tune rich and spray after the maf
#1
tune rich and spray after the maf
i have 5.3 heads on a ls1 with a .591 .569 on a 112lsa cam stock bottom end. I am currently spraying a 100shot. I moved the jet to where i was told to put it before the maf and it wasnt hitting nearly as hard and puffing black smoke out. So i put it back to where i had it after the maf and now it is hitting alot harder i am not sure of the air fuel mixture or timing i had the computer mailed order tuned by jesse bubb. good guy. Well my ? is will a wet shot hit alot harder than this dry shot? Also i have two walbro inline pumps so pressure is not a problem and i have a ajustable fuel pressure reg. I have the reg set at 62psi on full throttle and it seems to run good a lil rich off spray but seems good on spray. How hard is it on my motor to be spraying after the maf? I didnt like the way it felt spraying before the maf. thanks guys for the help also what octane should i run i am running 5.3 heads milled .020 no port work. stock valves. i am thinking 93 octane isnt good enough on spray by the way this is all in my 93 chevy truck
#2
Originally Posted by flippincamaro
i have 5.3 heads on a ls1 with a .591 .569 on a 112lsa cam stock bottom end. I am currently spraying a 100shot. I moved the jet to where i was told to put it before the maf and it wasnt hitting nearly as hard and puffing black smoke out. So i put it back to where i had it after the maf and now it is hitting alot harder i am not sure of the air fuel mixture or timing i had the computer mailed order tuned by jesse bubb. good guy. Well my ? is will a wet shot hit alot harder than this dry shot? Also i have two walbro inline pumps so pressure is not a problem and i have a ajustable fuel pressure reg. I have the reg set at 62psi on full throttle and it seems to run good a lil rich off spray but seems good on spray. How hard is it on my motor to be spraying after the maf? I didnt like the way it felt spraying before the maf. thanks guys for the help also what octane should i run i am running 5.3 heads milled .020 no port work. stock valves. i am thinking 93 octane isnt good enough on spray by the way this is all in my 93 chevy truck
Last edited by code4; 07-14-2005 at 12:08 AM.
#3
Originally Posted by flippincamaro
i have 5.3 heads on a ls1 with a .591 .569 on a 112lsa cam stock bottom end. I am currently spraying a 100shot. I moved the jet to where i was told to put it before the maf and it wasnt hitting nearly as hard and puffing black smoke out. So i put it back to where i had it after the maf and now it is hitting alot harder i am not sure of the air fuel mixture or timing i had the computer mailed order tuned by jesse bubb. good guy. Well my ? is will a wet shot hit alot harder than this dry shot? Also i have two walbro inline pumps so pressure is not a problem and i have a ajustable fuel pressure reg. I have the reg set at 62psi on full throttle and it seems to run good a lil rich off spray but seems good on spray. How hard is it on my motor to be spraying after the maf? I didnt like the way it felt spraying before the maf. thanks guys for the help also what octane should i run i am running 5.3 heads milled .020 no port work. stock valves. i am thinking 93 octane isnt good enough on spray by the way this is all in my 93 chevy truck
#7
FormerVendor
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Yes a wet system will hit harder.You will alo make more torque with the wet system.We offer a dry to wet conversion.However if you are using the crappy NOS solenoids I suggest selling your system and letting me hook you up with a Stage 1 EFI Nitrous Express system.
Dave
Dave
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Dave,
I prefer the 5177 dry kit for street use, but are there better NO2 soleniods out there? Should I use my NX wet kit NO2 soleniod on my dry setup?
I prefer the 5177 dry kit for street use, but are there better NO2 soleniods out there? Should I use my NX wet kit NO2 soleniod on my dry setup?
Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
Yes a wet system will hit harder.You will alo make more torque with the wet system.We offer a dry to wet conversion.However if you are using the crappy NOS solenoids I suggest selling your system and letting me hook you up with a Stage 1 EFI Nitrous Express system.
Dave
Dave
Last edited by bickelfirebird; 07-14-2005 at 09:04 AM.
#10
Originally Posted by flippincamaro
Can i spray the wet kit after the maf? i like the way it hits right now with the spray after the maf. How long do you think the engine will last like this? Like i said i have a fpr i can adjust thanks guys also nitro dave how much for the whole good kit?
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have you been to a dyno with a wideband yet? On motor? on spray?
Sounds like there are a few things off on your tune. If you are staying dry...move the nozzle in front of the maf. But if its not hitting hard and blowing smoke its likely too rich. You will need to play around with nozzle placement and/or get a dyno tune to set things straight.
If you are running well on motor (sounds like you may be rich?)...going with a wet kit and spraying after the MAF is probably the easiest option as Dave said. You will spend more on tuning to try to figure out whats up with the dry than it will cost for the wet conversion. Once you go wet...you will then adjust AF with the jets. I still recomend putting your car on a dyno with wideband on motor and on spray after your done.
Dry kits are great...it just sounds like you may have some funky things going on there that will require money to figure out. Its not the dry kits fault...but it appears the easiest solution may be a wet conversion.
Sounds like there are a few things off on your tune. If you are staying dry...move the nozzle in front of the maf. But if its not hitting hard and blowing smoke its likely too rich. You will need to play around with nozzle placement and/or get a dyno tune to set things straight.
If you are running well on motor (sounds like you may be rich?)...going with a wet kit and spraying after the MAF is probably the easiest option as Dave said. You will spend more on tuning to try to figure out whats up with the dry than it will cost for the wet conversion. Once you go wet...you will then adjust AF with the jets. I still recomend putting your car on a dyno with wideband on motor and on spray after your done.
Dry kits are great...it just sounds like you may have some funky things going on there that will require money to figure out. Its not the dry kits fault...but it appears the easiest solution may be a wet conversion.