Insanekamel

I cant get my nos 5177 kit with window switch to fire. I think the window switch does not work how can I know for sure. I have it tapped into the tach wire and I cut the blue and red wires on it.. I have a dig multimeter what should I check?
-Steve-

gollum

iTrader: (1)

With my BMN I have to switch to 4 cylinder mode. You would think 8 cylinder mode would work, but the LS1 sends tach signal in 4 cylinder mode. Call NOS 270-781-9741

XTrooper

I believe cutting the red and blue loops on the MSD window switch does put it in 4-cylinder mode. I don't know what the problem could be unless it's somehow not getting the tach signal. If that connection is good, maybe it's a faulty unit?

Insanekamel

I hope it's not faulty cause I bought it from a guy on corvetteforum. But how can I test my tach wire? It may have came loose. If I hook up the multimeter to it what should it read? ohms? volts?.....
-Steve-

gollum

iTrader: (1)

Check your spliced connection with the OHM setting, pierce the OEM wire and then pierce the Window switch wire. Your needle should almost peg the meter. I do not know what a digital meter should read, you could touch both positive and negetive probes together to find out.

Z284U2TRY

iTrader: (5)

you running a fpss if so try by passing it and see if it works.

Insanekamel

I tried that and nothing. I think its my MSD window switch. But It maybe my tach wire. I dont wanna order a new window switch and have the same problem. What I would like to know is how can I test my wire that I connected to the tach wire without taking the damn wheel off agian (c5). Does anyone know what kind of read outs I should get with a multimeter?

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

Set your DMM to low DC voltage and probe the tach wire with the positive lead, while grounding the negative lead of the DMM to the car.

NOSjohn

iTrader: (9)

Are you positive you tapped the correct tach. signal wire? They are 2 electrical boxes down in the same area. One is for misc. elect. and the other is your PCM. To the un-trained eye, they both have a #10 white wire. Make sure you have tapped the white wire on the PCM.

Does your WS light up when you put direct power to it?

Insanekamel

I got the correct wire, cause I was not sure if it was it so I cut it and then turned the key and no tach. I think that the wire I attached maybe fell off or something.... I still need to check it but have been so busy.....

red fury

iTrader: (1)

those wires are so small you might need to "sawter" (spell?) them back together and use a piggyback to tap into it with the window switch wire further down. I am suprised you cut the wire in half just to see if it was the right one, you gotta be patient and just post a question and wait for the answer or call a LSx speed shop!

Insanekamel

Well I just got back from camping.. And I used the multimeter on the wire that I think is the tach wire(put the red in it and grounded the black). All I got was 6.5volts no matter what rpm I was at. So I think i tapped into the wrong wire. Ahhh taking the damn wheel off agian.

NOSjohn

iTrader: (9)

Very cool, hope you get the correct wire - #10 white wire on PCM. It will be tough due to being upside down and sideways but you can find it.

BluMachine

You can also get a tach signal from under the fuse/relay panel under the hood by the battery. Do a search on the Z06 and Vette forums. Someone had posted a pic as I recall. Seems like it was a white wire on the side towards the radiator. As I recall, the Tach wire voltage was around 5-6 volts and didn't change with rpm so you may have the right wire.

Good luck.

Edit: bypass the window switch and try to spray without it if you haven't already. Make sure the rpm is over 3500 and traction control is off (or competitive mode) before you go WOT.

Edit2: Found the link on Z06vette.com... and who said they were just a bunch of waxers

http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showt...ight=tach+wire

Insanekamel

well then I must have the correct wire????? ahhhh. If so then my window switch is bad. I will test it out today with the window switch bypassed and see what happends.

Insanekamel

well last night I bypassed the window switch and hit the streets. I found a good open space and hit the n20 above 3k in 2nd gear and all that happend was blowing a fuse. The fuse that blew is the one that powers my toggle switch and the n20 stuff. It was to late to go to autozone so I went home sad agian. Why whould the fuse blow as soon as the wot switch as hit?
-Steve-

half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

it seems to me that it is not wired in correctly. in order to truly test a tach wire for that signal you can put a multi meter on it on the AC setting, not DC. then when you rev the engine up the voltage should raise with the rpm. place the positive lead on the wire and the negative lead to ground. now as far as the fuse blowing the only way that that can happen is this...

you are most likely running a wire from the fuse to the switch. and then a wire from the hswitch to activate your nitrous kit/selenoid. or fromt he switch to the WOT switcha nd then to your selenoinds. somewhere after the toggle switch the wire may be grounding out, and the only time that you can see that it is grounding out is when the switch energizes the wire.

another possiblilty is that somewhere in your circuit you have the wire going to ground and then when the switch is flipped it pops the fuse.

the last possibility is this. the fuse is too small to run the selenoids and this one i cannot comment on because i have to idea how much current they pull.

Insanekamel

I think that maybe the problem cause it took a sec after the wot switch was hit. I was waiting for the n20 to hit and all i heard was a small spark from the fuse box. I will try a bigger fuse. Does anyone know what I should use?

NOSjohn

iTrader: (9)

Are you using a Relay in-line with your wiring? You should have at least a 30 or 40 amp relay for safety sake. You can also test the system without running it on the street...but that is up to you. I can give you direction how, just let me know.

Insanekamel

tell me how