Self Contained Nitrous Controller Box w/ FJO Mini-Controller
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
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Self Contained Nitrous Controller Box w/ FJO Mini-Controller Im new to this forum and for the nitrous discussion since the Mustang boards really lack on n2o talk so I thought I could add to the mix.
Anyways, I just got finished with my all-in-one nitrous system controller. I used a "project box" that I found at my local electronics supply store and got to work with keeping things simple.
The FJO Racing mini-controller (which you folks seem to know real well) is the smaller box mounted on the outside, the currently unused plug is for the progressive control over the solenoids. The controller is held in place by 3M Body Tape.
Fuse block for the purge, bottle blanket and activation switch and power distribution block to simplify 3-way wiring within the activation circuit. These units are held down by velcro. :p I seem to think it will hold quite well, I only use the nitrous on the strip so I dont have to worry about the daily driving durability of using velcro.
This is the wiring diagram I followed to make this little project box possible.
Oh, and I thought this might amuse a few of ya.
-Dan
Anyways, I just got finished with my all-in-one nitrous system controller. I used a "project box" that I found at my local electronics supply store and got to work with keeping things simple.
The FJO Racing mini-controller (which you folks seem to know real well) is the smaller box mounted on the outside, the currently unused plug is for the progressive control over the solenoids. The controller is held in place by 3M Body Tape.
Fuse block for the purge, bottle blanket and activation switch and power distribution block to simplify 3-way wiring within the activation circuit. These units are held down by velcro. :p I seem to think it will hold quite well, I only use the nitrous on the strip so I dont have to worry about the daily driving durability of using velcro.
This is the wiring diagram I followed to make this little project box possible.
Oh, and I thought this might amuse a few of ya.
-Dan
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 42
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The plastic box (cost me $6 btw) was had from San Mateo Electrical Supply here in the San Francisco Gay Area. Its the best place for anything electrical related; I can find stuff here that Frys, OSH, or Radio Shack just dont have.
-Dan
-Dan
Last edited by cleveland; Mar 28, 2006 at 01:33 PM.
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A good source for plastic electronic enclosures is www.polycase.com they have online ordering and a good selection.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 42
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hehe, NOS drink isnt my favorite, it was just around and I bought it more as a novelty item I can keep around my desk. I love my Rockstar. 
the box is likely to be mounted just to the right of the center console stack. I'll post a pic after it finally goes in tomorrow.
its nice to be around folks that have more knowledge about n2o than myself for once I just hope ya dont mind me too much when I post stuff related to my Slostang.
-Dan
the box is likely to be mounted just to the right of the center console stack. I'll post a pic after it finally goes in tomorrow.
its nice to be around folks that have more knowledge about n2o than myself for once I just hope ya dont mind me too much when I post stuff related to my Slostang.
-Dan
Thread Starter
Teching In
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alright, I dont know if its wise to tap-a-fuse when Im trying to power the main 12v line (to the fuse block seen above) that will distribute power to a purge solenoid (15 amp fuse loaded for this), an activation switch for the nitrous and fuel solenoids (5 amp fuse loaded for this combo), an activation switch for the bottle heater (25 amp fuse loaded for this) AND the FJO mini-controller. I have a 12 guage wire currently feeding all this.
I just dont understand why I should use a switched source to power this "control box" instead of running directly off the battery. In the event that the ignition is killed (for whatever reason) and the solenoids still spray I dont see any damage coming from it besides some nitrous and fuel just being wasted.
Any help is appreciated.
-Dan
I just dont understand why I should use a switched source to power this "control box" instead of running directly off the battery. In the event that the ignition is killed (for whatever reason) and the solenoids still spray I dont see any damage coming from it besides some nitrous and fuel just being wasted.
Any help is appreciated.
-Dan
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Can anybody chime in on my above question?
Here's some new stuff too...
I just got done with my dual purge line install.
And a video clip... http://snt-systems.com/temp/mustang/purge.avi
And later that night...
I finally got done with cleaning things up just a bit. Im very pleased with the result when compared to earlier this month. If it doesnt rain in the morning I should be able to finish up the wiring minus the tach signal tap.
-Dan
Here's some new stuff too...
I just got done with my dual purge line install.
And a video clip... http://snt-systems.com/temp/mustang/purge.avi
And later that night...
I finally got done with cleaning things up just a bit. Im very pleased with the result when compared to earlier this month. If it doesnt rain in the morning I should be able to finish up the wiring minus the tach signal tap.
-Dan
Last edited by cleveland; Mar 30, 2006 at 04:20 AM.
Thread Starter
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Alright, the rain eventually stopped so I got right to work and everything is now configured correctly. The Trottle Position Sensor operates correctly at and near WOT. The RPM window also turns on at my set 3000rpm.
This is how I did it, reading a tach signal that is. Each Coil-on-Plug Driver contains 2 wires, to locate which wire is the rpm signal rather than the 12v source a 12v test light or multimeter should be used on each contact point. The red wire is the +12v and the green is the rpm signal.
I cut and stripped the green wire on cylinder # 4 on the passengerside and soldered in my tap "Y" connector to feed my mini-controller. I used a simple female/male bullet connector and my tach signal sensor wire is complete. No Tach Adapter needed thanks to my FJO software configurable nitrous mini-controller. I just set my rpm multiplier to "2".
I still need to check the solenoids for proper operation (spray) after the wires are fully connected but for now everything is operational and trouble free. I love it!
-Dan
This is how I did it, reading a tach signal that is. Each Coil-on-Plug Driver contains 2 wires, to locate which wire is the rpm signal rather than the 12v source a 12v test light or multimeter should be used on each contact point. The red wire is the +12v and the green is the rpm signal.
I cut and stripped the green wire on cylinder # 4 on the passengerside and soldered in my tap "Y" connector to feed my mini-controller. I used a simple female/male bullet connector and my tach signal sensor wire is complete. No Tach Adapter needed thanks to my FJO software configurable nitrous mini-controller. I just set my rpm multiplier to "2".
I still need to check the solenoids for proper operation (spray) after the wires are fully connected but for now everything is operational and trouble free. I love it!
-Dan
Originally Posted by cleveland
here ya go, older pics but the distribution block hasnt changed... the block feeds the n2o and fuel pressure gauges mounted on the hood.
-Dan
-Dan
