Is a 100rwhp dry safe?
11-20-2005, 08:55 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Robert56
...and the answer is, because it doesn't happen on dry hits, period. I have been stating for a few years, on a couple sites, try to find someone who has hurt their motor running a 5177, no takers yet. Furthermore, the 5177 is the most popular dry kit, and on of the most popular kits concerning wet or dry.
I had the n20 stick on a run and bottle went from about 1000psi to 600psi and was still spraying on the return lane. No problemo, hurt nothing and continued to race after fixing wot switch (it was taped down and drove to track with it spraying both stages above 3000rpm, try this with a wet kit.
Robert
I had the n20 stick on a run and bottle went from about 1000psi to 600psi and was still spraying on the return lane. No problemo, hurt nothing and continued to race after fixing wot switch (it was taped down and drove to track with it spraying both stages above 3000rpm, try this with a wet kit.
Robert
Last edited by cantdrv65; 11-20-2005 at 09:23 PM.
11-20-2005, 10:27 PM
#22
Originally Posted by cantdrv65
Robert if you ask about a 5177 kit obviously the failure rate is going to be VERY LOW....So is the POWER GAIN. It is a very small hit of nitrous.....
Robert
11-20-2005, 11:12 PM
#23
These post kill me....
I have seen explosions from DRY kits also. They are not as violant as a wet kit. However if you follow the rules run a WINDOW SWITCH and make smart decisions either system will give you years of injoyment. A dry kit is great for the everage street guy. For the guys that are looking for the easest all oout performance I would suggest a quality wet system..
I personally like our dry systems and we have put much effort into making our dry systems are made of the best quality products on the market. If you are looking for a great begginer system our DRY kit is a graet selection. The good thing is if you decide to go wet in the future all you need is the fuel side.We use the best Nitrous solenoid on the market for our dry kits to...
Dave
I have seen explosions from DRY kits also. They are not as violant as a wet kit. However if you follow the rules run a WINDOW SWITCH and make smart decisions either system will give you years of injoyment. A dry kit is great for the everage street guy. For the guys that are looking for the easest all oout performance I would suggest a quality wet system..
I personally like our dry systems and we have put much effort into making our dry systems are made of the best quality products on the market. If you are looking for a great begginer system our DRY kit is a graet selection. The good thing is if you decide to go wet in the future all you need is the fuel side.We use the best Nitrous solenoid on the market for our dry kits to...
Dave
11-21-2005, 12:03 AM
#25
Originally Posted by Robert56
Hey, Dave, we've missed you concerning the never ending debate. The way I see it, going over this issue more than a few times is a learning thing for the new guys to glean infromation from, not so much an absolute on anything. 
Robert
Robert
Dave
11-21-2005, 12:27 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Another misconception, the 5177 can be made to run 300hp by only purchasing some jets. All the guys around here running this kit are in the 11's deep, on stock cars, explain your low power theroy on this (or look at my time below on absolutly bone stock and not even headers time?). I'd like to see your improvements when you were running the 5177, or are you just trying to jump on the bash NOS wagon to justify your now selected kit?
Robert
Robert
Sure you can add parts/solenoids and hence expense and make the kit produce more power...My question is WHY, when you could just go with a simple NX single nozzle or TNT ring and get up to 200rwhp safely without making any modifcations to the kit....
11-21-2005, 02:36 AM
#27
Originally Posted by cantdrv65
Its not a misconception at all...The noids with the 5177 will only flow about a 150rwhp shot with JETS REMOVED.... Try that with a TNT or NX noid and you'll be picking pieces up from WA to TX...
Sure you can add parts/solenoids and hence expense and make the kit produce more power...My question is WHY, when you could just go with a simple NX single nozzle or TNT ring and get up to 200rwhp safely without making any modifcations to the kit....
Sure you can add parts/solenoids and hence expense and make the kit produce more power...My question is WHY, when you could just go with a simple NX single nozzle or TNT ring and get up to 200rwhp safely without making any modifcations to the kit....
cantdrv65 quote:
"Try that with TNT or NX noid and you'll be picking pieces up from WA to Texas..."
I know my point exactly.
Just busting your *****, I know what you meant, but couldn't resist.
Robert
Last edited by Robert56; 11-21-2005 at 12:14 PM.
11-21-2005, 12:24 PM
#30
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I just dynoed with a 5177 kit set to 100 rwhp. My gains over NA were 94rwhp and 111rwtq (using best hp/tq from both runs). Here's the video.....
http://nelsonresidence.com/vehicles/...OSdynoRun2.wmv
http://nelsonresidence.com/vehicles/...OSdynoRun2.wmv
