Could some one help me out (Spark Plug Issue)
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From: Newport News, VA
Could some one help me out (Spark Plug Issue) Okay, I'm sure this has been beat to the ground, and I apologize for this question, but I need some opinions.
Got the nitrous installed (thanks Ricky, and Robert for answering those questions). The car ran fine, then I put TR6's in the thing and noticed it idling rough, and has a bit of hesitation from take off. I then replaced the wires thinking that was the issue, but it wasn't. Pulled the wires and plugs again to check the gap and make sure the plug wires were okay, and they were. It runs great after take off (crusing), but I can't take it!!! I hear things rattling now when I'm setting at a light!
I've searched here and found people talking about TR6ix plugs and how it has taken care of there idling, hesitation, and sputtering issues after going to a colder plug.
My question is: Has this worked for most people in my shoes? The plugs are about $60, and I just spent $20 in the regular TR6. I don't mind spending the money, but just wanted to know if it has helped, and if there is any other option out there. Also, the plugs are gaped at 35; if I re-gaped them to 40 does anyone think that would resolve the issue.
Oh, and by the way, I haven't sprayed yet, but I really want to!!
I did check the engine bay for a light show last night, but didn't see anything.
Got the nitrous installed (thanks Ricky, and Robert for answering those questions). The car ran fine, then I put TR6's in the thing and noticed it idling rough, and has a bit of hesitation from take off. I then replaced the wires thinking that was the issue, but it wasn't. Pulled the wires and plugs again to check the gap and make sure the plug wires were okay, and they were. It runs great after take off (crusing), but I can't take it!!! I hear things rattling now when I'm setting at a light!
I've searched here and found people talking about TR6ix plugs and how it has taken care of there idling, hesitation, and sputtering issues after going to a colder plug.
My question is: Has this worked for most people in my shoes? The plugs are about $60, and I just spent $20 in the regular TR6. I don't mind spending the money, but just wanted to know if it has helped, and if there is any other option out there. Also, the plugs are gaped at 35; if I re-gaped them to 40 does anyone think that would resolve the issue.
Oh, and by the way, I haven't sprayed yet, but I really want to!!
I did check the engine bay for a light show last night, but didn't see anything.
Last edited by corvettelover; Dec 30, 2005 at 06:47 AM.
Looks like you're running a 75 shot according to your posts. So yes you can safely open the gap up on the plugs.That small of shot won't kill your spark. Try opening in the 38 to 40 range it'll light the cylinder better for N.A.
Hawk
Hawk
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Thanks for the reply, but actually I'm going to start out with a 50 shot, and then 75 shot, and then.....and then. I figured I'd start small to get use to it and work my way up. I'd like to have a median where I can have the best of both worlds...if possible.
A colder plug tends to fuel foul very easily. It happens most in winter with the lower temps and the big cold-start enrichment that drowns the plug on first start. Once you have a misfire the O2 sees extra oxygen in the exhaust, the positive fuel correction begins, and this makes the situation worsen.
You could work on this in the tune and solve the problem.
You could just run hotter plugs in winter if you're not spraying.
Another option is to use a CTS-tricker to keep the plugs lean and clean.
Some cars have the problem and others do not. It's definately a tuning issue.
Indexing the plugs to use the ground strap to partially shield the center tip from the intake valve 'might' help a bit, but won't solve the problem if you're getting too much fuel.
You could work on this in the tune and solve the problem.
You could just run hotter plugs in winter if you're not spraying.
Another option is to use a CTS-tricker to keep the plugs lean and clean.
Some cars have the problem and others do not. It's definately a tuning issue.
Indexing the plugs to use the ground strap to partially shield the center tip from the intake valve 'might' help a bit, but won't solve the problem if you're getting too much fuel.
Originally Posted by corvettelover
Okay, thanks for the reply Hawk! If that doesn't work, I guess I'm going to get the TR6ix.
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re-gap the plugs back to 50 thousandths,, and remember that a colder plug is going to be more sensitive to cold weather and poor fuel ,also dont worry about closing up the gap it is a much over worried problem at power levels below 150h.p.remember these coil per cylinder designs dont have the same troubles as the single coil designs
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you can also safely spray 75 shot on stock plugs TR-5 is a pre gapped stock equivelent.trick is octane booster allways and premium fuel. have fun and spray it.your next investment should be a bottle heater and fuel pressure guage. without a heater your probably only around 700p.s.i. on the bottle rather than the optimum 950p.s.i.
Originally Posted by solocam
re-gap the plugs back to 50 thousandths,, and remember that a colder plug is going to be more sensitive to cold weather and poor fuel ,also dont worry about closing up the gap it is a much over worried problem at power levels below 150h.p.remember these coil per cylinder designs dont have the same troubles as the single coil designs
I call bullshit on running the TR6's at .050". Not recommended to run any plug over/under .010" from its factory set gap, which for TR6's is .035", at least for every set I have ever ran. If you need a gap larger than .045" than you need a different plug, same if you need to close it under .025".
I doubt that the issue your dealing with is from the plugs themselves, cold start enrichment or not. It sounds more like an install related issue. All else being the same as before the install...I would make sure the screw-on tips of the plugs are tight, use a pair of pliers to crank them down. I would make sure there is antiseize on the threaded portion of the plug only, none on the grounding strap or electrode/insulator. I would be sure to use dielectric grease on both ends of the spark plug wires. I would make sure that when I am connecting the wires to the plug there is one solid click, and two clicks going onto the coils. As many times as you might have checked, do it again, and dont be surprised if you find when your finished that its running fine. I have gone over this numerous times and its always the case, one wires not seated all the way, or a loose cap on the plugs. Embarrassing as it is, and probably the reason after doing it no one posts back up that was their problem, but seriously, try it.
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From: Cooper City, FL
Originally Posted by solocam
you can also safely spray 75 shot on stock plugs TR-5 is a pre gapped stock equivelent.trick is octane booster allways and premium fuel. have fun and spray it.your next investment should be a bottle heater and fuel pressure guage. without a heater your probably only around 700p.s.i. on the bottle rather than the optimum 950p.s.i.
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
I see a few things here. Much good info and some mis-leading.
first lets cover die electric grease. DO NOT use to much! I can not even count how many times a customer has brought me their car after doing plugs and/or wires and the boot is full of grease. this keeps the spark from flying and you have a dead hole
Usually We can just clean up the plugs and wires and all is well. You only want grease where the boot meet the porcilin.
Next would be broken plugs. I would think this case he would have seen a broken one by now but many times I see the crack right at the base shorting out.
Plug wires sitting on the headers. I do not care what heat the wires are rated at if you let the boot or any area lay on the headers you are done! Huge plug wires are useless and un needed BTW.
Plugs can be argued to the other side of the universe and back. I will say use regular copper plug's or sufer melted plugs The Platnum and Iridium plugs were made to last a long time under stock conditions...nothing more
I would toss a scanner on it and find out what cylinders are misfiring and go from there
Good luck!
first lets cover die electric grease. DO NOT use to much! I can not even count how many times a customer has brought me their car after doing plugs and/or wires and the boot is full of grease. this keeps the spark from flying and you have a dead hole
Usually We can just clean up the plugs and wires and all is well. You only want grease where the boot meet the porcilin.Next would be broken plugs. I would think this case he would have seen a broken one by now but many times I see the crack right at the base shorting out.
Plug wires sitting on the headers. I do not care what heat the wires are rated at if you let the boot or any area lay on the headers you are done! Huge plug wires are useless and un needed BTW.
Plugs can be argued to the other side of the universe and back. I will say use regular copper plug's or sufer melted plugs
The Platnum and Iridium plugs were made to last a long time under stock conditions...nothing more I would toss a scanner on it and find out what cylinders are misfiring and go from there
Good luck!
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Thanks for all the replys. Well I took the plugs out again today, gapped them at .040 and it seemed to idle alot better (just a very slight mis) but when I put it in gear it, it still hesitated. I checked the plugs...not cracked, and tips are screwed on tight. Plug wires are also okay (not hitting the headers). I'm so frustrated right now!!!! I'm going to buy a set of TR55 and put them in and see how it runs. The car ran great before I changed the plugs, so I'm pretty sure that's what it is. I searched this forum and found several people state thay had the same issue as me, but after changing to the TR6ix the issue went away.
Happy New Years everyone!!! Guess I'll get started on the drinks
Happy New Years everyone!!! Guess I'll get started on the drinks