Ok im wrong about dry kits being bad as a told Robert56 a while back. I complained about the 5177 kit as a bad kit because of my results, but there are variables that im about to tell you that I have mentioned before on here but in other posts. I installed the 3800rpm converter the same time I installed the 5177 stock kit. I blamed the poor performance on the 5177 kit and didn't mention the converter. I bought AUTOTAP and logged some WOT runs. Im only getting 19-22 degrees of advance at WOT normally aspirated. THAT IS BAD right? I heard it was because the stock pcm is pulling timing due to the convertor. Ive also heard that this can be fixed by "DELETING" "torque management"

Ive asked this question before, but got little or no advice. From the experience of all the people here, I haven't had much luck asking for help. This is frustrating. Come on guys, im one of you and am begging for help for I am a beginner at this stuff. I almost turned to the dark side and almost ordered a wet kit, but from what im reading a dry kit will work just as good if my pcm is tuned correctly.

 

Are you logging knock retard or just total timing? My guess would be you're getting KR from something,a banging y-pipe, sometimes a converter, 98's are notorious for false knock problems.Log some KR and see what it shows.

Get the car running right on motor first, then worry about the spray.. a couple things other things I would do are, cleaning the maf and putting the stock ends back on, putting in a catch can or diff pcv system, change fuel filter, verify fuel pressure, TR6 plugs, seafoam, all that basic tuneup junk


How big of a shot are you running?
Dry is the way to go imho for moderate sized shots.

 

I have no idea yet what kind of performance you're getting or problems you're having.

Got a wide-band?
pics of the install?

 

Is that ET in your sig on the spray? Do you have a bottle heater?

 

Sound like a tune is in order N/A as stated above and then maybe just retarding the timing for the N20.

 

Thanks guys, I logged KR and none was evident during the whole NA WOT runs. Fresh fuel filter always, 59psi of fuel pressure always at the rail, ( I have the inline 255lph fuel pump from my old lt1 kit)
The et is with a stock exhaust system with cats. 12.95 something NA and 12.15 something with 150 nos jets. Twin .036-.038 jets, I forgot which. I run NGK TR6 plugs gapped to about .038". (they are hard to find here) All I know is that my car only gained .7 tenths and 5-6mph with the 5177 and my old lt1 kit gained over a second, and 11mph. I have not logged the n2o runs, but yes im trying to get the NA tune good before I spray. No bottle heater but, I make sure its warm by feel only. Since then is stated I have a free flow headers and exhaust system, its faster, but still feels like it slows down towards the end of the track. (no times or mph yet) I still think 19 degrees is not enough for a NA run.

 

Dry shot through the MAF?
Did you de-screen the MAF?

 

You would be surprised on how much diff a heater will make. here in the NW the bottle usually sits at about 600/700 psi, that's to low. Get that psi upto 950psi min and try for 1050psi, as this is a good proven psi for the 5177 and quite a few run this psi and knock 1 sec plus off with a 100rwhp shot.

Also, dual .036's are 115hp at the crank, or a real world 97.75rwhp.
dual .038's are 125hp at the crank, or real world 106rwhp.

So in conclusion, you state you are running a 150 shot, not with these jets, and that combined with a low bottle pressure, I believe, is likely your problem. Jet that bad boy up and get a heater, and then you'll see the diff. Your timing is fine for the spray, imo, and that is what I run 22*. Hope this helps getting you started on your diagnostics.
Robert

 

The bottle heater has to be one of your main problems. Do you have a pressure gauge on the bottle? Just going by how the bottle feels to the touch isn't enough.

I ran the 5177 with 150 jets without a heater when I first got the kit, I only picked up 6-7 mph. After the heater, at least 10mph.

 

Yeah I think you're doing fine for a ~100 shot and unknown pressure. Get that pressure up and you'll be happy

I feel like a mr-know-it-all asking all those questions about everyones setup, but I have helped plenty of locals who just use nitrous as a bandaid on a car that doesn't run right in the first place..

 

Also check you nitrous inlet filter on the fitting. It might be restricing flow a bit...
If the bottle is not very warm to the touch its too cold!

Dan

 

cool! Im shopping for a heater and a guage tonight. Thanks for the input, it is very appreciated. Im writing all this down. Since I didn't remember the exact sizes, I just ran down to the car and removed the jets from the car and actually read the jet sizes that I have. I gave you all wrong info. I have a pairs of .032"s, .038"s and .044"s. The times were with the .044" jets and a descreened MAF. sorry Robert and everyone to give bad information. I thought they were supposed to be 100-125-and 150hp levels. What would be a good jet size to try in my situation? I do understand that I need to know the exact pressures and need a heater now. When the track opens up I will log runs with a heated bottle and see what happens. Do you think the stock 5177 stainless screen type filter may not be adequate for 150 crank hp levels? Thanks for the tips everyone! I really feel stupid right now. I cant believe I didn't think of the basics such as nitrous pressures, restrictions and correct jet sizes. I heard that 20-25 degrees of advance was good with nitrous and thanks Rob for the tip! My problem was that I am only getting 19 degrees without nitrous. I got autotap after my last nitrous run so, I have not logged any runs on nitrous because I am somewhat paranoid about what will happen to the motor since I have a new exhaust system and stuff. I don't want to buy a new motor and have been too busy or lazy to learn more about this so I could make and educated choice. What happens to the timing when I spray through the MAF? I have no idea, I have not tried it yet. Should I do it and log it or do you have a basic idea on what happens if I do this. Any more input is appreciated! Im hungry for more! Thanks alot guys! larry

 

I'll agree with the other posters, you are not getting good enough pressure to get a good hit. The dry kits really like to be 1000+ psi. I always knocked a full second off of my ET with the 100 rwhp shot on my A4 '98.

 

No need to opoligize, as i get things mixed up all the time and someone corrects me. Just get a baseline hp, then jet to the level you want. If you want a specific rwhp level let me know and I will give the basic size for this area, as all cars vary a bit. Your timing can be controlled with your tune, on a dry hit only. In my web is a write up for pulling timing only while spraying, if needed.
Robert