Fast intake upper blow off idea..ONLY!!!!!
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Fast intake upper blow off idea..ONLY!!!!!
Ok after seeing the huge boom and complete destruction of a fast intake, I came up with an idea...
If you took 10 longer bolts, and 10 springs, the intire intake could come apart in a worst case problem..
See the bolts colapse the spring O about 1/2 way there travel, and the springs hold the intake down and keep it sealed, lets say up to 20psi, for those boosted guys... Then if you go boom the intire top of the intake will lift off and reset.
WHAT yall think..
Ricky
If you took 10 longer bolts, and 10 springs, the intire intake could come apart in a worst case problem..
See the bolts colapse the spring O about 1/2 way there travel, and the springs hold the intake down and keep it sealed, lets say up to 20psi, for those boosted guys... Then if you go boom the intire top of the intake will lift off and reset.
WHAT yall think..
Ricky
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Sounds good in theory. I think it would take quite a bit of testing to get the right stiffness of spring, and there would probably be sealing issues. I wonder if in an actual explosion the intake would have time to lift, or if it would just come apart. Things happen so fast in an explosion, this is probably why the burst panels have not taken car of the this problem. Has anybody ever tried anything like this before? Way to think out of the box.
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I'm wondering if the burst panels offer enough surface area to release the pressure, and if the burst panels need to be bigger. What about running a single, larger burst panel on the bottom of the intake? Or the back, as that might offer enough space as well. I could hook you up with a few burst panels if needed. If you use a used one, it will be slightly weaker, and easier to pop, but it will still hold at least 20 psi of boost. I think that is where we are going to find our answers.
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Originally Posted by NXRICKY
Ok after seeing the huge boom and complete destruction of a fast intake, WHAT yall think..
Ricky
Ricky
Last edited by Macon; 10-25-2005 at 09:13 PM.
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Interesting concept Ricky. I am sure there could be a way to make it work. Hell they got burst panels to work, but under real conditions I believe as stated, the bottom plate would need a huge plate to blow off to drop the pressure from the backfire/explosion quick enough to keep the integrity of the plastic.
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what about drilling out the hole where the egr would be, and making a pressure blow disk, or whatever they're called.
Ill trade somebody my LS1 intake for a LS6 so you can work on it with out having to drill the hole...
Ill trade somebody my LS1 intake for a LS6 so you can work on it with out having to drill the hole...
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Now see Robert we are talking about fast cars not dry kits. lol... The concept is to try and save those really expensive intakes, if the pop happens.. Even a dry kit from time time acts up, and sure their is more of a poofff, than a boommmm and we know why POWER BABY.....haha.... Anyway staying on track..... There might be a problem but its just thinking outloud... I usually get in trouble this kind of stuff. But if comp comes out this type of set up I want a payment..
Ricky
Ricky
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hmmm,, you could just cut the bottom out, and lay a very very light beed of silicone and a flat piece to cover the hole,,, but any little sneeze and you are pulling the intake..
Ricky
Ricky
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hmmmmmm, where do you find longer 8mm bolts? this would work on ALL ls based intakes.
with an N/A motor, you really wouldn't need anymore then 5-6 pound springs to hold it on and if the springs are fairly long, the intake will "jump" enough to get rid of most any backfire. we have rubber seals so it doesn't take much to seal the intake to the heads. heck, there was a time when i only had half the bolts on the intake and those were just barely snug. it never leaked or anything
i think i'm gonna do this! its worth a shot (pun intended).
saving 1k plus in parts plus all your labor bending the lines and such with the direct port by just trying it out doesn't seem like a bad deal to me
with an N/A motor, you really wouldn't need anymore then 5-6 pound springs to hold it on and if the springs are fairly long, the intake will "jump" enough to get rid of most any backfire. we have rubber seals so it doesn't take much to seal the intake to the heads. heck, there was a time when i only had half the bolts on the intake and those were just barely snug. it never leaked or anything
i think i'm gonna do this! its worth a shot (pun intended).
saving 1k plus in parts plus all your labor bending the lines and such with the direct port by just trying it out doesn't seem like a bad deal to me
Last edited by ramairstyle00; 10-26-2005 at 10:52 AM.
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Personnally, I don't think the FAST intake is very well suited for a setup of this type. The plastic/polymer/whatever you want to call it, is softer that the the aluminum that the burst panel is made otu of. Those tiny little burst panels they have now, while a good idea in theory, are laughable in real practice. I beleive that the only real way to be able to run a burst panel, and NOT throw away a manifols in the event of a boom, is to run an aluminum manifold. My flame suit is on.
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Originally Posted by Z284U2TRY
weind has a intake that is already backfire proof. In theory your idea sounds good but with all the r/d it will take the demand is not high enough.
Robert
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The intake wouldn't travel straight up in an explosion. It would only ignite in one of the intake runners and would push horizontally on the intake pressing it into another corner of the valley and against the other head. When the explosion occurs in the intake runner it is looking for the shortest possible route out, and therefore, the plastic intake runner would come apart long before the spring could do its work. For the spring to work the expanding gasses from the explosion would have to travel clear into the head find the intake valve closed, then travel back to the intake and find a dead end to push against. This is why the blow off panels work because the are directly in the intake runner and can give way instantaniously.
#18
I wish I had my fast intake infront of me so I could see how it bolts together and knew the intake pressure of an N/A car but here it goes anyhow.
Take the bottem plate and bolt it to the top of the engine. Now take the top plate and open the bolt holes enough so that it fits down over the tops of the bolts securing the bottom half to the engine. After everything lines up pull the top cover off and run a bead of sealant around were the two halves seal then line it up and press the thing on. Now this wouldnt work for the FI guys but it might work for everyone else. I think I would make a small cable or something to keep the top half from hitting the hood when it blew.
Take the bottem plate and bolt it to the top of the engine. Now take the top plate and open the bolt holes enough so that it fits down over the tops of the bolts securing the bottom half to the engine. After everything lines up pull the top cover off and run a bead of sealant around were the two halves seal then line it up and press the thing on. Now this wouldnt work for the FI guys but it might work for everyone else. I think I would make a small cable or something to keep the top half from hitting the hood when it blew.
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Originally Posted by NXRICKY
Now see Robert we are talking about fast cars not dry kits. lol... The concept is to try and save those really expensive intakes, if the pop happens.. Even a dry kit from time time acts up, and sure their is more of a poofff, than a boommmm and we know why POWER BABY.....haha.... Anyway staying on track..... There might be a problem but its just thinking outloud... I usually get in trouble this kind of stuff. But if comp comes out this type of set up I want a payment..
Ricky
Ricky
We have 9.8 drag radial dry shot h/c street cars around here, do they count as fast cars?