Need a wiring diagram
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I'm getting ready to install my nitrous set up and I don't know how to put everything together. I have a Nitrous controller, fuel pressure safty switch, redundant solinoid, wide open throttle switch, fuel solinoid, N2O solinoid, and the relay, and the arm switch. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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I just went thru most of what youre doing and gathered a lot of info on it in the process. I put it all in a thread etc. I'll find it and paste it up for you.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/317818-nitrous-wire-up.html
there we go. hope it helps
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/317818-nitrous-wire-up.html
there we go. hope it helps
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http://www.mpsracing.com/products/NOS/no01h.asp
This is the one I'm using. I don't have the directions or a wiring diagram. I am using a redundant solinoid. Any help is appreciated.
This is the one I'm using. I don't have the directions or a wiring diagram. I am using a redundant solinoid. Any help is appreciated.
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Originally Posted by meanls1
http://www.mpsracing.com/products/NOS/no01h.asp
This is the one I'm using. I don't have the directions or a wiring diagram. I am using a redundant solinoid. Any help is appreciated.
This is the one I'm using. I don't have the directions or a wiring diagram. I am using a redundant solinoid. Any help is appreciated.
The terminals that the wires go to I need to know what each terminal says.
Ricky
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You might want to reconsider doing redundant noids on a wet kit. What it does is doubles your chance of a noid failure and resulting problems from the working side. It works on dry better because if one of your noids dosen't open, so what, no problems, but is there mostly to protect against n2o noid sticking open for safety. These are just my opinions and has nothing to do with your choice on running a wet kit.
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This is not the way I saw nos instruction written, they did not use a relay, thought that was kinda bad so here you go. Feel free to check it with an nos guy.
Ricky
Ricky
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I'm going to butt in this thread
My kit will be here next week. NOS wet kit, bottle heater, bottle opener, purge, FPSS, WOT switch, Full Throttle Tuner and electric cutout. How many relays should I go buy? and what size amp? It's goina to be a pita wiring...i'll be lost
My kit will be here next week. NOS wet kit, bottle heater, bottle opener, purge, FPSS, WOT switch, Full Throttle Tuner and electric cutout. How many relays should I go buy? and what size amp? It's goina to be a pita wiring...i'll be lost
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It depends, I use six of them. You'll need one for each of, main noids together, purge noid, bottle blanket, bottle opener and maybe more. I use the 30/40 amp models. Here's an example of what to expect depending on what you are looking to do. It's just arming switches, purge, bottle heat, bott open , 2nd stg and lights, however, a little more complicated than you'll probably do/need. Just take it one step at a time before getting creative.
![](http://home.comcast.net/~weaver.robert/wsb/media/779908/site1057.jpg)
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Man, I want to learn how to make those nice wiring diagrams.
Yea, I had the same thought om my NOS bottle opener, no relay, so I added one. Guess they do it to keep price down? So, is that a dual stage controller, and is that what was meant by redundant noids?
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I know what redundant noids is, I was asking on that particular system as it is a wet hit. You can look at any of the NOS wet kits using the Power Shot noids and they are not redundant (varified looking in 2000 catalog), no need they are fine. They do it on dry for safety period. I am not sure if power shot noids still use buna or not, but all the noids above them use teflon.
It looks to me like the controller is controling the dual n2o noids as a ws? or do they come on at same time. A true redundant set-up would have them on the same power and ground to be controlled together and one supply in and out through noids.
It looks to me like the controller is controling the dual n2o noids as a ws? or do they come on at same time. A true redundant set-up would have them on the same power and ground to be controlled together and one supply in and out through noids.
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Originally Posted by Robert56
I know what redundant noids is, I was asking on that particular system as it is a wet hit. You can look at any of the NOS wet kits using the Power Shot noids and they are not redundant (varified looking in 2000 catalog), no need they are fine. They do it on dry for safety period. I am not sure if power shot noids still use buna or not, but all the noids above them use teflon.
It looks to me like the controller is controling the dual n2o noids as a ws? or do they come on at same time. A true redundant set-up would have them on the same power and ground to be controlled together and one supply in and out through noids.
It looks to me like the controller is controling the dual n2o noids as a ws? or do they come on at same time. A true redundant set-up would have them on the same power and ground to be controlled together and one supply in and out through noids.
The way I understand the redundant noid just opens and the other system noid does progessive cycling. nos recommend it on all there system dry wet and directport kits. It just looks like they are trying to protect the end user from a bad design, in my opinion. Hey Robert I did not mean you did not know what a redundant noid was, no disrespect.
Ricky
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NX Ricky, I just looked through the NOS catalog and I found Zero wet kits with redundant noids. Their dry kits use them. The direct Port kits use one pair fuel/n2o noids per bank, but that's not redundant, as the fuel/n2o lines are split and run to each rather than through two inline. I do know the 5177 wires the first noid through the fpss, but I do both. I agree, I wouldn't use the power shot noids for progressive, not quite good enough for that harsh enviroment. Oh, I wasn't thinking disrespect, but rather not answering my question.
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Originally Posted by Robert56
NX Ricky, I just looked through the NOS catalog and I found Zero wet kits with redundant noids. Their dry kits use them. The direct Port kits use one pair fuel/n2o noids per bank, but that's not redundant, as the fuel/n2o lines are split and run to each rather than through two inline. I do know the 5177 wires the first noid through the fpss, but I do both. I agree, I wouldn't use the power shot noids for progressive, not quite good enough for that harsh enviroment. Oh, I wasn't thinking disrespect, but rather not answering my question.
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Hey Ricky how do you recommend wiring a four solenoid system with the NX Maximizer? I read the Maximizer is only capable of driving two solenoids, is this true?
I'm using two seperate relays with a window and wide open switch now, but would like to increase the the juice with the help of the Maximizer.
Thanks for any input...
I'm using two seperate relays with a window and wide open switch now, but would like to increase the the juice with the help of the Maximizer.
Thanks for any input...
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I will need to know how old the unit is. You might just need another driver ran in parrell. Give me an idea on when you purchased the unit and I can go from there.
Ricky
Ricky
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I just purchased it from the moderator here, 383LQ4SS. I assume it's a new one but not the brand new version.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ight=maximizer
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ight=maximizer