy a NX wet kit + genx 2 and don't look back.
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