nos intake explosion
Two things I noticed ready some of the last posts. The issue of n20 spraying into the motor. Someone correct me if I am wrong, nitrous is not flamable and in fact it was the extra gas being sprayed that caused the explosion.
Second, refering to this kit as NOS over and over. NOS is Nitrous Oxide Systems, a freaking company. Any time you capitalize a group of letters it means that it is an abbreviation for something (like a company). Seems (didn't reread posts) that this was another manufacturer and a wet kit, no?
YOU WILL NOT BLOW THE TOP OF YOUR MOTOR/HOOD SPRAYING NITROUS ONLY, PERIOD. You might go lean and cause a problem that way. Watch for a new thread on this issue I am going to start with real world experiance.
I couldn't find any pics or video at link given?
Robert
Second, refering to this kit as NOS over and over. NOS is Nitrous Oxide Systems, a freaking company. Any time you capitalize a group of letters it means that it is an abbreviation for something (like a company). Seems (didn't reread posts) that this was another manufacturer and a wet kit, no?
YOU WILL NOT BLOW THE TOP OF YOUR MOTOR/HOOD SPRAYING NITROUS ONLY, PERIOD. You might go lean and cause a problem that way. Watch for a new thread on this issue I am going to start with real world experiance.
I couldn't find any pics or video at link given?
Robert
Another thing you need to remember, the fuse is there only to protect the wire from melting & catching on fire. NOT to disengage a malfuntioning solenoid. A 16g wire will carry 20 amps. If you are using a smaller wire there (like 18g), the wire will melt & the 20A fuse will not blow. If you want to remove power from the NO2 system in the event something like this happens, put in a kill switch. The fuse will not save you. But the wire shouldn't have caused this, it was a result. It was melting because something else shorted & was drawing too much current.....
Not trying to flip ****, just adding some electrical engineering facts.
Not trying to flip ****, just adding some electrical engineering facts.
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Nitrous is not flamable. But if nitrous gets into the intake any intake, and then started I bet it will go pop...
There is always a fuel vapor or oil vapor inside the intake even a efi car has these fuel vapors in the intake.... The vapor is what goes boomm, the nitrous just helps it along it a hurry...
Now with a wet kit there is more vapor just the nature of things.
Ricky
There is always a fuel vapor or oil vapor inside the intake even a efi car has these fuel vapors in the intake.... The vapor is what goes boomm, the nitrous just helps it along it a hurry...
Now with a wet kit there is more vapor just the nature of things.
Ricky
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Sorry to hear about the car. It's a good thing you were just sitting in the pits and could get out of the car easily/quickly.
That is a good point to throw out there Robert. I would rank this probably in the top 5 misconceptions about nitrous problems. N2O by itself is absolutely not flammable, meaning that a spark will not ignite it. However, it is an oxidizer which means if there is already a flame, adding nitrous to it will make it bigger.
That is a good point to throw out there Robert. I would rank this probably in the top 5 misconceptions about nitrous problems. N2O by itself is absolutely not flammable, meaning that a spark will not ignite it. However, it is an oxidizer which means if there is already a flame, adding nitrous to it will make it bigger.
Originally Posted by Robert56
Two things I noticed ready some of the last posts. The issue of n20 spraying into the motor. Someone correct me if I am wrong, nitrous is not flamable and in fact it was the extra gas being sprayed that caused the explosion.
YOU WILL NOT BLOW THE TOP OF YOUR MOTOR/HOOD SPRAYING NITROUS ONLY, PERIOD. You might go lean and cause a problem that way.
Robert
YOU WILL NOT BLOW THE TOP OF YOUR MOTOR/HOOD SPRAYING NITROUS ONLY, PERIOD. You might go lean and cause a problem that way.
Robert
Hey this is a good conversation here.I have seen Nitrous Backfires with NO fuel involved.Just a hanging Nitrous solenoid and then the person turn the key on and BOOM. Something has to set off the charge. It had no fuel from the fuel solenoid just Nitrous.
Dave
Dave
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Originally Posted by mattkimsey
Is their any way to prevent injecting nitrous when the motor isn't running.....besides the obvious?
Ricky
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Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
Another thing you need to remember, the fuse is there only to protect the wire from melting & catching on fire. NOT to disengage a malfuntioning solenoid. A 16g wire will carry 20 amps. If you are using a smaller wire there (like 18g), the wire will melt & the 20A fuse will not blow. If you want to remove power from the NO2 system in the event something like this happens, put in a kill switch. The fuse will not save you. But the wire shouldn't have caused this, it was a result. It was melting because something else shorted & was drawing too much current.....
Not trying to flip ****, just adding some electrical engineering facts.
Not trying to flip ****, just adding some electrical engineering facts.
I can't help with the issue at hand... but here's something a Forced induction with nitrous application might try...
Use a hobbs switch for 3 or more psi to complete the ground on your relay. With this installed, the relay cannot turn on unless you are making at least 3 psi which ensures you can't spray on an idling engine or during start up or turning your key on. I think it makes a pretty darn good safety.
Now trying to decide how big of a shot to run on a FI motor is another story all together... LOL
Use a hobbs switch for 3 or more psi to complete the ground on your relay. With this installed, the relay cannot turn on unless you are making at least 3 psi which ensures you can't spray on an idling engine or during start up or turning your key on. I think it makes a pretty darn good safety.
Now trying to decide how big of a shot to run on a FI motor is another story all together... LOL
Originally Posted by CHarris
I can't help with the issue at hand... but here's something a Forced induction with nitrous application might try...
Use a hobbs switch for 3 or more psi to complete the ground on your relay. With this installed, the relay cannot turn on unless you are making at least 3 psi which ensures you can't spray on an idling engine or during start up or turning your key on. I think it makes a pretty darn good safety.
Now trying to decide how big of a shot to run on a FI motor is another story all together... LOL
Use a hobbs switch for 3 or more psi to complete the ground on your relay. With this installed, the relay cannot turn on unless you are making at least 3 psi which ensures you can't spray on an idling engine or during start up or turning your key on. I think it makes a pretty darn good safety.
Now trying to decide how big of a shot to run on a FI motor is another story all together... LOL
well when u turn the key on it will prime the pump which will make alot more than 3psi
Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
Hey this is a good conversation here.I have seen Nitrous Backfires with NO fuel involved.Just a hanging Nitrous solenoid and then the person turn the key on and BOOM. Something has to set off the charge. It had no fuel from the fuel solenoid just Nitrous.
Dave
Dave
Robert
So try this scenario. The motor was spinning to 6k by itself & was shutoff off. That means 2 things to me, 1 the No2 solenoid was full-on (a short somewhere) and 2 that dumped some extra fuel into the intake. So when the key was shut off, the shorted noid continued to flow nitrous, pushing super oxygenated fuel vapors all over the engine compartment. It finally reached the burning wire and ignited, with the flame going back to the source, which was an enclosed space. Result = the plastic intake went Boom!
Originally Posted by Tatoy
... Gonna run a 15 amp next .. I t was only in the initial arming wire so I might have to install on before each and after each relay this time..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/400539-new-discussion-wiring.html
NO it has nothing to do with fuel from the wet kit.Here is an example.His happed in the burn out box.He had not even sprayed yet.I have seen this before. If a nitrous solenoid sticks open.AS ricky said there is always fuel vapors in the intake.With or with out Nitrous.Im thinking the nitrous somehow inhanced those fuel vapors to explode.
Dave
Dave
Originally Posted by Frans96SS
well when u turn the key on it will prime the pump which will make alot more than 3psi
Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
NO it has nothing to do with fuel from the wet kit.Here is an example.His happed in the burn out box.He had not even sprayed yet.I have seen this before. If a nitrous solenoid sticks open.AS ricky said there is always fuel vapors in the intake.With or with out Nitrous.Im thinking the nitrous somehow inhanced those fuel vapors to explode.
Dave
Dave
Robert
Yeah, I recall that incident Robert....kinda spooky since someone just posted that thread about the Z06 burning up at the starting line. Seems to me like there is a trend here, albeit with a small % of cars. But something is happening to get fuel, oxygen & a spark present when there shouldn't be. I wish I knew more about nitrous to be able to contribute to figuring this out.....
Robert. I have not went back and read from the beggining.But you are ringht in this case. If he had a wiring problem which he did it probley did hang the solenoid open.
However yes I have seen a nitrous solenoid (only) hang open and cause a nasty back fire. That why IM saying it had to be the fuel vapors in the intake from the car itself in the case I am thinking about.
Dave
However yes I have seen a nitrous solenoid (only) hang open and cause a nasty back fire. That why IM saying it had to be the fuel vapors in the intake from the car itself in the case I am thinking about.
Dave