Some questions about DynoTune controller and solenoids
12-21-2005, 04:30 PM
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Some questions about DynoTune controller and solenoids I just got a DynoTune controller and solenoids
after doing a fair bit of window shopping. The
price was the main factor in the solenoids, I'm
only going to do a small progressive setup. I
liked the controller's combination of features
and for the price, I would have spent the about
same on parts to build my own, analog style, plus
have had to do some actual work.
Anyway, I read in the solenoid instructions that
you aren't supposed to energize the solenoids
for more than 30 seconds even with (and only
with) nitrous flowing. I guess these are not
steady state rated. Which is something I'd
never seen mentioned although the literature
says this is true of all nitrous solenoids.
Not that I intend to shoot for more than 30
seconds, but then again I do not know my 0-150
time with 50, 100 added HP (I plan to run 50 and
50, in at 4000 and 5000 and off at 6000). There
might be occasion to bump up against this. I
wonder whether removing the label and black
paint, and packing the solenoid-shell space with
thermal grease, would help. Looks like the cap-nut
could be used to mount to a heat sink plate.
Wonder too about maybe a ballast resistor. I will
have to check out the operating currents.
The controller is pretty cute, it's a little aluminum
casting "brick" with mounting ears. I need to see
if the glovebox interior can be removed or trap-
doored for a hiding place.
I plan on using this as I described, the controls
look like I can do some fairly refined things for the
minimal interface. Like, I can make shot1 come in
at 5000 in 2nd - 4th (2nd on street tires is not
able to hold traction against a 3000/2.2 converter
on 3.42s) and Shot2 in at 4000 but only in 3 & 4.
Like double progressive, 0/50 in 2nd but 50/100
in upper gears. Does this seem sensible to people
who have been playing with progressive setups?
It looks like the outputs will have to have relays
to switch the solenoid load. I wonder if I can find
a dual peak-hold driver IC that would ease the
coil heat/electrical stress. Might be cheaper than
two relays.
I plan to apply power to the whole thing with a
high side relay and circuit-breaker, new line from
some handy tie point near the battery. I think I
will run star ground too, and try to make this setup
a modular, plug-in deal (hidden plumbing and stock
appearing wiring). I plan to use my fog light switch
for bottle opener and arming relay coil. The controller,
solenoids and control relay coils will get their high
side feed from the arming relay.
The controller will drive control relay coil low sides.
Relay switch high sides sink solenoid currents. Relay
switch low sides are stacked on a third relay, to
ground return. This relay coil high side will also
be off arming relay, coil low side is to a foot button
(horn button) that I will have to depress, to allow
nitrous. A final layer of decision/escape on top of
the TPS and RPM functions.
I haven't seen many people discussing this unit or
implementation details of this sort. So what are
y'alls thoughts?
after doing a fair bit of window shopping. The
price was the main factor in the solenoids, I'm
only going to do a small progressive setup. I
liked the controller's combination of features
and for the price, I would have spent the about
same on parts to build my own, analog style, plus
have had to do some actual work.
Anyway, I read in the solenoid instructions that
you aren't supposed to energize the solenoids
for more than 30 seconds even with (and only
with) nitrous flowing. I guess these are not
steady state rated. Which is something I'd
never seen mentioned although the literature
says this is true of all nitrous solenoids.
Not that I intend to shoot for more than 30
seconds, but then again I do not know my 0-150
time with 50, 100 added HP (I plan to run 50 and
50, in at 4000 and 5000 and off at 6000). There
might be occasion to bump up against this. I
wonder whether removing the label and black
paint, and packing the solenoid-shell space with
thermal grease, would help. Looks like the cap-nut
could be used to mount to a heat sink plate.
Wonder too about maybe a ballast resistor. I will
have to check out the operating currents.
The controller is pretty cute, it's a little aluminum
casting "brick" with mounting ears. I need to see
if the glovebox interior can be removed or trap-
doored for a hiding place.
I plan on using this as I described, the controls
look like I can do some fairly refined things for the
minimal interface. Like, I can make shot1 come in
at 5000 in 2nd - 4th (2nd on street tires is not
able to hold traction against a 3000/2.2 converter
on 3.42s) and Shot2 in at 4000 but only in 3 & 4.
Like double progressive, 0/50 in 2nd but 50/100
in upper gears. Does this seem sensible to people
who have been playing with progressive setups?
It looks like the outputs will have to have relays
to switch the solenoid load. I wonder if I can find
a dual peak-hold driver IC that would ease the
coil heat/electrical stress. Might be cheaper than
two relays.
I plan to apply power to the whole thing with a
high side relay and circuit-breaker, new line from
some handy tie point near the battery. I think I
will run star ground too, and try to make this setup
a modular, plug-in deal (hidden plumbing and stock
appearing wiring). I plan to use my fog light switch
for bottle opener and arming relay coil. The controller,
solenoids and control relay coils will get their high
side feed from the arming relay.
The controller will drive control relay coil low sides.
Relay switch high sides sink solenoid currents. Relay
switch low sides are stacked on a third relay, to
ground return. This relay coil high side will also
be off arming relay, coil low side is to a foot button
(horn button) that I will have to depress, to allow
nitrous. A final layer of decision/escape on top of
the TPS and RPM functions.
I haven't seen many people discussing this unit or
implementation details of this sort. So what are
y'alls thoughts?
12-21-2005, 06:28 PM
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Man you like to write huh?
As far as the 30 sec max. warning goes, every solenoid has prety much the same deal. They do get hot if you leave them on too long. None are rated at 'steady state' except the solenoid style openers that dynotune and CF sell.
Vinny
As far as the 30 sec max. warning goes, every solenoid has prety much the same deal. They do get hot if you leave them on too long. None are rated at 'steady state' except the solenoid style openers that dynotune and CF sell.
Vinny
12-22-2005, 11:44 AM
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Problem is that with a 10lb tank you might run out of nitrous before 30 seconds....Lots of things depend on how long it will last... Im sure they can go longer as long as you have liquid nitrous flowing thorugh the solenoid..... No need to change the noids...
The controllers are new so there are not a ton of them around. Your right, they are very nice!
Let us know how you make out. Send some pics of your setup.....
Dan
The controllers are new so there are not a ton of them around. Your right, they are very nice!
Let us know how you make out. Send some pics of your setup.....
Dan
12-22-2005, 05:02 PM
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You can buy 30 to 40 amp 12V relays for about 10 bucks....Also its a little easier to understand when you refer to "+12V" and "ground" when referring to the relay connections for future reference. 
I wouldnt worry about having to energize the noids in uninterupted 30 second bursts....honestly, you will never energize them anywhere near that length.
I wouldnt worry about having to energize the noids in uninterupted 30 second bursts....honestly, you will never energize them anywhere near that length.
