CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Basically should be setup to arm the nitrous....press the TBrake button which activates the Harlan 2Step, and disables the Nitrous until the TBrake is released, then the H2S is off and Nitrous is on. I compiled this from Devon (LoudmouthLS1), Harlan, NXRicky and then me....kind of hard to explain, but looking at Harlans hand drawn instruction, while cross referencing NXRicky's diagram using the info Devon gave me.




I hope this is right, if not, please feel free to either fix it, or tell what wire to route where. FWIW, my transbrake noid is grounded, and requires the switch to provide 12V. The H2S has white wire, gray wire (Activation Inputs) and a yellow wire (Relay Output).
As described in the instructions:
Activation Inputs: 2 modes of input, On/Off or Latched Operation.
On/Off-
White wire (Arming Switch) Momentary switch to ground. Normally Open, Close switch to active.
Gray Wire: Connect to ground or parallel with white wire.

Latched Operation:
White wire (Arming Switch) Momentary switch to ground. Normally Open, close switch to active.
Gray wire (Hold Switch) Clutch Pedal Switch, Foot Brake Switch, or Custom. Normally Closed to ground, open switch to active.

Relay Control Output:
Provides a switched ground whenever H2S is armed or active. This can be used to deactivate a nitrous system that normally uses a WOT Switch for activation of the nitrous.

So hopefully I have this sketch right.

Charlie

Technoman64

iTrader: (6)

The RED button is the t-brake activation correct?

I would want to make sure that the realy that is using the N.C(87a) terminal is mounted so that vibration can not effect its operation. The N.C. output is not held latched by the activation coil while in use. There is an internal spring but sometimes if the relay is subject to lots of vibration this will allow the contacts to bouce. Typically if you mount the relay in a vertical position it seems to help. Not sure how hard you are launching just thought I would express my thoughts.

Does the yellow wire from the H2S provide a ground signal to the Nitrous relay? I am not familiar with the H2S so this may be a stupid question.

I would be tempted to use a t-brake switch that has a N.C., Common, and N.O. contacts and try to remove the second relay from the system.

From what I understand you want to hit the t-brake button, go to WOT and when the t-brake buton is released the 2-step turns off and the nitrous hits.

If you used a differant t-brake switch could you run +12v from the arming switch to the common on the t-brake switch, go from the N.O. terminal to the t-brake solenoid, and go from the N.C. to the wide open throttle switch. Then eliminate the second relay. This could effect the t-brake operation if you are using when you clean off the tires though.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Thats almost all duetsche to me Got a PN or maker of the type TBrake switch your refering to?

BMN

got the directions for the harlen 2step?

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Yep, even posted them above! Well except the plug in the coil pack jumpers, and setting of the RPM on. The only three wires to hook up are the gray, white and yellow as typed above. I will be scanning them later and adding to the wiring stickie as well as a heater or two instructions.

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

How is the Harlan getting power to work? Is power suppose to be on the white wire? to make it work?
IF so.
top relay move switch 87a abd 30.
or switch 87a and 30 and put white wire on trans noid wire.

Sorry I do not have have book infront of me.

Ricky

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Here are the instructions for the Harlan 2Step (1st generation since he is working on a new model). There are the white, gray and yellow wires, and then two set of M/F coil pack connectors (unplug stock coil packs, and put the jumper in one Male and one female side, which sends the signal for RPM). Then the rest is as posted. Please let me know if its best to use a switch as Techno was talking about, a couple relays or what.
My end goal is when I push the TBrake (momentary) switch, that the nitrous will be Inactive on standby, and the H2Step will be active. Thus release the TBrake and the H2Step cuts off allowing the engine to gain full rpm, and the nitrous circuit is complete and spray the hell out of it I may do like Ricky mentioned and add the Line-Lock into the mix as well but not sure, probably keep it on a separate circuit and switch.

Thanks
Charlie

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Dude, that diagram confused the **** out of me! I just like to keep it simple, I have an extra relay than what you have in there, but it works and it's simple. I have no idea if that will work, but you can hook it up and then test it using a test light. Just disconnect the noids from the relay and if you have a window switch as the ground for the relay disconnect that and ground it, turn on arming switch, hold down wot switch and have the test light on the prong that the noids go too, if ur gettin power then go and hit the t-brake button, if power goes away, it should be working. Next is to check and see if 2 step works, so shut the n20 arming switch and get in her and start her up, put her in neutral and floor it and make sure she goes past where ur 2 step is set, if she revs with no problems and 2 step is not activated then put her in 1st and press the tbrake button and floor it, see if the 2 step works, if it doesn't work, then something isn't working in that setup, if it works, great and everything should be fine.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Hahaha I see I confused more than just myself

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

Ok if the white wire needs ground then another relay or a different type of switch is needed. I will review my notes tomorrow. For now it needs tweeking.
Ricky

-Joseph-

iTrader: (12)

I tend to agree that another relay is needed, one for each accs. (N20, H2S, TB) would be easiest to wire and diagnose when problems arise.

BTW there are a few wrong things in the diagram, it would take me an hour to fix it in a diagram, but for one, nothing is grounding "white" wire that goes into relay "A" from the H2S. It also appears that the WOT switch is along for the ride, don't -think- its functional as it is.

Here's what I would do, trying to make it the least complicated I can. (off the top of my head, I havn't looked at my notes lately):

Relay "A" - To supply TBrake with 12v

Relay "B" - Provide grounding path for H2S

Relay "C" - Provide N20 with 12v

Wire Relay A + B in parallel: pin 86 from momentary TBrake switch (12v), 85 to ground

Wire Relay A to Transbrake solenoid: Pin 87 12v, Pin 30 to transbrake solenoid

Wire Relay B to ground H2S when activated: white to pin 87, ground pin 30

Wire Relay A pin 87a to Relay C (N20) pin 86, WOT switch to pin 85 as "pass through" to ground, or RPM window switch yellow wire. Don't need yellow H2S wire when using pin 87a on Relay A to turn on N20 relay. When transbrake and H2S are "on", the N20 will be off.

There's prob somewhere better to put the WOT switch, but with a master arm switch it prob don't matter much. I would prob put the master arm switch before the Tbrake momentary switch.

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

Ok lets step back a moment, the need for the 2 step is what.?
To control rev limiter or what?
Went to draw this and one drawing is a waste no need to deal with the nitrous and other no need for the 2 step. I aaaammmmm so confusedddddddddd. lol


Ricky

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

The 2 step is to keep ur launch rpm constant on the tbrake, I really only use it on a shitty track to try and not hit the tires as hard, cuz if I keep the rpm that i'm sittin at on the tbrake down, the converter doesn't flash as high when I let off the tbrake and the nitrous hits, but if the track is good, I just go right off the top of the converter!

FastBlackTA

iTrader: (7)

Here is a shitty diagram I made for a window switch (bored in hotel on a business trip and i have nothing to do lol).
I will make one up for your Two Step.

Technoman64

iTrader: (6)

Here is the the way I came up to make it all work with the least amount of components. My thinking is the more parts the more posible failure points to contend with. The Harlan 2-step must have a Ground signal for activation. I did the wiring so it provides ground activation for the t-brake solenoid + 2-step when the Trans Brake Switch is ON. When the Trans Brake switch is OFF it provides a Ground to the Wide Open Throttle switch, which provides a ground for the nitrous relay. Please see pdf file

http://dennisc99.home.mchsi.com/WiringDiagram.pdf

Not sure how to post the actual pdf file on here but there is the link.

The only thing that could cause problems is the flyback voltage from the t-brake solenoid when it turns off. A noise suppression diode (1N-4005 or P6KE27CA)across the leads of the t-brake solenoid would stop the flyback voltage.

If you want I can find a suitable t-brake switch. I believe we have some at work. I need to check to make sure though. Basically you need a momentary contact switch with three termainals. A C(common), N.C. (normally closed, this terminal connected to the Common terminal when switch is OFF), N.O. (normally open, this terminal is connected to the Common when switch is ON).

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

Technoman64 what if the transbrake noid only has a hot wire and gets its ground thro the transmission case.
I see another drawing on its way to the stick board.

Anyway save your PDF as to a jpeg insted, then post up just like a picture.

Ricky

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Yep, my Transbrake uses a hot switch wire. The noid is always grounded to the body. So when I hit the momentary switch it sends 12v down to the noid to activate the coil. I appreciate the drawing and will save it, and then post it in the wiring for those with the opposite TB I have.

Technoman64

iTrader: (6)

Sorry I did not realize that your TransBrake solenoid was configured this way. Sounds like there is already another diagram headed your way.
Hopefully I can get my new clutch/flywheel installed this weekend so I can go play at the track also.