Freeze MAF
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Freeze MAF
Not sure correct forum, but here it goes.
"04 GTO"
I would like to keep the K&N aircharger. The avalible locations would put the N20 nozzle too close to the MAF. Can I modify the MAF tube to relocate MAF closer to intake to allow required distance to keep from freezing or obtaining improper readings through MAF. My hopes are to install nozzle in tube without causing problems with MAF. I plan on spraying no more than 100 shot.
Thanx
"04 GTO"
I would like to keep the K&N aircharger. The avalible locations would put the N20 nozzle too close to the MAF. Can I modify the MAF tube to relocate MAF closer to intake to allow required distance to keep from freezing or obtaining improper readings through MAF. My hopes are to install nozzle in tube without causing problems with MAF. I plan on spraying no more than 100 shot.
Thanx
#4
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Port Richey
Posts: 4,266
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hmmm...that looks good as it sits. i would hate to have to start hacking it up. I know it certainly can be done. You could relocate the maf directly in front of the throttle body. You may need to trim it back a little to give you the room.
Or...you might try to make some type of spray bar like Nitro Daves that he offers for the LS1. Wouldnt be hard to make. I think it would distribute the nitrous in time. That damn filter is awefully small though.
Or you could just opt for a wet kit. That would be easy enough. Just install the nozzle in the tube in a convient location that looks good.
Or...you might try to make some type of spray bar like Nitro Daves that he offers for the LS1. Wouldnt be hard to make. I think it would distribute the nitrous in time. That damn filter is awefully small though.
Or you could just opt for a wet kit. That would be easy enough. Just install the nozzle in the tube in a convient location that looks good.
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Turlock, Ca
Posts: 1,735
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Without seeing the end of the filter it's hard to tell. Can you take a circular metal plate and attach that to the end of filter? Then drill the plate and filter end for mounting?
Hawk
Hawk
#6
Staging Lane
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tomball, Texas
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The quick and easy way would be to follow the advise of 227Hawk. In earlier model multi port cars the MAF was located closer to the throttle body. The reason the automobile manufacturers moved the MAF was due to slight drivability issues.
Trending Topics
#9
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,604
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
The MAF may not like being put by the TB, due to
that intake tract's abrupt bend. Centrifugal bias of
the air stream will skew the output, and this will
be even worse if you descreen. But if you moved
the MAF to a couple of inches before the last bend
that should fly. Presuming everything clears. That
doesn't look like much of a gain though.
A dedicated wet setup with its own mini-tank of high
octane is definitely worth consideration. A bit more
price, but you can then forget all about maxing the
injectors, MAF or the fuel pump, tune by wrench
etc.
Now, just in case you may have missed it, the oiled
type air filter is prone to leave some of the oil on
the MAF sense wires, over time drifting the
calibration lean and causing ping and A4 shifting to
soften. Over-oiling will get you there even faster.
Anyway, GM will refuse warranty service on related
issues if they see one of those in the engine bay. So
put your pants back on if company's coming.
Though from the list it doesn't look like enthusiastic
GM warranty support is in your future anyway
that intake tract's abrupt bend. Centrifugal bias of
the air stream will skew the output, and this will
be even worse if you descreen. But if you moved
the MAF to a couple of inches before the last bend
that should fly. Presuming everything clears. That
doesn't look like much of a gain though.
A dedicated wet setup with its own mini-tank of high
octane is definitely worth consideration. A bit more
price, but you can then forget all about maxing the
injectors, MAF or the fuel pump, tune by wrench
etc.
Now, just in case you may have missed it, the oiled
type air filter is prone to leave some of the oil on
the MAF sense wires, over time drifting the
calibration lean and causing ping and A4 shifting to
soften. Over-oiling will get you there even faster.
Anyway, GM will refuse warranty service on related
issues if they see one of those in the engine bay. So
put your pants back on if company's coming.
Though from the list it doesn't look like enthusiastic
GM warranty support is in your future anyway
#10
FormerVendor
iTrader: (25)
I have helped a customer with this same set up. what we did was take one of our standard dry kit nozzles and cut the tip off of it. This makes it a straight blow through nozzle.Then he screwed it straight into the end of the filter. You may try that before going through all the troubles of relocating the maff. It seem to work well for him.
Dave
Dave
#11
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Fairview Heights Illinois
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
MAF needs to be descreened before you spray through it anyway. I wouldn't move the MAF. It will be fine spraying right on it from close proximity, or as others suggest spray straight in from the end of your filter. Either way will work.
#12
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All good advice.
I had thought of installing nozzle in the end of filter. Not sure where the shot would be aimed and would some N20 excape into the engine compartment?
Moving the MAF would be alot of work and I would need to make my own MAF tube.
I may go wet in the future, but would like to start with dry.
I think I will put the stock box back on and maybe attempt to use the K&N tube or another freer flowing tube.
I had heard about the oil affecting the MAF, and the warrenty issues. I might be able to get my seat motor covered, but thats about it.
Thanks
I had thought of installing nozzle in the end of filter. Not sure where the shot would be aimed and would some N20 excape into the engine compartment?
Moving the MAF would be alot of work and I would need to make my own MAF tube.
I may go wet in the future, but would like to start with dry.
I think I will put the stock box back on and maybe attempt to use the K&N tube or another freer flowing tube.
I had heard about the oil affecting the MAF, and the warrenty issues. I might be able to get my seat motor covered, but thats about it.
Thanks
#13
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
I have helped a customer with this same set up. what we did was take one of our standard dry kit nozzles and cut the tip off of it. This makes it a straight blow through nozzle.Then he screwed it straight into the end of the filter. You may try that before going through all the troubles of relocating the maff. It seem to work well for him.
Dave
Dave
thanks
#14
FormerVendor
iTrader: (25)
We can build a Halo spray bar for the airbox.. However what you have will work fine with one of our single nozzle dry kits.. We can machine the nozzle for you here. When you go to a wet system in the future you will already have the good NX nitrous solenoid. All you will need is the fuel side.
Dave
Dave
#15
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
I also opt for the shot in the end of the filter. Just whack the end of your 90* fan type nozzle (wasn't stated what kit) off, turning it into a straight shot nozzle. Another way I have seen (I am not saying do it) is to drill through clamp and maf housing and tap for nozzle, then turn 90* fan into the incoming air, yep it's been done.
Robert
Robert
#16
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Robert,
It's a CF/NX (politically correct) kit I am piecing together. I have decided to to drill the end of the K&N. I plan on making it as stealth (clean) as possible. This works with my plan as long as there are no problems cutting the end off the CF nozzle and having the nitous spray directly at the MAF. Do I really need to descreen? I am looking for a or two bottle/s and a place to make the install discrete. I think I need at least 10lbs total. Any Ideas?
It's a CF/NX (politically correct) kit I am piecing together. I have decided to to drill the end of the K&N. I plan on making it as stealth (clean) as possible. This works with my plan as long as there are no problems cutting the end off the CF nozzle and having the nitous spray directly at the MAF. Do I really need to descreen? I am looking for a or two bottle/s and a place to make the install discrete. I think I need at least 10lbs total. Any Ideas?
#20
FormerVendor
iTrader: (25)
Originally Posted by 227Hawk
I'm confused, will not engine vaccum pull the shot into the motor. Regardless off spray direction ,this should work?????????????
Hawk
Hawk
Dave