Please help guys! In the middle!

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Sep 14, 2005 | 05:37 PM

Smoker_98

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Please help guys! In the middle!

Ok Im still trying to get the 5177 to fire without any luck. I really think its either the wot switch or the fpss. Ok how can I bypass the fpss? Do I just "jump" the two onto one of the screws? If so then could I set my window switch down to idle and then click the wot switch? Obviously the lines will not be spraying into the air box.

Sep 14, 2005 | 05:40 PM

XTrooper

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From: NE PA

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Originally Posted by Smoker_98

Yes, all you have to do is connect the two wires going to your FPSS together with the WOT switch on and it should fire. Be careful where you spray that nitrous and fuel!

Sep 14, 2005 | 05:42 PM

XTrooper

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From: NE PA

If it is the FPSS, try adjusting it a 1/4 to 1/2 turn (counterclockwise) as it may be set a little too high. I just had to do the same with mine.

Sep 14, 2005 | 05:47 PM

Smoker_98

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I tried that and its not firing! I undid the lines from T so that n20 would spray out, but not into the lid. . ... Any suggestions? Could wot switches go bad? It used to work 6 monthes ago I just never filled the bottle back up again. Ive checked and re-checked all my wiring.

Sep 14, 2005 | 06:06 PM

Smoker_98

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See the thing is my purge still works fine . ... So I know my wiring has to be right. Its was all done the same. So why wont the main noids fire?

Sep 14, 2005 | 07:09 PM

dlmater

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From: Glen Allen VA

If you have eliminated the FPSS by jumping it, the window switch and WOT switch would be the next thing to check. Any switch can go bad, including the solenoid itself. Do you have an electrical meter to check continuity across the WOT switch contacts? You can buy really inexpensive ones at any home store, walmart, auto parts stores, etc. This would be the best way to check all the wiring such as switches, relays, etc. without removing components or guessing. Good Luck

Sep 14, 2005 | 07:40 PM

XTrooper

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From: NE PA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smoker_98

As already stated, any switch can go bad, so it could very well be a bad WOT switch. You could check it even with a simple hot wire tester (the ones that are built like an ice pick with a bulb in the handle and an alligator clamp on the end of a wire for grounding. Just arm the system, hold the WOT switch closed, and check to see if you're getting power in the wire from it to your solenoid. If you're using a window switch, it would be my prime suspect, but you could still eliminate the WOT switch as the problem by checking it as described. It's highly unlikely, though not impossible, that it's the solenoid(s) itself.