Question on Dual stage
Question on Dual stage With my current setup in my sig., would it be good to install a small wet kit as a second stage. I was looking at Nitrous Daves DynoTune wet kit, and it seems pretty simple and one of the cheaper priced kits around. I would also put the wet kit on a window switch for use in more of the top end. Any info on this would help. Anyone have a NOS 5177 as a 1st dry stage and then a wet 2nd stage?
"Nitrous Daves DynoTune wet kit" Maybe you know more than we do - but it does does have a nice ring to it 
To answer your question our kit would work well and for $369 the price is killer! Also note the price INCLUDES the window switch - it is the best switch on the market for the price and includes a dual stage window switch, built in TPS and multi gear lockout. Here are the details:
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=209
Dean
To answer your question our kit would work well and for $369 the price is killer! Also note the price INCLUDES the window switch - it is the best switch on the market for the price and includes a dual stage window switch, built in TPS and multi gear lockout. Here are the details:
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=209
Dean
Hey you got it wrong! Its the DynoTune Dual Dry, Nitro Dave Wet Plate Kits
Pulling the seat, wiring the bottle stuff (picking up my C-5 Embroideried Bottle Blanket today) and putting the Plate and dry nozzles in today and tomorrow.
Cheers
Beer
Pulling the seat, wiring the bottle stuff (picking up my C-5 Embroideried Bottle Blanket today) and putting the Plate and dry nozzles in today and tomorrow.
Cheers
Beer
Originally Posted by Robert56
Good idea, yes, imo. By the way Nitro Dave is seperate from Dyno Tune, diff companys.
Robert
Robert
i was just talking to someone about my future setup, and he said that i might have problems running both of these kits at the same time? is this true, do i have to turn the dry kit off to use the second stage wet kit? or can i just spray the F*** out of it with both kits
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I am putting in a two stage, the Dry being a DynoTune, and the Wet being Nitro Dave's LS1 Plate. I plan on running each seperately (for testing purposes) then combining them into a safe dual shot, hopefully 75-100 dry at 3000rpm or so, and then having Daves plate kick in at with a 50-75 shot 4000rpm or so, fuel pump and tune permitting. Likely end up at a combined 150.
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Verdad Gallardo that sounds about what i want to do, except for a combined 200 or so. either 100/100 or 125 dry/75 wet,......etc..... any way i can think of to get it to run smooth and fast!!!! thanks for the info.
Nice read. I was confused. LOL Like Beer statded. You can run a dry for the first stage and wet for the second. Its all in the tunning. Or you can go all wet. let me know if you need any help.,
Dave
Dave
What would happen if you ran a 75 dry on the maf for stage one and add 125 wet with a fuel jet alittle on the fat side. Could you compensate for the abundance of dry nitrous with the second stage or not. what if you didn't wanna spray the maf, I have LS1 edit, could I tune a fat mix say 12:1 and not spray the maf. I'm a firm believer in that going to fat can be just as dangerous as going to lean. I was told by a very good source, that alot of the reason's that LT1's broke ring lans was to fat of jetting. Its alot harder to compress liquid fuel then fuel vapor. i believe this is the difference in some one breaking a piston (too rich), as compared to melting a piston (too lean).
Originally Posted by MPFD
I was told by a very good source, that alot of the reason's that LT1's broke ring lans was to fat of jetting. Its alot harder to compress liquid fuel then fuel vapor. i believe this is the difference in some one breaking a piston (too rich), as compared to melting a piston (too lean).
Liquids can not be compressed. (Whole thing about hydraulics)
Originally Posted by AgFormula02
Liquids can not be compressed. (Whole thing about hydraulics)
Well thats what he is saying, that he heard that the LT1's break the ring lands because some ppl run them overly rich, thus having puddled fuel and the inability to compress the fuel creates a pressure point on the piston which finds the weakest spot and cracks it off.
However, I would think that would be really hard to run that damn rich, and normally excessive fuel washes the cylinders, that is, runs paast the rings, wiping the oil off the cylinder and allows the rings to scuff the walls. Only reason I have seen the ringland s break off is excessive pressure, created from trying to stuff too much in or having too much timing.
thanks, cat3. That was what I am saying. But what about when using a nozzle and fuel falls out of suspension, some companies use fatter jetting in their NO2 calculaters then others.